h22 timing belt slack at TDC?
just converted my h22a to a manual style tensioner, and i finally was able to get the timing belt on after removing the balance pulley. anyway i noticed that theres a lot of slack in between the cam-gears when the motor is at Top Dead Center. when i rotate the crank itll tighten up, then itll loosen again at the gears after like a 1/2 turn. and it will keep going like this. is this normal?? i have the cam gears set to zero, and i dont think the t-belt is stretched, althou it maybe. what do u think. heres a couple pictures at TDC, and 1/2 turn and 1 turn etc.

and heres one after a 1/4 turn of crank 3/4 etc.

and heres one after a 1/4 turn of crank 3/4 etc.
my car did the same thing when i did my first t-belt. you have to turn the crank, so that all the slack between the gears is gone, and the ntighten the tensioner. if you tighten the tensoiner before you take this slack out, it will keep coming back. thats what makes doing the belt a beotch. there's a fine art to get all the slack out, and keep the timing marks aligned.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by antballs420 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u mean the one that holds the tension pulleys inplace? </TD></TR></TABLE>
yep.
yep.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SteveoBA8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure your doing the proper tensioning procedure(turn engine counter-clockwise 3 teeth, tighten adjusting nut)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Trending Topics
Looks to loose to me, you might have to pull up on the tensioner a little while tightening the bolt. I have had to do this numerous times when doing timing belt jobs.
I would be careful not to put too much tension on the belt. Just follow the procedure for setting tension in the Helm's, and you'll be good to go.
At TDC on the #1 cylinder, the exhaust cam wants to rotate CW and the intake cam wants to rotate CCW and this creates the slack. The effect is magnified if you have stiffer than stock valve springs.
At TDC on the #1 cylinder, the exhaust cam wants to rotate CW and the intake cam wants to rotate CCW and this creates the slack. The effect is magnified if you have stiffer than stock valve springs.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would be careful not to put too much tension on the belt. Just follow the procedure for setting tension in the Helm's, and you'll be good to go.
At TDC on the #1 cylinder, the exhaust cam wants to rotate CW and the intake cam wants to rotate CCW and this creates the slack. The effect is magnified if you have stiffer than stock valve springs.</TD></TR></TABLE> Yes just follow the H23 timing belt and balance shaft belt tensioning procedure.
At TDC on the #1 cylinder, the exhaust cam wants to rotate CW and the intake cam wants to rotate CCW and this creates the slack. The effect is magnified if you have stiffer than stock valve springs.</TD></TR></TABLE> Yes just follow the H23 timing belt and balance shaft belt tensioning procedure.
I have done countless numbers of timing belt jobs on Honda's, following the helms manual to the T, sometimes you have to apply tension and pull up on the tensioner to get enough tension on the belt.
I'm not the only one with the problem either, seems like a lot of people run into it as well.
And to say the tension on this belt is normal

Is pretty scary, you start that engine up and the cam gears are pretty dam close to skipping a tooth. Follow the helms, if its still loose, pull up on the tensioner.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CGags13 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea the last two guys are right...as long as you follow the procedure there will be some slack that moves around into different spots</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not true, sometimes the spring will not pull up as much as needed, allowing way to much slack. The picture that he posted, there is to much slack.
Take a look, its not like I'm the only one talking about this
Your search for tensioner coat hanger returned 58 results.
I'm not the only one with the problem either, seems like a lot of people run into it as well.
And to say the tension on this belt is normal

Is pretty scary, you start that engine up and the cam gears are pretty dam close to skipping a tooth. Follow the helms, if its still loose, pull up on the tensioner.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CGags13 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea the last two guys are right...as long as you follow the procedure there will be some slack that moves around into different spots</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not true, sometimes the spring will not pull up as much as needed, allowing way to much slack. The picture that he posted, there is to much slack.
Take a look, its not like I'm the only one talking about this
Your search for tensioner coat hanger returned 58 results.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is pretty scary, you start that engine up and the cam gears are pretty dam close to skipping a tooth. Follow the helms, if its still loose, pull up on the tensioner. Not true, sometimes the spring will not pull up as much as needed, allowing way to much slack. The picture that he posted, there is to much slack. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yea youre right, theres too much slack right there at the teeth...i shouldve clarified better..and i also had to pull a little on my tensioner...regardless there still always is a little slack on the belt when its done right, but not that much
hey 90blackcrx and anyone else out there- why do you have to pull on the tensioner slightly? is it because the belt is already tight to fit and the spring cant pull it enough?? ive been trying to make reason of it since i did it.
yea youre right, theres too much slack right there at the teeth...i shouldve clarified better..and i also had to pull a little on my tensioner...regardless there still always is a little slack on the belt when its done right, but not that much
hey 90blackcrx and anyone else out there- why do you have to pull on the tensioner slightly? is it because the belt is already tight to fit and the spring cant pull it enough?? ive been trying to make reason of it since i did it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CGags13 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
hey 90blackcrx and anyone else out there- why do you have to pull on the tensioner slightly? is it because the belt is already tight to fit and the spring cant pull it enough?? ive been trying to make reason of it since i did it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't think the spring has enough strength sometimes. I use to have customers buying OEM timing belts, then aftermarket springs. I no longer allow that, it just rules out the spring being the problem.
hey 90blackcrx and anyone else out there- why do you have to pull on the tensioner slightly? is it because the belt is already tight to fit and the spring cant pull it enough?? ive been trying to make reason of it since i did it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't think the spring has enough strength sometimes. I use to have customers buying OEM timing belts, then aftermarket springs. I no longer allow that, it just rules out the spring being the problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SteveoBA8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure your doing the proper tensioning procedure(turn engine counter-clockwise 3 teeth, tighten adjusting nut)</TD></TR></TABLE>
isnt it suppose to be turn counter-clockwise 3 teeth then loosen and then tighten the tension bolt?
isnt it suppose to be turn counter-clockwise 3 teeth then loosen and then tighten the tension bolt?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by projectTeG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
isnt it suppose to be turn counter-clockwise 3 teeth then loosen and then tighten the tension bolt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes if you mean the big bolt that holds the tensioner adjuster for the timing belt and balance belt
isnt it suppose to be turn counter-clockwise 3 teeth then loosen and then tighten the tension bolt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes if you mean the big bolt that holds the tensioner adjuster for the timing belt and balance belt
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
wk9k
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
8
Mar 13, 2012 05:45 PM



just follow your manual.

