ok this is the deal. i took my iacv out. i blocked off the manifold an capped off the coolant lines. i left the the valve it self plugged it so i wont get code. well everything is fine. when i start it in the morrning its kinda low on the idel. 550rpm or so. but after it warms up its good. i just did this because I need the space for the nitrous. well the other day i was at a stop light an got a cel. as soon as i stepped on the gas the car started to "buck". i pull over an got a iacv code? it also did this again when it was parked outside of startbucks. my question is why? if everything is blocked off an capped, why would this happen. would i need to block off the holes on the valve it self? would that help any for what ever reason? do i need a resistor inline of the iacv? i dont know. need some help please

this is a 01 prelude by the way

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DrivinVtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok this is the deal. i took my iacv out. i blocked off the manifold an capped off the coolant lines. i left the the valve it self plugged it so i wont get code. well everything is fine. when i start it in the morrning its kinda low on the idel. 550rpm or so. but after it warms up its good. i just did this because I need the space for the nitrous. well the other day i was at a stop light an got a cel. as soon as i stepped on the gas the car started to "buck". i pull over an got a iacv code? it also did this again when it was parked outside of startbucks. my question is why? if everything is blocked off an capped, why would this happen. would i need to block off the holes on the valve it self? would that help any for what ever reason? do i need a resistor inline of the iacv? i dont know. need some help please

this is a 01 prelude by the way</TD></TR></TABLE>

I took mine out as well. Only I get 1400rpm idle. I can't set it any lower w/ the idle screw or the throttle stop block.... would like some shed on this from anyone?

 

fitv seems to be your problem. o yeah...nice way to jack the thread. heheh but ill help. take you intake off an block the TB hole with you finger. youll see a small inside when u do this. thats the hole. if the idle drops...thats the problem. just removel the fitv an block it off. also cap off the coolant lines. let me know.


anyone help on my problem!!!

 

got some new info on the iacv.

im lookin at the first picture on the valve. there are 2 holes going to the manifold. one said "to intake manifold" an the other said "air cleaner".

whats would be air cleaner? im thinking if i block off one of these holes it might trick the computer some how.

im thinking a resister will also work. just need some techies to look at this an see what you all come up with.

 

i know some can help

 

up

 

Im having a similar problem too. But I have a skunk 2 throttle body, I tried blocking off all the ports, disconnecting everything and cant get the code to go away.

Any of you guys have any ideas on this???

 

try jacking open the idle screw to get it to idle when its cold, this might make it a little high when its warm but oh well.

I think the problem is your computer knows its idling too low and when it tries to correct it with the iacv nothing happens, so it thinks that the valve must be the prob.

Youre right by blocking off where the valve bolts on to the manifold but blocking the holes on the iacv wont make a difference if its just relocated off to the side somewhere.

On your pic where it says air cleaner, that passage when bolted to the manifold weaves up and over the top of the plenum inside the casting and comes out as the top hole on the left when looking into the throttle body. the second hole when looking into the tb goes below to the coolant bypass which sort of does the same thing as the iacv only its non electronic and runs off coolant temp.

If I would make an adapter to relocate the iacv and keep its functionality would anyone be interested?

 

The IACV receives voltage FROM the ECU but it doesn't send any signal back. You said that you capped the coolant lines. Maybe you have something downstream that still needs coolant to function properly once the engine is warm. cpforyou, this could be your FITV problem. Maybe instead of capping those lines you should run a hose between the open fittings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The IACV receives voltage FROM the ECU but it doesn't send any signal back.</TD></TR></TABLE>

right it doesnt recieve an electrical signal back but it expects the idle to adjust when it tells it to and when it doesnt respond it suspects that something is wrong.

 

how about you put the iacv back where is shold be. that would stop the code. and make your car run normal. heat up faster. not be shitty. why would u need to remove the iac to put nos on ur car??? yea...i really dont understand that at all. unless you were trying to inject the nos into the manifold thru the iac. which is retarted.

 

I'm guessing he wants to put the solenoid there and the plumbing and stuff.

 

Can the IACV cause the car to misfire? Im just wondering cause he mentioned it bucking. Mine just started bucking and acting stupid on occasion just like if the plugs were fouled. Cant be the plugs cause i replaced them and still have this mysterious problem....

 

nos???no i have zex. its direct port kits. the iacv is right in my way. thats why i need to move it.

 

correct

 

i think im going to make a relocation adapter. any ideas on how to make one?