needed honda mechanic in NC with idling and any info! thanks
hi i have an h23 in my 94 honda accord. my idle is acting crazy. it only shoots up when im stopped. driving its fine. and when the engine has been ran awhile its ok as well. any information is helpful ty
If you're in Greensboro go see Dave @ Monster Motorsports. Lemme know if you need the contact info.
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ill have to know exactly what its doing to be able to fix it...but its most likely a dirty IACV and an FITV that needs adjustment
i cant tell exactly what it does from your post, give a more detailed desc. of what happens
i cant tell exactly what it does from your post, give a more detailed desc. of what happens
well when i come to a stop it just rise for like 1 to 5 rpms up and down..... someone said idle control sensor.... mechanics been trying to give me the run around.... and most dont know about imports. also after engine is heated up it doesnt do this.... kinda odd thanks for replying to me
you need to adjust the FITV, its easy...
ill get a link...hold on
edit: thanks the 4th reich aka honda tech ***** for not letting me post an article off another site w/o changing the url....
anyways:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by me on another forum »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is a classic prelude idle problem, they bounce from anywhere btw 500-1200 rpm up to 2000-3000, repetitively. Its very annoying as you may know, but, it is easy to fix, here we go:
Take off the IACV, its the thing bolted to the front of the manifold, two 10mm bolts hold it on, just leave the coolant lines on the bottom, and get a little catch pan to sit over the area. It has two screens on it, take some carb cleaner, and spray as much of the black gunk on the screens out....try swishing some around inside of it, just make sure to drain as much as possible when you are done. BTW, this thing is NOT easily gotten inside of, so dont try that....
Take the FITV off, it is bolted with 3 10mm bolts, to the bottom of the throttle body, you may need to take the coolant lines off to get it out, but once you do, take the gold plate on the back of it off, and you will be looking at an adjustable thermostat. Turn it all the way down (tighten) you will have to push the middle thing in, or just use a special screwdriver setup. Either way, turn it all the way down, then back out 5.5 turns. This adjustment controls the amount that the valve flows at diff temperatures. I have found 5.5 to be the best area, but you are welcome to adjust otherwise, but i can assure you that 5.5 worked for me.
Now check all of your vacuum lines, making sure none of them have cracks or holes in them, you dont want leaks.
If you still have a problem you either have a bad IACV (which would trip a CEL) or you have a vacuum leak somewhere on the manifold</TD></TR></TABLE>
ill get a link...hold on
edit: thanks the 4th reich aka honda tech ***** for not letting me post an article off another site w/o changing the url....
anyways:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by me on another forum »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is a classic prelude idle problem, they bounce from anywhere btw 500-1200 rpm up to 2000-3000, repetitively. Its very annoying as you may know, but, it is easy to fix, here we go:
Take off the IACV, its the thing bolted to the front of the manifold, two 10mm bolts hold it on, just leave the coolant lines on the bottom, and get a little catch pan to sit over the area. It has two screens on it, take some carb cleaner, and spray as much of the black gunk on the screens out....try swishing some around inside of it, just make sure to drain as much as possible when you are done. BTW, this thing is NOT easily gotten inside of, so dont try that....
Take the FITV off, it is bolted with 3 10mm bolts, to the bottom of the throttle body, you may need to take the coolant lines off to get it out, but once you do, take the gold plate on the back of it off, and you will be looking at an adjustable thermostat. Turn it all the way down (tighten) you will have to push the middle thing in, or just use a special screwdriver setup. Either way, turn it all the way down, then back out 5.5 turns. This adjustment controls the amount that the valve flows at diff temperatures. I have found 5.5 to be the best area, but you are welcome to adjust otherwise, but i can assure you that 5.5 worked for me.
Now check all of your vacuum lines, making sure none of them have cracks or holes in them, you dont want leaks.
If you still have a problem you either have a bad IACV (which would trip a CEL) or you have a vacuum leak somewhere on the manifold</TD></TR></TABLE>
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