Hello,
So Finally got my car back - rebuilt yet again and seems to be running fine, except I am having the same problem as I was before it went into the shop. It seems like I can drive it around normally (without letting the boost kick in) and it wont throw any cel but as soon as I boost it a couple times the check engine light will come on and I can't rev past 3000 rpm without it sputtering out and bucking, it just won't accelerate. This only happens when the needle hits 3k. I know I have a bad o2 sensor (which is one of the codes) and the other reads "ignition system or misfire" could this be cause of the o2 sensor? or something else?
Thanks

Boosted 2000 accord f23 sleeves, pistons, rods, etc....

 

I suspect what you're seeing is the "Ignition Missfire" is causing the O2 Sensor to go out-of-range and the system switches to Failsafe (limits timing advance and available RPM)
You may be having an issue where when boost is applied, the 'fire' may be going out in several cylinders intermittantly.
What EMS and/or Ignition Mods have you got there?

P

 

I'd like to know what plugs you are running and the gap.

 

I am currently using the AFC hack (yes i know its garenteed to give some problems) but i've never had any of these probs before.... Have a chipped ECU, OBD1 conversion harness and OBD1 IACV ready to go in, I'm planning on using Uberdata..... However, before I bring the car to the tuners, they want it running perfect.... I'm using standard plugs... maybe platinum, eathier way, they are the same as i used before when everything was working fine. The comp ration is 8.5-1 Also.... before the car went in, i had to crank the idle way up because it would stall practically at every stop. I turned it way down last night a drove for a little bit with no real problems yet..... I believe that due to the bad o2 sensor, the car will occasionally rev from 1000-1500rpm while sitting (and really fast) I am absolutely sure that it is a bad o2 sensor, I have the $3000 snap-on Code reader and its telling me the the "heater" in the o2 sensor is not turning on.

Thanks for your help guys....

 

This engine misfire, sounds like what my car is doing. Actually it's my brothers car and he's done a few modifications to it his self. But to the point.....if we have replaced an o2 sensor and its still spitting and stalling, whats the next step?
In lamens terms please. I've had the suggestion it could be the sender? I dont know what that is....but if you do please e-mail me directly at Patricia@rightsolution.com. Only serious responses please.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shwanky420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am currently using the AFC hack

I'm using standard plugs... maybe platinum, eathier way, they are the same as i used before when everything was working fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>
first off, GET SOME COLDER PLUGS IMMEDIATELY! you're flirting with disaster with stock heat range plugs. I won't even get into the hack, I can't believe you're risking a built motor running the ******* hack. but whatever, it's your car.

NGK ZFR7F-11. BUY SOME NOW.

what are your plugs gapped to? gap them to .028-.030, NO BIGGER. a bigger gap could easily cause a misfire under boost.

what are your settings on the AFC?

what injectors are you running?

you don't have any check valves installed on the map sensor, right?

answer these questions and I can help you more. -B

 

Yes... I'm ver ashamed to be running the HACK Especially with a built motor.....
The settins are -35 everything and the wideband tells me that the A/F is perfect even under boost.
I have 440cc injectors
No i do not have any check valves installed on the map sensor.
Im driving it around but not letting the turbo spool.... is this still risky?

Thanks

 

sounds like your setup is ok.

you should be fine driving around w/o spooling the turbo, that's how I pass inspection every year.

have you checked your plug gap? that definitely could be the problem.