OK, previously I posted about my climate control staying on after I shut off my car. It seemed as if my ignition was in the ACC or ON position even after I removed the key.

Now, I can't keep my car running. The key turns in the ignition fine. It starts and runs, but I can't completely let the ignition return the key to the ON position. If I hold a little pressure on the key (not enough to engage the starter) and keep it turned just barely past where it would normally rest, the car runs fine. If my car were an auto, I could drive it (carefully) to a shop. But I think I'll either have to find someone to shift for me, or have it towed.

It sucks, because electrical is the only thing I don't know a damn thing about. I think I might just need a new ignition switch, but I could be WAY off.

Any ideas?

 

I was having sketchy things happen to my car too .. like reverse lights coming on while driving, car not starting .. ect ... turned out I messed up my Buddy Club battery some how .. (damn dry cell) .. I put the stock one back in and had no more problems.


Modified by AccordRacing at 11:08 AM 2/6/2006

 

Your ignition switch is just messed up

 

yeah john....it sounds too much like the switch, just locate another one in a junkyard.....make sure to get the key with it....

 

I have a prelude ignition for sale with the key. I also have all the other door/trunk locks to go with it.

kulrevon@aol.com

 

Check the actual switch on the end of the key cylinder before you replace the whole thing. Mine went bad recently and it's only $40 for a brand new one from Honda.

The little connections inside can get pretty badly worn out\/\/

 

oh, please God, let this be the problem. I'd hate to have to replace more than just that. I'll let you guys know.

--John

 

im not a guru on honda wiring, but its either one of two things, something is shorting it out or the connection is bad. 99 percent of the time its gonna be the terminals. just get a new ignition w/ a key as long as you dont have a 97+ lude then youll ahve a problem w/ the immobilizer. or do as Hawkze_2.3 said and replace the switch. if you have a 97+ that would be the better option.

 

Well...it was just the ignition switch that took a ****. I am so happy...I just finished paying off my credit cards from Christmas, and I bought a hugely expensive Valentine's gift for my girl--so I have no money. Thankfully, it only cost $170 to fix.

Thanks to Matt and everyone else for the input...

 

Its the ignition switch.
Had the same problem in my friends DA.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_CD7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its the ignition switch.
Had the same problem in my friends DA. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The_Sober &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well...it was just the ignition switch that took a ****. I </TD></TR></TABLE>

:coughs: late :coughs:

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The_Sober &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Thankfully, it only cost $170 to fix.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

$130 in labor?? Glad you got it fixed.

 

Yeah, it came to something like $60 for the part and $105 in labor to replace. I know it could've been done cheaper if I dit it myself. But as I said before, Electrical is the one thing that I refuse to **** with. I rebuilt a 1967 BSA motorcycle engine without so much as a manual...but the electrical I left to a professional. I'm a wuss, whatever...

 

I call you smart

 

I'm just scared of electricity...