anyone have a diy with pics on changing a 93 integra ls brakes?

 

Our teg brakes are so simple. You can buy a Haynes/Chiltons from your local parts store for like $15, and then you will have a walk thru on many regular maintenance items. The Helms is the best manual for our cars tho, but pricey.

I will give you a quick run down on changing pads. Spray area with brake cleaner.

1) Pop the hood and remove the master cylinder fluid resevoir cap. Also place
chucks behind the opposite wheels so you can release your parking brake.

2) Then remove the upper and lower slider pin bolts and slider pins with boot.
Make sure not to let the caliper hang by the hose, set it up on the rotor for now.
Note: This is what they tell you to do, but I figure if the hose can't handle the weight of a hanging caliper, I would rather it break so I can replace it with a
new Stainless Steel hose. Better than leaving you stranded somewhere if it
bursts on the road.

3) Clean the slider pins with a rag, brillow pad or even a fine sandpaper to make
the slider pins smooth as silk. Clean the boot. This step, when skipped, can
cause a sticking caliper.

4) For front caliper pistons, use a C-clamp to sqeeze the piston back in the bore.
For the rear, you have to use something to spin the piston clockwize back in the
bore. I use a open ended wrench with a screwdriver thru the other end as a
handle. (This is why we opened the resevoir, as the piston goes back in the
bore, the fluid travels back up to the resevoir. Use a rag to remove fluid if it
tries to over flow.

5) Oh, ya, the rears have a cover over the parking brake mechanisms, two bolts.

6) Pull the old pads out, and swap the shims to your new pads if they don't come
with them.

7) Use silicone grease (sold in little packets at auto parts stores) and put alittle on
the back of the pads/shims, not the friction surface that meets the rotors, but
the other side and also on the little ends that slide on the caliper. Don't get any
on the rotors.

8) Lube the slider pins with the silicone grease and replace with cleaned boots.

9) Place the caliper with pads back on the bracket and push the sliders in so it will
clear.

10) Replace the slider pin bolts and torque to spec, I forget right now, think 27lbs

11) The rear inner pads have to fit correctly into the groves of the piston. You will
see a little stud on the back of the pad, it must go in the grove of the piston.

12) Remove or add brake fluid, whatever is called for and replace the cap.

This is basically how it is done, and I might have missed a few things. The hardest part is if your rear piston is a beast to spin back in, I had a hell of a time last time on mine. They do sell a tool that will turn it easily, but I have yet to find it.

Also, auto parts stores sell blank rotors for cheap if your rotors are grooved or
really thin, and are a breeze to replace while your there. Good luck and do yourself a favor and buy the cheapy manual so that all my time here was wasted.

 

lol thanks so much dude that would of helped alot. didnt have a clamp so i had to bleed the breakes so i could hand push it back in then fill it back up and let the air out. but i am going to put some money into tools to make things alot easyer