cv boot...whatelse?
okay, so the weather was good today so i went to start up my car (stored for winter) and i had the front on jacks...
i always FELT a clicking noise in the steering wheel about every 15 degrees i turned it, in either direction, but never a clicking noise, like the one that is always explained in the cv boot posts.
My question is:
a) is it possible for me to fix this (is there a DIY, or somebody willing to help me)?
b) should i get it done from honda? or any local garage?
c) should i change my axles?
d) what else shoudl i look out for, ball joints etc.?
i've also included some pics i snapped, both boots are full of greese.
driver side:

Passenger side

**dont comment about the leaves that you see, i know they are there
i always FELT a clicking noise in the steering wheel about every 15 degrees i turned it, in either direction, but never a clicking noise, like the one that is always explained in the cv boot posts.
My question is:
a) is it possible for me to fix this (is there a DIY, or somebody willing to help me)?
b) should i get it done from honda? or any local garage?
c) should i change my axles?
d) what else shoudl i look out for, ball joints etc.?
i've also included some pics i snapped, both boots are full of greese.
driver side:

Passenger side

**dont comment about the leaves that you see, i know they are there
The clicking you heard in the steering wheel was the directional switch canceling mechanism. Many Accords do that at one time on the other.
The C/V joint click is another matter altogether.
Once you do the math, you'll most likely find that installing a remanufactured Axle assembly will actually be cheaper and faster. I've seen web sites selling axle assemblies for around $100.00 bucks. Even Deathzone Auto Parts can fix u up with one.
It can be a DIY type of thing, IF you've got the repair manual guide and the proper tools.
P
The C/V joint click is another matter altogether.
Once you do the math, you'll most likely find that installing a remanufactured Axle assembly will actually be cheaper and faster. I've seen web sites selling axle assemblies for around $100.00 bucks. Even Deathzone Auto Parts can fix u up with one.
It can be a DIY type of thing, IF you've got the repair manual guide and the proper tools.
P
yea...i feel it in the wheel especially if i have my foot on the brake!
i'm in canada, so that axle price doesnt apply to me nor does that place
hmmm....if i do replace teh axle, anythign i shoudl watch out for, liek higher grade or for moded cars vs stock? i'm dropped on tokico illumina's and B&G springs
is the noise i feel different from the clicking noise? or is the same problem (ripped cv boot) but just on a lower scale
i'm in canada, so that axle price doesnt apply to me nor does that place
hmmm....if i do replace teh axle, anythign i shoudl watch out for, liek higher grade or for moded cars vs stock? i'm dropped on tokico illumina's and B&G springs
is the noise i feel different from the clicking noise? or is the same problem (ripped cv boot) but just on a lower scale
The C/V Joint will ultimately fail (as can be attested to by several Honda-Tech contributors) and the car will not move. There will be no advanced warning, so a weekend trip either the Hudson Bay colonies, or the Canadian Rockies is off.
P
P
Holeshots not withstanding, I'd also suggest you turn your attention to the opposite side C/V Joint boot as well. You may find it's ready to crack open as well.
For general information purposes, CV Boots don't crack from Holeshots, they crack from oxidation, constant flexing, damage from things hitting / puncturing them and excessive full stop to stop turning (high angle).
It looks like it's been cracked for some time considering the dryed grease thrown up on the inside tire / rim and outer items in close proximity
P
For general information purposes, CV Boots don't crack from Holeshots, they crack from oxidation, constant flexing, damage from things hitting / puncturing them and excessive full stop to stop turning (high angle).
It looks like it's been cracked for some time considering the dryed grease thrown up on the inside tire / rim and outer items in close proximity

P
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never done any burnouts....
yea, last year my car jumped curb jsut before i went to store it (dec 04) then i pulled it back out in may 05 and always had this clicking but never thought much of it cuz it never made a clicking noise
i had only felt it in the wheel (or when i had my foot on the brake and turned the wheel), and that i only felt sometimes.
so all in all....my best bet is to change the whole axle?
anybody have a picture of the parts i need? i also have the full manual on my computer, anybody know which page it would be?
yea, last year my car jumped curb jsut before i went to store it (dec 04) then i pulled it back out in may 05 and always had this clicking but never thought much of it cuz it never made a clicking noise
i had only felt it in the wheel (or when i had my foot on the brake and turned the wheel), and that i only felt sometimes.
so all in all....my best bet is to change the whole axle?
anybody have a picture of the parts i need? i also have the full manual on my computer, anybody know which page it would be?
well the redneck response will be as follow
this is a job for duct tape.......
You can replcae the joint for about $100 and they usually do not have to take the axle completely out. I got my outer joint replaced on my 1994 for $96
this is a job for duct tape.......
You can replcae the joint for about $100 and they usually do not have to take the axle completely out. I got my outer joint replaced on my 1994 for $96
This is one of those "6 of one thing, half a dozen of an other" situations we deal with from time to time.
Replacing the C/V joint MAY be Cheaper (Parts-wise) but is worth twice the Labor Charge.
New C/V Joint (no aftermarket sourse known) :
Honda doesn't even offer just the outer C/V joint assemble....
Replacing the Axle assembly Might be more expansive but involves half the labor.
Reman axles run from $90.00usd to $125.00usd depending where you pick one up.
Refer:
http://replacement.autopartswa...=true
or
http://pa.partsandaccessories....=true
P
Replacing the C/V joint MAY be Cheaper (Parts-wise) but is worth twice the Labor Charge.
New C/V Joint (no aftermarket sourse known) :
Honda doesn't even offer just the outer C/V joint assemble....
Replacing the Axle assembly Might be more expansive but involves half the labor.
Reman axles run from $90.00usd to $125.00usd depending where you pick one up.
Refer:
http://replacement.autopartswa...=true
or
http://pa.partsandaccessories....=true
P
burn outs are easy. push in the clutch and stick it in first, then while the clutch is still pushed in, get the engine revving real high and let go of the clutch. a great way to ruin tires.
i'm trying to get a headstart on replacing this item
i'm abit confused tho
is this going to be 2 different parts, or one complete axle assembly?
if i'm searchiing on http://www.car-part.com there are a lot things listed, what would I choose?
if I goto the store or shop to ask them for the part, what do I ask for? front axle assembly? cv shaft? driveshaft?
thanks
i'm abit confused tho
is this going to be 2 different parts, or one complete axle assembly?
if i'm searchiing on http://www.car-part.com there are a lot things listed, what would I choose?
if I goto the store or shop to ask them for the part, what do I ask for? front axle assembly? cv shaft? driveshaft?
thanks
P,
They just pulled the bad joint off and put on a new one. Took them less than 45 mins to do. That was about 15K ago on that car...
I had a friend do it so he just chared me cost for parts and 1 hour labor.
They just pulled the bad joint off and put on a new one. Took them less than 45 mins to do. That was about 15K ago on that car...
I had a friend do it so he just chared me cost for parts and 1 hour labor.
go bet 2 axles,, Autozone or checker, you can get it for 70 dollars each,
then go to http://www.hondahookup.com .. on the how to sticky there is a step by step instruction how to replace axles ...
then go to http://www.hondahookup.com .. on the how to sticky there is a step by step instruction how to replace axles ...
This type of job is to easy to pay someone else to do it.Just buy new right and left side axel.And replace them yourself.
all you need is a basic set of hand tools a Balljoint remover and a 36 mm socket.
Just to make things easy buy a pack of cotter pins don't want to have to reuse the old ones
with the balljoint remover don't get it to tight it actually can crush the threads on your balljoints. just loosen up the nuts and then put a good amount of pressure on the remover tool then give it some taps with a hammer and they will pop free.
Heres a pick of the tools and an axel to help you out.

Modified by Dmc1 at 10:13 AM 3/4/2006
all you need is a basic set of hand tools a Balljoint remover and a 36 mm socket.
Just to make things easy buy a pack of cotter pins don't want to have to reuse the old ones
with the balljoint remover don't get it to tight it actually can crush the threads on your balljoints. just loosen up the nuts and then put a good amount of pressure on the remover tool then give it some taps with a hammer and they will pop free.
Heres a pick of the tools and an axel to help you out.

Modified by Dmc1 at 10:13 AM 3/4/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by devilpuppy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay right now my car is stock, but should i put prelude axles in?
if i ever do an h22 swap, wont i need prelude axles anyways?</TD></TR></TABLE>
anybody?
if i ever do an h22 swap, wont i need prelude axles anyways?</TD></TR></TABLE>
anybody?
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Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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