My fuel pressure drops to 0 within 2 minutes of shutting off the car. I have replaced all vacuum lines and installed an AEM fuel pressure regulator and fuel rail on top of rc injectors with no leaks. I have a B&M guage which is telling me how much pressure I have which also has no leaks.

WTF is going on here. Is my fuel pump turning to ****? Sometimes I turn on the car and it's idle drops to 100 rpms then cuts off. Then it takes about 10 seconds of turning the starter to get it going again. Not to mention the intermitten hesitation I experience while driving.

Can anyone help me pinpoint that my fuel pump is going bad so I can ******* go spend 300 dollars on it?

Signed,
Fading CRX enthusiast who kicked an SRT-4's *** last week.

 

i think there was another thread about this awhile back too, and as far as i know, its no big deal for the pressure to drop to zero after you shut it off. i mean, theres no vacuum/manifold pressure when the cars off, cuz obvoiusly its not running, not sucking in air, so therefore theres no reason to have pressure after shutoff. as for the idle dropping at startup, you might wanna change your fuel filter and see if that helps. it might or might not work...... if its really old/clogged the car could have trouble with fuel delivery at low rpm's like that. i'm not sure if the filter is why it would take 10 seconds to start...never had that kinda problem on any of my cars, so i dont have experience there. as for the price of a fuel pump, you can buy a walboro 255 lph pump for around 100 bucks, and its not that terribly tough to put it in. maybe someone else can give some other explanations for what it could be, but thats all the info i have. good luck.

 

Well I put a venom fuel pump in there when I had my SOHC about 2 years ago. And it really has never ran right since. After I had my engine swapped the problem got worse and I replaced o2 sensor and all kinds of **** including the main fuel relay to try and fix it. From what I understand your fuel pressure should not drop below 30 for at least 5 minutes and that is simply not the case for me.

When I first installed my injectors and filled the rail to check for leaks, the fuel pressure actually seemed to hold like normal until I drove it, then the same problem started to occur again. The fuel filter was replaced less than 2 weeks ago and the fuel was black in it. The injectors have been replaced since then. I really think that it is possible that the fuel pump check valve went?

 

Ok, now my car is ******* misfiring constantly. At low rpms levels with the throttle pedal slightly depressed. It ******* jumps horribly like it is having muscle spasms or some ****. I am so pissed off right now. I want to torch the thing. 10 percent of the time it accelerates like it should. The Haines manual is ******* useless. I don't want to take it to Honda because they don't like to work on engine swaps with rewiring. Which I don't ******* understand because it is still a HONDA MOTOR! Guys, this is my last attempt at this, someone please please give me an insight here. You will read about me in the newspaper next week killing everyone if I don't figure this out by then.

Sincerely,
Travis Hagler <-- There is my name so you can watch the newspapers....:'(

 

ROFL...glad I live clear across the states from you...but I got same problem with mine and Its one my injectors and maybe the fuel pump....so check your injectors...and its not tossing any codes at you at all???

 

try a different dizzy

 

Shure that you dont get the error code for speed sensor? and tps had the problem before to. It was missfiring and kinda shooting when you hit the trottle past 20%..
Check that all your sensors is operating..

 

NO CELS. Just embarassing driving performance. I have got a CEL after 5k rpms a few times last week but it disappeared when I shut the car off and I can't jump the blue connector underneath the glove box to check the CEL I got last week because it the check engine light never flashes or anything when I do it.

I want to replace the dizzy and fuel pump and pray that it fixes it. But $500 dollars later it might not fix it and I have thrown away so much money tossing parts at this thing that I could buy a new engine. All the mechanics around here are ******* stupid and don't seem to want to help me.

I know you guys can not give me an accurate answer over the internet without actually driving the car and feeling the problem. However anything helps at this point. A lot of people say to stop whining, it is just a car, just drive it. But they don't understand. I am like you drive it for a week ******* and see how it feels. It is not just a car, it is the only thing I have that is worth anything. I have to get it running right before I can move on with my life. This ******* sucks. This is quite possibly the worst day of my life and it is not even noon yet.

 

check the rotor in your dizzy... mine did that **** too and it was loose like a bitch changed it and its all good now!

 

Ok, I think I might have just got a praise from God here. I would only give him credit if I fixed this problem because God knows I have cursed him enough. I was driving around my car wishing I could race this GT-Mustang up ahead, however knowing that I suffer from intermitten power loss I wouldn't try. So I pulled into my neighbourhood and my car starts to do that bucking at low rpms, and it shuts off. HOLY ****! I try to start it and it starts but idles at 100 rpms for few seconds then shuts off again. I try to start it again, nothing, again nothing, again nothing. I have fuel, and air.

Hmmmm.....DISTRIBUTOR!??!?!? I am on my way to purchase a new distributor but I need to know which one to get...I have a B16A with a 2000 Honda Civic SI HEAD. The wiring was redone to OBD-I. Which distributor should I purchase for this little beasty?? Are 2000 Civic SI's OBD-I? That would be easy to locate a distributor for.

 

obd1 = 94-95 gsr


the 2000 SI was obd2

are you sure your injectors aren't leaking? sounds like when I had my DSM's in and they did exactly what you were talking about. Also have you pulled the plugs to see if they are fouled?

 

your fuel pressure should stay around whatever stock is for a while

we always tested **** like that at votec, it shouldnt drop more than about 2-5psi in 15mins, and shouldnt drop more thn about 10-15psi over a hour or 2

 

Why would the fuel pump hold pressure with the car on, but not with it when it's off? That is weird.

I REPLACED MY DISTRIBUTOR THE CAR STILL DOESN'T START. I am scared now. Because I don't know where to begin tracing a problem like this. I checked the spark plugs and of course I am getting no spark and that is why the car won't start. The distributor is turning but producing no spark......Wtf could this be?

 

It would be nice if you could bring to the shop here in orlando so we could take a look at it..we specilize in CRXs.

I am gonna make a couple of stabs here though to try to help you solve your problem.

now you said after putting in the pump you had problems...so lets start there, there is a gasket (large o shaped one) that goes on the top of the fuel tank when you swapped to the other fuel tank...it could be leaking pressure and giving this problem. Also make sure all the hoses down there when checking that gasket are tight and secure and free of leaks. It would be a good idea to fix the pressure problem first. After that, your still having issues you might want to send the injectors into RC to have them serrviced. One or more might be dumping to much fuel or somthing and makiing the car run erratic. although your not thowing a o2 code so I am thinking most of the issue is with a improper install of the pump.

I hope this helped....let me know of any progress.

peace

 

check the injectors, they've gotta be leaking and flooding the engine.. same thing happens alot on RX-7's, my fuel pressure doesnt go below 50 even after 2 day's sitting so obviously you have a problem.. make sure the engine isnt flooded and check the injectors to see that there not leakin

 

I cannot figure out why on earth you didn't just get on Ebay and buy the electric motor to the fuel pump assembly? Its litterally $13 and would fix your problem. I know this thread is 10 years old but seriously your throwing all thia money into it when it sounds obvious its a $13 fuel pump. Car missfiring and intermittenly losing power and symptoms getting worse, it means fuel pressure is low. My god man, how have you not figured this out?

 

That is not weird, the fuel pump only works when the car ignition is in position 2 right before startup and while the car is running. The valve is leaking so even while running it barely puts out any pressure or the electric motor is going out. How do you not know how a fuel pump works, geez?