Okay, I'm getting this jerking and hesitation when the car is in motion whenever I release the gas or step on it slightly. This occurs in any gear but not all the time. I am guessing that it happens whenever I go over uneven surfaces, since it will happen almost instantly after the uneven road. Could it be a faulty knock sensor? What are the tell tale signs of a distributor about to be broken?

 

CEL on?

 

Sometimes when I VTEC hard, the CEL turns on and stays on at the higher revs with no blinking. According to the previous owner, he says its the knock sensor which is sort of like a microphone picking up the engine noise. But the car does not jerk or hesitates at the higher revs. Only at slight throttle opening or closing does it happen.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garyc17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sometimes when I VTEC hard, the CEL turns on and stays on at the higher revs with no blinking. According to the previous owner, he says its the knock sensor which is sort of like a microphone picking up the engine noise.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Aside from any other current issues, that's not normal.

 

Okay, I'm about to replace the spark plugs. I hope these are the cause for they are one of the cheaper things to replace. Will get back to you guys on the results.

 

You should also check your ignition timing.

 

Okay, I have not encountered any hesitation since the plug change. But there is a new problem now. There is a CEL thrown which blinks really fast and from my estimate, it is about 6 to 7 blinks. This occurs during full throttle and the occurence is random regardless of speed and gear. The car also feels weaker from before after VTEC. About a week before, the power started dipping after my car alarm went mad and went off when I tried to crank the car. This caused a loud repeated ticking sound like that of a thermostat coming from the ECU which lasted for approximately 15 seconds. I don't think my Apexi Power FC is fried as I am still able to drive the car. Will the car still start and run if my Power FC was reset by the whacky alarm incident? I see some settings in the Power FC maps, but I am not sure if its the stock settings. Any Power FC user who can help me here?

 

Mine had a similar problem. It gave code 71 which is a random misfire on cylinder #1. I'm replacing the distributer, spark plug wires and igniter coil probably today.

This has happened 3 times all of which occured while I(or someone in the car) was using the video recorder on my phone. I have heard of phones causing check engine codes in the civic forum. Perhaps there is a weak point in the ignition system that is made more prominent by the interference from the phone?

To the original poster, I would find out exactly which code is being thrown and replace the parts discussed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garyc17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, I have not encountered any hesitation since the plug change. But there is a new problem now. There is a CEL thrown which blinks really fast and from my estimate, it is about 6 to 7 blinks. This occurs during full throttle and the occurence is random regardless of speed and gear. The car also feels weaker from before after VTEC. About a week before, the power started dipping after my car alarm went mad and went off when I tried to crank the car. This caused a loud repeated ticking sound like that of a thermostat coming from the ECU which lasted for approximately 15 seconds. I don't think my Apexi Power FC is fried as I am still able to drive the car. Will the car still start and run if my Power FC was reset by the whacky alarm incident? I see some settings in the Power FC maps, but I am not sure if its the stock settings. Any Power FC user who can help me here? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Check your TPS sensor.

 

What is the TPS voltage suppose to be at closed throttle and wide open throttle? What is the exact procedure and do I need a new gasket or some sealant after this check?

 

Oil levels OK?

 

Your topic title reminds me of an old girlfriend .

 

It vtecs so I guess the levels should be okay... The next cheaper repair job is probably going to be a distributor cap and rotor...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garyc17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the TPS voltage suppose to be at closed throttle and wide open throttle? What is the exact procedure and do I need a new gasket or some sealant after this check?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pretty sure its .5v closed and 4.5wot.

 

I used my Power FC and it turns out that the closed throttle position has a voltage of 0.83V and at full throttle it is 4.83V. I am afraid to mess with the TPS as it might mess up the Power FC settings which should be matched to the voltages. Or will it not mess up the settings?

 

Just test the TPS, it shouldnt do anything to the VAFC. Leave it(TPS) plugged in and test the voltage with the ignition on/ car off.

 

Shouldn't the reading obtained in the POWER FC be the same as that taken directly off the TPS sensor? I am getting a reading of 0.83V closed and 4.83V open in my Power FC hand held commander. I was hoping not to mess with the wire harness for the TPS sensor. Would I need a new TPS gasket or some sealant after adjusting it?

 

it should be at .45 at idle dunno about wot though. you might have to replace the gasket. when i took off my tps the gasket just ripped off.. if you can do it carefully without ripping the gasket i would just reuse it.

 

Will the gasket rip with just turning of the TPS sensor to get the desired voltage?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Splat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Aside from any other current issues, that's not normal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

THat is normal with a power FC. This car needs to be tuned BADLY. If you are getting Knock and jerking and hesitating you are just asking for engine damage.

 

Okay, this is what happened. After reading all the posts on TPS sensors, I went to check my TPS sensor using my FC handheld Commander. I went to Etc. followed by the sensor/sw check option. On closed throttle it displayed a 0.83V so I stepped on the throttle till the voltage was highlighted and it was 4.83V and there was this warning indicator in the same screen that lit. My check engine light also stayed lit for a few seconds. I am not sure if this is some calibration process. Anyway, I started the car and it started to feel like crap. Sluggish, hesitant and weak. I drove it some distance and decided to mess with it again. I checked under Settings and there was this screen I can't recall. It had the option of selecting "Normal", "Option1", "Option... till 5" It was on Option 4. So I placed it back to Normal and the car was back to normal again. Apparently the etc sensor checking messed with this somehow. I am not sure if my engine is messed up from that drive on Option 4. Also, there is a slight oil leak at my head gasket where the gearbox mates with the block. Am I in ****? As for the TPS voltage, should I mess with the TPS sensor to get 0.45v and 4.45v?

 

yes you should mess with it. move the tps around till you get a reading of .45 at closed throttle. now that oil leak, is it near the cam seal? because if it is, that is a common problem. just replace the cam seal with an aftermarket one and you'll be fine.

 

Nope, its not near the cam seal. Its where the head mates with the block which is near where the gearbox mates with the block.

 

Update, I have just adjusted the TPS sensor and I am getting a beautiful reading of 0.45V and 4.45V WOT. No more CEL flashing. The worse knock I get is 53 on my Apexi FC. The sad thing is the car does not perform faster. Will a TPS adjustment have an effect on performance? Ever since I got the check engine light, my power has been dipping. Now there is not check engine light, but the power is not restored. Also, my head gasket is leaking some engine oil. The leak is just above the engine model number on the block. Could it be my head gasket is blown from all that CEL lighting while driving?