blue/black smoke did compression check
My car is blowing out black smoke when I take off... so I did a compression check and it came out with Cyl 1 138 Cyl 2 134 Cyl 3 130 Cyl 4 115 what could be wrong?
Have you had your O2 sensor checked?
Temp sensor? Air, and coolant
Fuel pressure?
Here are a couple of things to check. Do these and come on back...
SH
Temp sensor? Air, and coolant
Fuel pressure?
Here are a couple of things to check. Do these and come on back...
SH
what motor do you have in your car?
smoke could be a couple of number of things but those numbers are not impressive at all expecialy cyl #4 its time for a re-build or a swap
smoke could be a couple of number of things but those numbers are not impressive at all expecialy cyl #4 its time for a re-build or a swap
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I have the same problem, stock d16a6 in a 89 CRX Si. Blue/black smoke when I leave the line that smells like total ***. My compression is fine, plugs were very black around the base (not the ceramic) but otherwise look fine.
Is it a timing issue?
edit: I forgot to say I have a brand new o2 sensor on it. My MPG jumped a few miles but thats about it, still got smoke.
Modified by stankin95CX at 8:56 AM 2/28/2006
Is it a timing issue?
edit: I forgot to say I have a brand new o2 sensor on it. My MPG jumped a few miles but thats about it, still got smoke.
Modified by stankin95CX at 8:56 AM 2/28/2006
i've been having the same prob lately,but my motor is a b2 in my beater.
it also burns a quart of oil a day
! sseing this now i'll check my timing and o2 sensor etc...
it also burns a quart of oil a day
! sseing this now i'll check my timing and o2 sensor etc...
I'm not buring any oil... it just unburned fuel, I'm gonna try running 89 octane fuel instead of 93 to try to fix it. I just got a new pr3 ecu and I"m gonna try that one if it doesnt work then I'll just chip one of them and see how that goes... I'll get back to you.
i dont think using 89 octane is going to fix it. I actually think that 93 octane is recommended for b16's.
"87. higher octanes are for engines with more compression... lower octanes actually burn easier. a higher octane wont burn as completely in our engines. although they do say if the engine developes a knock, a couple of tanks of 93 will help that....
from what i've read, you shouldn't use lower in octane in larger engines (like on of those huge *** 5.8l trans am v8's, for instance) because the compression of the cylinder can ignite the gas befoer the spark plugs go off.... thas why the higher octane gases are for larger engines..."
"running a higher octane isn't going to hurt anything. You won't gain anything unless you are running an aggressive setup. Some race cars gain HP from their octane fuel. But its HIGH octance, way past 100. So us being stock motors 87 or 93, its not going to matter, you won't gain anything. The 93 will burn slower and cleaner. 87 burns fast. 87 burns easier. Ford recommends 87 because thats the tune, the car is tuned to run on the low costing gas to help with fuel economy and such."
Just some things to think about!
"87. higher octanes are for engines with more compression... lower octanes actually burn easier. a higher octane wont burn as completely in our engines. although they do say if the engine developes a knock, a couple of tanks of 93 will help that....
from what i've read, you shouldn't use lower in octane in larger engines (like on of those huge *** 5.8l trans am v8's, for instance) because the compression of the cylinder can ignite the gas befoer the spark plugs go off.... thas why the higher octane gases are for larger engines..."
"running a higher octane isn't going to hurt anything. You won't gain anything unless you are running an aggressive setup. Some race cars gain HP from their octane fuel. But its HIGH octance, way past 100. So us being stock motors 87 or 93, its not going to matter, you won't gain anything. The 93 will burn slower and cleaner. 87 burns fast. 87 burns easier. Ford recommends 87 because thats the tune, the car is tuned to run on the low costing gas to help with fuel economy and such."
Just some things to think about!
Well I took out the ECU to reset it. The car just seems like there is something thats really wrong... when I first start out the car is really boggy... then once I go past 4k rpm the car is fine, what could be doing this? I could check the timing and all of the vacumm lines are hooked up properly. Does anybody have any idea what could be causing this problem I have to fix it soon I need my car to be running better. I found a post on Honda-tech that said to do an oil change but to put 3 qts of 10W30 in and 1 qt of ATF and that will clean the valve seals out and then change the oil after about 1000 miles. Has anybody ever heard of something like this?
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