I am building an LS/Vtec motor to replce the LS in my turbo teg.

I am starting with a B18B stock bottom that I will be rebuilding to use a set of Eagle LS rods and SRP 81.5mm 9:1 slugs that I have.

I bought a B16 head for $400. Freshly remanned by a machine shop, has ITR springs and retianers, GSR cams.

I want to use the head to its potential , so I am thinking an 8500 rpm rev limit / fuel cut is in order.

I am wondering how reliable the bottom end will be at that RPM. It seems like alot of people rev their stock B18B bottoms to 8k so I am under the impression that with eagle rods and a proper rebuild 8.5k would be fine .... but I thought I would get a few second opinions.

~450whp goal for this motor

 

Use spark cut rather than fuel, you don't want to go lean at 8500 when the fuel cut kicks in. Use Crome or Neptune or Hondata, set the rev limit to 8500 when tuned.

Oh and you will destroy the engine without a doubt, b18a/b blocks don't have a girdle and the stroke is 2nd largest only to a b20. You need a block girdle preferably 5 bolt. You should also get aftermarket rods for the block, LS rods are the thinnest.

If you want to avoid all this then stick with the stock 6800 redline. Just because you have the MAADDD VTAAK in the head you need it in the block too.

Also LS oil pumps are not designed to rev that high its out of the efficiency range. Might want a GSR or ITR oil pump and water pump. I dont know if you can interchange them but I think that B series oil pumps and water pumps share the same bolt pattern. Somebody chime in and correct me if I'm worng.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MotorMouth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[...]the stroke is 2nd largest only to a b20.</TD></TR></TABLE>
BS. The B20B and B20Z share the exact same 89.00 mm stroke as the B18A and B18B.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MotorMouth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need a block girdle preferably 5 bolt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lot's of people rev LS'es higher without girdles to no ill effect.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MotorMouth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should also get aftermarket rods for the block, LS rods are the thinnest.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Read his post, won't you.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MotorMouth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want to avoid all this then stick with the stock 6800 redline.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Unless he's running a GT25 peak power will be found higher than 6800 RPM's with a GSR-cammed PR3 head.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MotorMouth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also LS oil pumps are not designed to rev that high its out of the efficiency range. Might want a GSR or ITR oil pump and water pump.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree. I think B16A, B16B and B17A also will work, but somebody will have to confirm.

 

Perhaps he's talking about the B20A with it's 95 mm stroke?


Why he's talking about SL rods being weak, when its already mentioned he's running eagle rods, though...


One important detail, make sure you are using ARP rod bolts, that seems to be the biggest item.

Look over on nonvtec.com and you will find LOTS of people running crower 404s and spinning the motors to 8000 rpm. ARP rod bolts seem to keep things alive.


I'll be going that route myself, stock rods, P30 pistons, arp bolts, 404s, staying non-vtec for now.

 

Eagle rods (including ARP rod bolts)
ITR water pump
GSR/ITR (all Vtec the same) oil pump
Vtec timing belt

No girdle. I don't have the $$$ for a girdle + line hone after install. It is my understanding that a girdle is really not necessary under 9k rpms.

I am debating the benefits of having the crank micro polished and balanced ... but don't really want to spend the money if I don't NEED to.

Really looking for responces from others that have built LS/Vtecs and reved them this high or higher.

 

You should check out the All-Motor Forum they have a million people with LSV's and you can get all your answeres there

 

Ls vtec built with no gridle is good to 9,500. 10,000 once in a while.

I have had lots of luck with OEM ls motors going to 9k turboed making over 300whp.

dont be scared..lol just get:
SPRING AND RETAINER***
vtec oil pump,
gsr water pump and timing belt.
lighten flywheel will help you out a lot too..

 

i rev my lsv to 8.8k sometimes and all i used was arp rod bolts...however the entire stock rotating asembly was balanced to spec... you can use a gsr girdle. but i cant remember what you need to fit....


you have forged units and they should be with in spec...and honda cranks are one of the most balanced cranks in the free world...so 8-10 it will be fine to 10k but always bouble check...no matter what...100 bucks can save you $$$$

 

anybody knows how much $$$ for engine balance?

$$$ for valve job?

$$$ rear main seal?

 

rear main seal in like 3.50 from the dealer or aftermarket installing it is what cost money.