battery draining problem
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From: PA, USA
battery draining problem
I have a 92 Si with a JDM H22a swap and i'm having a problem with the battery draining. I can run the car all over the place and shut it off and it starts back up perfectly fine. But after letting it sit for a few days the battery is almost completely dead. I checked all my grounds and they are all tight, and i have no accessories that are left on. I have a basslink in the trunk, but its hooked up with the remote turn on wire so its staying off. The battery is reading around 14 volts at idle and the alternator tests fine so i know its charging, and i have a brand new optima yellow top battery so i'm pretty sure thats ok. Anyone have any ideas on what could be causing this?
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From: sacramento, ca
Re: battery draining problem (Sabbotage)
go to kragen and those guy check ur battery out. It's free. And i mean check just the battery, and not the charging sys. Since you have 14v from the alt, that good, but the battery supoose to have about sightly more than 12v which is usually around 12.3-12.6v.
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From: PA, USA
Re: (hu)
I put the optima in my car when i did the swap. When i got the car it didnt have a battery and the H23 had 2 rods through the block so thats the only battery ive had in the car since ive owned it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiFi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go to kragen</TD></TR></TABLE>
what is kragen? I'm on the east caost and you are in cali so im sure we dont have anything like that around here. I have autozone and they can test the battery. maybe i should get that done to make sure that i didnt get a bad one.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiFi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go to kragen</TD></TR></TABLE>
what is kragen? I'm on the east caost and you are in cali so im sure we dont have anything like that around here. I have autozone and they can test the battery. maybe i should get that done to make sure that i didnt get a bad one.
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From: PA, USA
Re: (ed_1)
No it started this before the radio was even installed in the car. It used to be just the radio plug hanging there connected to nothing, and yes the wires all got connected to the harness right. The radio operates as it should and it shuts off with the ignition and it keeps memory. Im starting to think the optima battery i got is bad. I had a yellow top in my 97 SH and i installed the same battery in my 99 Base when i got it and i let both cars sit all winter without starting them and in the spring they both fired right up. I sold that battery with the 99 though and bought a new one for this car.
The only one thing i know that doesnt work is my cruise control. Well, at least i dont think it works. The light doesnt light up on the cruise switch when i push it but i havent tried it when driving. I'm not sure if this would cause any battery draining problems though anyway unless its a short, but i didnt touch trhe cruise system when i did the swap anyway. Sorry for the book
The only one thing i know that doesnt work is my cruise control. Well, at least i dont think it works. The light doesnt light up on the cruise switch when i push it but i havent tried it when driving. I'm not sure if this would cause any battery draining problems though anyway unless its a short, but i didnt touch trhe cruise system when i did the swap anyway. Sorry for the book
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From: The Wizard Of Oz, State Rd 1505, Section 8
Just hook up an ammeter to the battery - in series - meaning take off the negative terminal and hook it up in series.
then, record the amperage you see. Next, start pulling fuses - when the amperage drops.......you found your problem.
This test is just telling you how much amperage is being used while the car is off (amperage draw)......if you pull a fuse and the amperage drops, that means that something in that circuit is using too much amperage.
I hate when people offer random suggestions - "did you hook up your radio right?"..........
sending him on a goose hunt.............
note: pulling the clock/radio fuse doesn't count
then, record the amperage you see. Next, start pulling fuses - when the amperage drops.......you found your problem.
This test is just telling you how much amperage is being used while the car is off (amperage draw)......if you pull a fuse and the amperage drops, that means that something in that circuit is using too much amperage.
I hate when people offer random suggestions - "did you hook up your radio right?"..........
sending him on a goose hunt.............
note: pulling the clock/radio fuse doesn't count
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From: PA, USA
Re: (TheKINGPin)
cool, thats a good idea 
yeah im sure my radio is right. Ive hooked up probably 100 or more radios in my life and never had one not work so im sure its right
Any idea what the amperage should be with the ignition off? Or should it be equal to the CCA of the battery?
yeah im sure my radio is right. Ive hooked up probably 100 or more radios in my life and never had one not work so im sure its right
Any idea what the amperage should be with the ignition off? Or should it be equal to the CCA of the battery?
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From: The Wizard Of Oz, State Rd 1505, Section 8
Damn. I forget the specs........
its supposed to be small thats all i know. You CAN try to disconnect the clock/radio fuse and see if it goes to zero..............
although the DERM(airbag thing) has to wait 30min to discharge.
Here's what you do, disconnect the radio/clock fuse - and hook it up in series - turn on the car.......and wait a minute(it has to go through its prelimiary checks - so the amperage will be high, but it'll drop in a few seconds............
it should be pretty close to 0 amps.
let me know what your reading is.
OH! Make sure you hook up the DMM with the 10amp rating first - because like i said, the amperage will jump when you first turn the car on while its doing its checks....if it goes over 300ma, your fuse will pop. So take it to 10 amp then once its done reading, take it to the 300ma reading.
Oh! Also, make sure you don't hook it up in paralell unless you want your DMM to smoke......
its supposed to be small thats all i know. You CAN try to disconnect the clock/radio fuse and see if it goes to zero..............
although the DERM(airbag thing) has to wait 30min to discharge.
Here's what you do, disconnect the radio/clock fuse - and hook it up in series - turn on the car.......and wait a minute(it has to go through its prelimiary checks - so the amperage will be high, but it'll drop in a few seconds............
it should be pretty close to 0 amps.
let me know what your reading is.
OH! Make sure you hook up the DMM with the 10amp rating first - because like i said, the amperage will jump when you first turn the car on while its doing its checks....if it goes over 300ma, your fuse will pop. So take it to 10 amp then once its done reading, take it to the 300ma reading.
Oh! Also, make sure you don't hook it up in paralell unless you want your DMM to smoke......
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From: The Wizard Of Oz, State Rd 1505, Section 8
Re: (amckee)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check to see if your glovebox light is going off(if preludes have a glovebox light).</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheKINGPin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I hate when people offer random suggestions - "did you hook up your radio right?"..........
sending him on a goose hunt.............
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you don't know what the expletive you're talking about - don't post. Period.
It would be a good suggestion if you KNEW if preludes had a light or not.........but you don't - so you're just saying BS.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheKINGPin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I hate when people offer random suggestions - "did you hook up your radio right?"..........
sending him on a goose hunt.............
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you don't know what the expletive you're talking about - don't post. Period.
It would be a good suggestion if you KNEW if preludes had a light or not.........but you don't - so you're just saying BS.
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From: PA, USA
Re: (TheKINGPin)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check to see if your glovebox light is going off(if preludes have a glovebox light).</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah mine doesnt have a glovebox light. So that rules that out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheKINGPin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you don't know what the expletive you're talking about - don't post. Period.
It would be a good suggestion if you KNEW if preludes had a light or not.........but you don't - so you're just saying BS. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah mine doesnt have a glovebox light. So that rules that out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheKINGPin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you don't know what the expletive you're talking about - don't post. Period.
It would be a good suggestion if you KNEW if preludes had a light or not.........but you don't - so you're just saying BS.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
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From: Collierville, TN, USA
Re: (Sabbotage)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sabbotage »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yeah mine doesnt have a glovebox light. So that rules that out.
</TD></TR></TABLE>F you both. Hope your battery shorts a cell. Typical prelude ****.
yeah mine doesnt have a glovebox light. So that rules that out.
</TD></TR></TABLE>F you both. Hope your battery shorts a cell. Typical prelude ****.
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From: Chicago, IL
As kingpin said is a good way. You can also disconnect negative terminal on battery and put a test light between negative cable and negative battery terminal, if test light is on it's draining battery somewhere ( all accesories must be off).Pull one fuse after other until your test light goes off.
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From: The Wizard Of Oz, State Rd 1505, Section 8
Re: (ludecz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludecz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As kingpin said is a good way. You can also disconnect negative terminal on battery and put a test light between negative cable and negative battery terminal, if test light is on it's draining battery somewhere ( all accesories must be off).Pull one fuse after other until your test light goes off.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, that wouldn't work because the amperage will be so low - you wouldn't be able to tell the exact amount of amperage. Probably couldn't tell if it was lit or not..........
Also, it would technically be on - unless he pulls the clock/radio fuse.
oh, and I don't know if that would be a good idea - because something could be draining a lot of amperage - which means, the bulb can blow........
Test lights are more ment to check voltage - IMO a test light is like an autometer(non-digital) a/f ratio gauge - compared to an ammeter(digital a/f gauge).
Well, that wouldn't work because the amperage will be so low - you wouldn't be able to tell the exact amount of amperage. Probably couldn't tell if it was lit or not..........
Also, it would technically be on - unless he pulls the clock/radio fuse.
oh, and I don't know if that would be a good idea - because something could be draining a lot of amperage - which means, the bulb can blow........
Test lights are more ment to check voltage - IMO a test light is like an autometer(non-digital) a/f ratio gauge - compared to an ammeter(digital a/f gauge).
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From: The Wizard Of Oz, State Rd 1505, Section 8
Re: (amckee)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">F you both. Hope your battery shorts a cell. Typical prelude ****. </TD></TR></TABLE>
oooooooh. good one
Yes, we're both gay- we're actually nightly lovers. Love you Sabbotage.....
Don't be mad because you were called out - everyone gets called out - i've been called out numerous times.....but get over it.....go get some ***** or something.
oooooooh. good one
Yes, we're both gay- we're actually nightly lovers. Love you Sabbotage.....
Don't be mad because you were called out - everyone gets called out - i've been called out numerous times.....but get over it.....go get some ***** or something.
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From: Orange County, Ca, USA
Re: (TheKINGPin)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheKINGPin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, that wouldn't work because the amperage will be so low - you wouldn't be able to tell the exact amount of amperage. Probably couldn't tell if it was lit or not..........
Also, it would technically be on - unless he pulls the clock/radio fuse.
oh, and I don't know if that would be a good idea - because something could be draining a lot of amperage - which means, the bulb can blow........
Test lights are more ment to check voltage - IMO a test light is like an autometer(non-digital) a/f ratio gauge - compared to an ammeter(digital a/f gauge). </TD></TR></TABLE>
The test light in series will give you a general evulation. If the light is on like 100% of the bulb's intensity, there's definitely a big draw somewhere. If the light is pretty dim, then the draw isn't as bad. There will always be a little draw so if the bulb is lit very dimmly, it's normal.
That being said, the surest way is to put your DMM on like a 10A setting and check. It should draw about 2mA. That's pretty normal.
Also, it would technically be on - unless he pulls the clock/radio fuse.
oh, and I don't know if that would be a good idea - because something could be draining a lot of amperage - which means, the bulb can blow........
Test lights are more ment to check voltage - IMO a test light is like an autometer(non-digital) a/f ratio gauge - compared to an ammeter(digital a/f gauge). </TD></TR></TABLE>
The test light in series will give you a general evulation. If the light is on like 100% of the bulb's intensity, there's definitely a big draw somewhere. If the light is pretty dim, then the draw isn't as bad. There will always be a little draw so if the bulb is lit very dimmly, it's normal.
That being said, the surest way is to put your DMM on like a 10A setting and check. It should draw about 2mA. That's pretty normal.
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From: PA, USA
Re: (TheKINGPin)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheKINGPin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
oooooooh. good one
Yes, we're both gay- we're actually nightly lovers. Love you Sabbotage.....
Don't be mad because you were called out - everyone gets called out - i've been called out numerous times.....but get over it.....go get some ***** or something.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ScareyH22A »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It should draw about 2mA. That's pretty normal. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool thanks for the specs. i'm gonna put the jump box on it tomorrow and get it charged up some then try this out and see if I can come up with something, as long as the damn snow holds off
If not hopefully i can get to it sometime next week. I'll post back with my results.
oooooooh. good one
Yes, we're both gay- we're actually nightly lovers. Love you Sabbotage.....
Don't be mad because you were called out - everyone gets called out - i've been called out numerous times.....but get over it.....go get some ***** or something.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ScareyH22A »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It should draw about 2mA. That's pretty normal. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool thanks for the specs. i'm gonna put the jump box on it tomorrow and get it charged up some then try this out and see if I can come up with something, as long as the damn snow holds off
If not hopefully i can get to it sometime next week. I'll post back with my results.
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From: chantilly, va, usa
Re: battery draining problem (Sabbotage)
kingpin is dead on. unhook the negative battery terminal, hook in the ammeter, wait for the reading to steady out. start pulling fuses until you see the voltage drop. whichever fuse you got, trace it to the source. bingo bango bobs ur uncle there's ur parasitic draw.........good luck
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From: The Wizard Of Oz, State Rd 1505, Section 8
Re: battery draining problem (allmotor99lude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allmotor99lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">kingpin is dead on. unhook the negative battery terminal, hook in the ammeter, wait for the reading to steady out. start pulling fuses until you see the amperage drop. whichever fuse you got, trace it to the source. bingo bango bobs ur uncle there's ur parasitic draw.........good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>
THATS what its called........damn, couldn't remember for the world.
THATS what its called........damn, couldn't remember for the world.
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From: PA, USA
Re: battery draining problem (TheKINGPin)
Well we had a nice weekend this week so i was able to check out my problem finally. I unhooked the negative battery terminal like said and hooked my ammeter up in series. At the 10A setting i was getting a reading of .02 so i guess that would be 200mA. I tried another meter(analog one) with a 250mA setting being the highest and it pegged the needle. So im guessing i'm pulling around 250-300mA maybe. I pulled each and every fuse 1 at a time and checked the meter and got no change. I have an infinity basslink and I pulled its fuse also with no change. Someone suggested to me to check my diode in my alternator and sure enough it tested fine too. I'm really stumped on this issue. Maybe someone can give me some feedback on this?
Edit: i did go to advance and had them test the battery, and of course it needed charged so i had them charge it while i was there, but the battery tested out good.
Modified by Sabbotage at 7:50 PM 3/12/2006
Edit: i did go to advance and had them test the battery, and of course it needed charged so i had them charge it while i was there, but the battery tested out good.
Modified by Sabbotage at 7:50 PM 3/12/2006
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From: PA, USA
Re: (prelude_h22vtec)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelude_h22vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the same thing happened in my car once. it ended up being the light in the trunk. it didnt go off when it was shut. so check that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont even think i have a light in the trunk. I'll have to double check though. Do 4th gens have trunk lights? Also, if it was the trunk light I would think that my battery would go dead overnight and its not doing that. It usually lasts around 3 days or so till its dead again.
i dont even think i have a light in the trunk. I'll have to double check though. Do 4th gens have trunk lights? Also, if it was the trunk light I would think that my battery would go dead overnight and its not doing that. It usually lasts around 3 days or so till its dead again.
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