nfinitecc

if i slip off the timing belt on my d15 and don't move the cam or crank , is there any reason i can't just slip the new one on without having to reset the timing? thanks in advance for any info

civictildeath

it can be done but will probably take longer to make sure it doesnt move and always gotta check timing to be safe

Luserkid

If everything is set to TDC and you take it off and put it back on it should be fine.

nfinitecc

but why would it matter if it was at TDC i mean the pullys will be in the exact same place when i slip on the new one....so as lo0ng as the cam or crank don't move (which is easily done) than everything should be fine right? i just didn't kow if there was any need to do the 1/4 turn counter clock wise to "set" the belt

nfinitecc

anyone?????

beaterdriver

its easier just to set it at tdc, u have to use a 19mm anyways to take the crank pulley off, so just go ahead and line it up, makes things easier when putting it on and tensioning it correctly.

TouringAccord

Your further ahead to take the extra 5-10 minutes and make sure everything is lined up correctly. You already have everything apart, why not take the time to make sure it's done right. It's not one of those things you want to mess up on.

BauleyCivic

No because you have to adjust the tensioner...and you have to make sure the tension is on the front side of the belt.

Loosen the tensioner, slide the belt off, then do your business. Once you're done doing whatever, set both the cam gear and crank pulley to tdc (maybe even set the crank a little bit past TDC...its kind of trial and error). Then, slide the belt back onto the cam gear, make sure that there is adequate tension on the front of the motor! Then, turn the crank over 2 times COUNTERCLOCKWISE. Then tighten the tensioner then make sure both the crank pulley and cam gear are at tdc. If they aren't, do it again. It took me 7 times to get it right when I did my head gasket a few weeks ago!

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nfinitecc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but why would it matter if it was at TDC i mean the pullys will be in the exact same place when i slip on the new one....so as lo0ng as the cam or crank don't move (which is easily done) than everything should be fine right? i just didn't kow if there was any need to do the 1/4 turn counter clock wise to "set" the belt</TD></TR></TABLE>

Assuming NOTHING moves, then it won't matter at all. Of course there is a little more to it then just slipping the belt off and slipping a new one on. One engine mount has to come out and the crank pulley must be removed as well as the lower and upper timing covers. Problem is that usually when removing the crank pulley, it will rotate. All it takes is one tooth and your in trouble when it comes time to fire it up. Its honestly easier to just set it all to TDC and do it that way. At least you will have some marks to go by before you fire it up. Just guessing COULD result in engine damage (remember, interfearance engine).

nfinitecc

thanks guys...i already have the pully and shiat off..im ready to pull it...i just thought that if the crank pulley moved it wouldn't matter because the belts still on so the cam would move too in accordiance with the timing, untension, slip off, slip on re-tension but ill double check just in case!

Frozen E

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nfinitecc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks guys...i already have the pully and shiat off..im ready to pull it...i just thought that if the crank pulley moved it wouldn't matter because the belts still on so the cam would move too in accordiance with the timing, untension, slip off, slip on re-tension but ill double check just in case!</TD></TR></TABLE>

WTF did you say??? Let us know how bad it sounds when your pistons ram into your valves. Ok.

beaterdriver

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IslandSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WTF did you say??? Let us know how bad it sounds when your pistons ram into your valves. Ok. </TD></TR></TABLE>


it doesnt sound good, believe i know

95excoupe

Yeah please dont mess with your timing belt if you have no clue what your doing...your gonna have one sad motor if its a tooth off then you have to do the whole thing over. Call up a friend who has a clue or take it to a mechanic. Just a friendly suggestion

nfinitecc

no offense but i DO know what im doing i have done timing belts on honda before as well as several swaps...i just was wondering if there was some kinda short cut.....

95excoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nfinitecc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no offense but i DO know what im doing i have done timing belts on honda before as well as several swaps...i just was wondering if there was some kinda short cut.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

All I am saying is you dont want to rush a job like that do it the right way the first time...

kysard

to do it this way you must mark the crank shaft sprocket and cam sproket going across the old belt then mark the new belt the at the same spots then back onto the sprokets with the marks. If you don't you could end up off a couple teeth. This works better on some cars than Hondas, I found using TDC much easier for Hondas due I think the the tensioner

nfinitecc

i wasn't taken your comment with sarcasim, i was that other guy...thanks ill just do it with TDC thanks

specv5150

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Assuming NOTHING moves, then it won't matter at all. Of course there is a little more to it then just slipping the belt off and slipping a new one on. One engine mount has to come out and the crank pulley must be removed as well as the lower and upper timing covers. Problem is that usually when removing the crank pulley, it will rotate. All it takes is one tooth and your in trouble when it comes time to fire it up. Its honestly easier to just set it all to TDC and do it that way. At least you will have some marks to go by before you fire it up. Just guessing COULD result in engine damage (remember, interfearance engine).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I can atest to this first hand. I thought I would be cool after a head gasket job and just "slip" the timing belt back on the cam gear. I thought I had everyhting set at TDC but I was wrong and my car wouldnt start for ****. Ended up taking it to Honda and I believe I was two teeth off. So do it the right way the FIRST time or you end up repeating **** over and over and worse...having to pay someone to fix it. Luckily I didnt get raped at Honda.

civtegra_hybrid

yeah you better to that **** the right way and not cut any corners, your risking f***ing up you valves when you start that ****. just remove the low cover if your going to change the timming belt. (after the pulley), and if your going to use the same belt just keep the lower cover on and the crank. just set the crank at tdc, and set the cam gear with the arrow pointing up and the lines even with the top of the head. and the slip on the belt, and then use a small hook type bar and put the end of it around the tensoner's arm and pull up, for tenson and then use your 14mm to tighten that **** down and double check that **** is still on tdc on the crank and up on the cam. and there you have it .

slambedcivic

i didnt read the rest of this thread, but why would you want to skimp on one of the most important things on your car?

TGrant

in the time that you sat here and argued about it you could have had the whole thing done the right way

nfinitecc

yea ok..to bad i wasn't arguing and its been done for a couple of days now...thanks