hey guys, i've got a problem that kinda has me stumped/bracing for bad news at the same time. i've had on-going problems with my b16a EF9 swap.
heres the stats for the info fiends..... jdm b16a w/teg LS tranny. PR3 ecu. DC 4-2-1
header, open header for now. AEBS intake manifold. stock injectors. AEM fuel rail and AEM adjustable fuel pressure regulator (currently at 40 psi). skunk2 dual valve springs and TI retainers(<new). supertec valves (<new but NOT oversized). exedy flywheel and ACT clutch. i've also got a VAFC but all the settings are STOCK and have not been adjusted. note...the bottom end has been freshly rebuilt with all OEM parts, and the head and valvetrain is like new as well (but no p&p). the motor was built by an experienced honda enthusiast and he basically broke it in (put 3000 miles on it....and it ran like a beast too) then pulled it out and sold it to me.

first it was axle problems i had. then i installed a brand new alternator, and a while later it decided to take a $hit on me, so i replaced it with another alternator. shortly after that i had to replace the battery, as well as a faulty axle seal. then the shift rod seal went too. dont you guys wish you had my luck?......yeah......thats why i've never been to vegas. well, all that stuff is fixed, but thats not the worst....today's events fu<ked me runnin. i was gonna re-set the timing to stock today. my ignition timing was ok, but the cam timing wasnt up to snuff quite yet. i went ahead and started the car to let it warm up. (kinda cold out and its been sittin for a few days cuz i had to wait for the shift rod seal to ship.) usually when i start it up cold, its a little rough but it'll settle into idle pretty good once its warm(needed timing and tuning) and i drove it a for while without a hitch, except for the parts failures mentioned above. HERE'S THE KICKER>. today when i started it up, it would die immediately if i let off the gas, and once it warmed up it would just die when trying to go into idle. it was misfiring REALLY bad and the more higher you revved it the WORSE it got. you couldnt really even rev it up at all cuz the misfiring was so bad, you had to smash the peddle to the floor just to get the revs to climb over 4000. i shut it off and scratched my head while waiting for a friend with more experience show up. once he arrived i told him what was going on, and he insnsted that we immediately re-set the cam timing before even trying to start it again, so we did. come to find out, the cam timing was only off around a tooth, or tooth and a half. we set it back to stock, and tried to start it. for a minute it wouldnt fire, then right after a HUGE backfire it stuttered to life.....WITH THE SAME DAMN MISFIRING PROBLEM AS BEFORE, only this time it will drop right into idle (700ish) and stay there. it has horrible throttle response, and now when you hit the gas the revs try to climb, but its misfiring the whole time and feels bogged down. we played with the ignition timing but no help there. spark and fuel delivery are both good as well. the only possibility that comes to mind is bent valves. when i shut the car off you could see combustion gasses coming from the intake filter. the only thing i can think of, is it might have jumped timing today when i first started it. but when we checked, it wasnt off enough to make valves hit (at least i dont think so) cuz the compression is stock and the valves are stock size.

does anyone else have any input on this. i hope to god i dont have to replace bent valves cuz theyre effin brand new. would anything else cause a problem like this???


Modified by runeminaEF9 at 10:04 PM 1/26/2006

 

bump

 

I know it's a simple one but have you checked that the ignition leads are plugged in in the right order i.e. 1-3-4-2? I made this mistake myelf and it took me an hour to find

 

it was checked over by a competent technician yesterday, (<my friend who came over). if i had anything out of place he would've corrected it yesterday..............everything is in its proper place....as i mentioned...this hasnt been an ongoing problem, i had been driving the car fine up till yesterday when all hell broke loose.

 

same here...wires were backwards and it took me 1 hr and 50 bucks to figure that **** out...

 

bump....anyone else? where the hell are the honda gurus when you need em.

 

bump

 

and again to the top

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by runeminaEF9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> it was checked over by a competent technician yesterday, (&lt;my friend who came over). if i had anything out of place he would've corrected it yesterday..............everything is in its proper place....as i mentioned...this hasnt been an ongoing problem, i had been driving the car fine up till yesterday when all hell broke loose.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If he is so competent then why don't you know the answer to your question?

Have you checked the firing order as mentioned above?

Here's how it should look.

 

im having the same problem with my b16a in my ek, its been out of commission for a week now. i hope its a wiring problem and not the motor. the car died and i was scared, i boosted it and it came to life, it was idoling high but it was cold out, once it droped to the normal 900-1000ish i tried to drive it and notting, i had to smash the peddle to to get some rpms up. a fuse in the alternator went and i think there is some shitty wiring to the alternator. i hope this is the problem. does it sound the same as u?

 

mr. crxtreme89h, i dont 100% know the answer to my question because i dont have a compression or leakdown tester on hand, and neither did my friend, therefore i need to gain access to one before i go tearin into my motor to find out it might not be the valves. gee buddy, the guy's a competent mechanic, but its not like he's got his own shop we can tow it to and check it ourselves at. i'm here asking my question because i'm looking for ANY other possibility besides bent valves. the firing order is correct for sure as well.

 

bumparoo

 

You could have many things wrong that will constitute to an bad or non idle some of the things i would look into are the settings on the VAFC the TPS location it should put about .35 volts at idle or idle position check all sensors for proper voltage curves make sure that the IACV has voltage and continuity across it also look into checking out the Dizzy itself pop off the cap and see if the rotor is making contact with leads or atleast able to transfer energy across the gap another thing to check is to see if the Dizzy is wet if so spray some WD-40 in it let it dry and then replace all parts and try starting car again you may also want to check vaccum lines just to see if any are leaking also check timing on crank and cam side to make sure your correct if you have any luck PM me and let me know what worked for you best of luck man

 

your still out of timing man. if your giving it throtle and its not makeing power then its out of timing. put it in neutral and rev it, it will still tack up normal if out of time. ima bet 50 bucks man good luck.

PS. that LS tranny on B16 is going to blow. let that be your next mod

 

Do you have any codes? Did the guy who sold you this motor ever take you for a ride to prove this was a good motor? Have you done a compression or leak down test to see that its sound? Double check your firing order, and look over your ignition system (pull the dizzy cap off and look, plugs, wires, etc )

 

firing order, vafc, cam and ignition timing, have ALL been double and triple checked. i do have proof that the motor was good before he pulled it....i rode in the car as well as several other people and we all know the thing ran like a champ right before he pulled it....several pulls to 100 + mph on the highway, as well as a month or so of daily driving. the only reason he had to sell the motor in the first place is cuz he desperately needed money to finish a turbo swap he was working on, so selling it to me was his only choice. as for the idle, i mentioned before that idle is no longer the problem...it starts right up and settles into idle fine now, but when you give it ANY gas it just misfires and stutters/bogs. BEFORE we re-timed it, idle was a problem, but now its perfect. i've pulled all the plugs twice and they all look perfect...no signs of running lean or rich, and no oil/water on plugs or in sparkplug holes - everything is perfectly clean. the only real sign besides the misfiring, is the combustion gasses coming back out the intake filter when you shut the car off. i'm still working on the leakdown or compression test, hopefully its gonna happen by next week. as for codes, the only ones i have are because v-tec isnt hooked up at the moment, and i also have a map sensor code....i'll have to wait till tommorrow to see which one it is cuz i cant remember off the top of my head.

p.s. i know the LS trans will suck, its all i have to work with for the time being till i get all the kinks out of this damn motor.....after that i'll work on finding a b16 trans.

 

hey im new in this area but i have a prblem with my ls-vetch i was wandering if you now something about it: The proble i have with my ls-vetch is that my ideal bounces and i was wondering if you can tell me what can the problem be?