ok i will try to give you guys the symptoms and describe the situation best i can and hopefully you guys can give me your insight...car is 90 exr stickshift.

symptoms:
-idles fine...but is a little low i guess at 600-700 rpm.
-car surges/jerks while in gear...any gear. start happening about 5-10 minutes after driving and becomes undriveable. up until the time it does happen the car feels like its choking/lagging. the part that puzzles me is once it goes undriveable if i restart the car real quickly the problem will go away for another 5 or so minutes but feels like its about to happen(by that i mean car feels different and laggy). but if i put it into neutral and hold a rpm it does it no problem... so this is what made me think it could be my tranny but if it was that then why does if fix temporarily after restart???
-surges and jerks so much that even you can even hear the tires slightly squeal at times so it definately cant be good for the car.

the cars fuel pump was replaced 2 or so months ago.. i changed the spark plugs and fuel filter because i think it was most likely a clogged fuel filter at first but that didnt fix the problem.

i've also replaced the o2 sensor with the bosch direct plug o2 sensor.... you guys dont think it could be the bosch o2 sensor causing my car to act like this??? my spark plugs also had a carbon coat on them indicating my car was running lean....i'm puzzled and frustrated. i hope its nothing major, please help me..

 

i was also wondering is it really bad for the tranny being in a high gear like 3 at 1000 rpm? like sometimes when i come around a corner i'm lazy so i just pop it into 3rd and the rpms will be about 1k or even slightly less when it engages...i'm thinkin i messed up the tranny bogging it down all the time.

 

is it throwing any cel's?

-check you idle air control valve, located on the intake manifold, make sure it isnt clogged

-check your idle adjustment screw located on the throttle body, either adjusted too far in or out will give a jerky/touchy throttle

-check map sensor , although if this was a problem you would have a check engine light...

 

no codes during the actual problem. but i have gotten a couple code 41's after 1-2 mintues of initial restart when its cold...it doesn't happen everyday, but thats apparently related to the o2 heater circuit and once you restart it goes away. some guy at on another forum had the same problem with bosch o2 sensor throwing a code 41 but his car doesn't do what mine does as so i think its urelated... also if it was related shouldn't the CEL come on during the surge/jerks/undriveability.

 

yeah, check the other things i mentioned

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by momstaxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, check the other things i mentioned</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah but but doesn't the idle air control valve and idle adjustment screw only related to the idle? my idle is steady and fine and if i rev and hold rpms in neutral it does that no problem...only when i'm in gear and applying load to the engine does it occur.

 

Don't know anything about manual trannys, but it sounds like a clutch problem. That or TCU, if there is one for manual tranny.

 

i had this problem with several of my cars in the past...it does infact affect the drivability having the adjustment screw too far out or in....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by momstaxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had this problem with several of my cars in the past...it does infact affect the drivability having the adjustment screw too far out or in....</TD></TR></TABLE>

how would i adjust this screw and know what position is should be in?

 

The idle screw is #1 in the illustration. Just remember how many turns you turn it, so you can return it to the same position if necessary. Click on link. the screw is right under a vacuum hose.

http://www.hondaautomotivepart...+BODY

 

Your problem has nothing to do with any of the things mentioned so far. Idle screws and IAC valves and clutches have nothing to do with jerking on acceleration. I suspect that you need to change the dist cap, rotor, and plug wires. Before you do that, unplug the TPS and go for a long enough drive to see if the problem still occurs. The TPS is the sensor connected to the throttle plate. This will set a code, but drive it anyway. Post your results and I'll tell you what to do from there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your problem has nothing to do with any of the things mentioned so far. Idle screws and IAC valves and clutches have nothing to do with jerking on acceleration. I suspect that you need to change the dist cap, rotor, and plug wires. Before you do that, unplug the TPS and go for a long enough drive to see if the problem still occurs. The TPS is the sensor connected to the throttle plate. This will set a code, but drive it anyway. Post your results and I'll tell you what to do from there. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ok i just did what you said and it went like this:

-started car let it warm up. got a CEL 41 after approx 2 minutes...so i restarted and it went away.
-drove for approx. 10 or so minutes until car starting jerking/surging/undriveable.
-turned car off popped open hood and disconnected TPS sensor
-turned car on CEL came on for the TPS and i drove for approx another 10 or so minutes before it started happening again...at first w/o the TPS if felt alot more smoother and like it wasn't gonna happen again.
-so i'm on a main road now with car unable to operate. i look like an a-hole in the process..
-so i restart once again and the car starts working normally and i get home the couple blocks

what should i do next??

 

That tells me your jerking is not related to sensor input because it does the same thing with the computer in default. I would change the cap, rotor, and plug wires.

 

ok will do as soon as i can. you think it could be the bosch o2 sensor?? its gotta be something like that because why does it reset itself when i restart and allow me 5-10 of driving.

 

When you unplug the TPS, the ECU runs in default and does not use input from the O2 sensor. You still had the problem when you unplugged the TPS. Your problem is either fuel or fire. I would do the tune up parts I listed first. They probably haven't been changed anyway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you unplug the TPS, the ECU runs in default and does not use input from the O2 sensor. You still had the problem when you unplugged the TPS. Your problem is either fuel or fire. I would do the tune up parts I listed first. They probably haven't been changed anyway. </TD></TR></TABLE>

not that i know of lol. and the cars been sittin in a garage before me driving it fora a couple years with no storage techniques used..that was the reason i had to replace the fuel pump because the crappy gas that was left in the tank rotted that thing.