Well, I didn't even get to "drive it". I started the car, it died. Here is a summary.

-Car was sitting in the same spot for 3 mths, never used/started. (winter)
-When I try to start the car, battery was dead. Replaced it with brand new one.
-When I FIRST started it, it idled fine @ 1000~1200rpm. Pretty smooth.
-After about 3~5 minutes, I noticed RPM dropping, and then RPM was fluctuating. Going up and down below 800rpm.
-At last, rpm drop to almost 0, VERY VERY rough idle. barely alive. I gave it a quick rev to 3000rpm, let go of the gas, and it died.

I did samething few times. Everytime I rev it up and let it go, it just dies right away. If I just start the car without revving it, it'll stay around... 10rpm?? car vibrating like no other.

Here are few things:
-Spark plugs(ngk coopers. 1 heat range colder, 6mth old).
-Caps/Rotors were replaced with new ones not too long ago.
-Compression check came out fine before I stopped driving the car.
-VAFC2 is UNPLUGGED(not uninstalled, just unplugged. Heard it doesn't really matter)

Whats your thought on this? I should be changing my spark plugs right?
Should I get an oil change also(if I can drive the car)? I have about 2000 miles left on oil change(last oil change was done 5mth ago). Gas tank is about 3/4 tank full(about 3mth old gas).

 

If you hold the rpms steady until it warms up, does it still die after it's warm??

It wouldn't hurt to do a valve adjustment and check the TPS...

 

haven't checked for that. I'll do that tomo and let you know.

 

plug the vafc back in and and set it to stock settings.

the vafc goes in between your map sensor and your ecu. now that it is not there you don't have the map sensor connected.

also I know you have check engine codes so check them and get back to us.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kulrevon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">plug the vafc back in and and set it to stock settings.

the vafc goes in between your map sensor and your ecu. now that it is not there you don't have the map sensor connected.

also I know you have check engine codes so check them and get back to us.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

To add in some info. Once upon a long-*** time ago, i had a vafcII - and I did experience the same problems as you. When I unplugged the vafc, it would never idle up and down. I don't know what it was, but i hated it - especially in a drive-thru.

Anyway, I just took off the vafcII and my problem was solved.

 

yeah you cant unplug the vafc....it now is leaving the map and vtec solenoid circuits open, it would also throw a vtec oil pressure code....plug her back in

the ecu probably reads less from the map during cold start, so the fact that it couldnt get a reading wasnt messing much up until it started to get warmer...

 

I know that if they unplugged the vafc that you will have a check engine code

so why didn't you tell us you had a check engine light.

I am ranting right now but I think we should make a little check box when people are posting problems that says Do you have a check engine light? and then the next one What is it/number?. It would make solveing problems so much easier.

because I am sure that if he started his car that his check engine light is on and shows a 3 or 5, and a 21,22.

 

I had a similar thing happen when i was traveling in Europe... it turned out for me that the gas was shitty and it gummed up my filter and it took replacing that and a lot of rough idle to work that last bit of gas through my car. Hope you get it solved.