Quick code help...du

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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 06:31 AM
  #1  
Cuda70's Avatar
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From: Ft Worth, Texas, USA
Default Quick code help...

I just finished a D16ZC (SOHC Vtec) swap in my 90 CRX. I got everything wired in, P28 ECU converted to manual.

Well, it runs like crap when it first starts up.

I got a CEL with one long flash, a long pause, and six short flashes.

So, code-10 and code-6 I presume.

6 is a water temp sensor, and 10 is IAT sensor.

If I am reading this correctly, which I think I am, would this be the cause of the poor running at startup? I thought in limp mode, the car would at least idle normally...

Also, if I am reading it wrong, and it's a code-16 (Injectors) can the car still run with an injector code?

When I did the swap, I elected to keep the D15 peak and hold injectors instead of switching to the stock D16ZC saturated injectors. So the resistor box is still intact, but will the maps of the P28 cause the rough running I am experiencing?

It's no big deal, I can switch out injectors, but I was needing some input (Thoughts) on my swap.

Thanks for all the help ahead of time...

BTW, this was a pretty good deal of a car. It is an HF, but the guy I bought it from blew up the tranny and swapped in an SI tranny. On top of that, it was leaking, so I tore it down and discovered it had a Quaife LSD in it! The car cost me 1500, but the engine was shot... hense, the D16ZC (JDM D16Z6)...


Modified by Cuda70 at 10:38 AM 2/10/2006
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 06:52 AM
  #2  
B16CRXT's Avatar
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From: SC
Default Re: Quick code help... (Cuda70)

nice deal on tat car man

heres a nice little bit of help with codes: http://www.hondaswap.com/forum...29806

I don treally know what to tell you about the injectors. I thought it would run fine if you kept the resistor box too...
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 07:11 AM
  #3  
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Default

My car did the same thing this week after my OBD1 conversion. Would hardly start, and once it did it'd die. Eventually I could get it to warm up and then it'd run fine. Ended up being the coolant temp sensor. So basically, the codes your getting are most likely the cause of teh shitty startup. Mine would bog and backfire and just sound like total **** until it warmed up.
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 09:40 AM
  #4  
Cuda70's Avatar
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From: Ft Worth, Texas, USA
Default Re: (purplecrx)

Super!

I appreciate the info guys... Im headed home to check everything with my multimeter.

I'll let you guys know what I discover.

Thanks again!
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