Hi,

#1 has zero compression suddenly when started one morning, no warning at all. It runs rough on 3 cylinders but drives ok. We would like to fix the motor. All of the valves are moving so it is not a spring or cam problem. Guessing either burned valve, holed piston or broken ring. In any case the head is going to have to come off. I would like an inventory of things that should be replaced at this time due to the head coming off. I have: timing/balance belts, front seals, head gasket, intake/exhaust gaskets, distributor o-ring, water pump, thermostat, hoses, head bolts(since they are TTY type, right?). And can name-brand aftermarket parts be trusted or should I go OEM all the way. Also, I believe this motor uses a MLS gasket, what does this mean in terms of getting the head machined and cleaning up the block, how careful do I have to be? I usually use B12 and a brass grill brush to clean up cast iron blocks, but I have never done an aluminum block and especially not a MLS gasket surface.

Now, in the case there is a bad piston or ring, I would like to know the correct procedure to install new rings (and perhaps piston). I should check for cylinder wall scoring from a broken ring, and use a micrometer to check the cylinder for out of round, and if so, it will have to be bored at the shop (or maybe just forget it and get a junkyard short block?). If that is ok, I should use a ridge reamer on the cylinder top. Then pull the oil pan, unbolt the rod cap, and pull the piston/rod out the top. Then I should hone the cylinder (what sort of hone, and how to use it?). Install new piston if necessary (new wrist pin? is it a press fit?), and rings using a ring pliers. Oil cylinder wall, then use a ring compressor to fit the piston back in, careful not to hit the rod on the crank. Reattach rod cap after apply assembly lube (loctite? new bolts? change rod bearing?). Replace oil pump and pickup at this time? Reinstall oil pan (permablack RTV? on which side of gasket?). Reassemble, crank for oil pressure, and run.

Do I have the procedure generally down? Anyone have any experience they want to relate that may save time and effort? Is it a good idea to do ALL the rings and not just the cylinder that has a problem, or better to leave well enough alone? And should I bother with the rod bearings at this point. The motor has 190K and there is no bearing knock.

Thanks.

 

you can go one of two ways. rebuild the one you have (highly recommended) or buy a replacement and drop it in.

Since it looks like you may be doing this yourself, save yourself a headache and just do a proper rebuild and get it over with.

Nothing sux more than fixing only the problem and the engine fails later on and you are back fixing it again.

 

or you can just do a H22 swap and make it faster.

 

Should I bother with the rod bearings or just do the rings? And who makes the most reliable replacement parts for a daily driver (not racer)?

 

Something else I meant to ask is whether the motor is best removed to do the rings and/or rods, or if it can be reasonably accomplished with it in the car. I am not familiar with Hondas

 

I would have the the whole engine inpespected and personally I would hone the cylander walls to make them smooth again and also replace the rings. Pistons, connecting rods, and crank should be checked for proper clearances. Like i mentioned above, just bite the bullet and do it right so you are not back in there fixing some other problem.


with proper maint, honda engines can easily go 400K plus. Where I live I always see hondas in the paper with 255K plus on them.

 

just buy a replacment junkyard motor for $300-400, it will be cheaper and easier than fixing the existing one.

 

Well, here is what happened. I took it apart and had the valve fixed. After that, it ran great but burned oil, sometimes as much as 1 qt in 300 miles. 10,000 miles later the valve burned again. I guess it was from all the oil. The plugs were clean except #1 had coke spots all around the white part of the insulator. Somehow it wasn't bad enough to cause a miss or anything.

Don't know why it burned oil because the pistons were clean at the previous teardown, and supposedly a new valve stem seal (but I didn't check that they actually did it).

I guess now it's time to look for a new motor, even though I'm now more confused as to what's wrong with this one than ever.

 

I'd just throw a junk yard motor in there...you can allways part out all the good componets of your motor right now..but if your looking for fast, easy, cost effective...drop a new one in just my 2 cents

 

I'm having problems finding a cheap F22A. F22B seem to be plentiful but getting the correct ECU looks like a pain.

 

did you do a search on your local craigslist????

 

I would drop in a H22 or new F if you want to turbo an F

 

Can't afford a H22 Unless someone knows a cheapo.

I see F22B's around $300 + ship, but don't know where to go for the ECU.

I did check Craigslist and post a wanted ad but no bites yet.

I also did a search through car-part.com

 

when replacing the motor you do not need to replace the ecu if youy get the same engine you only need a long block you reuse all accesories and brackets

{maybe you are not experienced enough} for the job and should have a professional do it

if you feel comfortable get a hanes manual or alldata and go to town

GOOD LUCK