Spun a Rod Bearing. what are my options?
i am in the process of searching. ok well i found out today i spun a rod bearing, and another was starting to flake. there were no signs of oil pressure loss or anything, just a faint tick. the thing is, compression yeilded 180+ across the board. so that would mean the scarring on the cylinder walls is not severe enough to hurt compression. so can i just replace the bearings with oversized? what options to i have besides replacing the engine?
Jared
<FONT SIZE="4">PICS 8 POSTS DOWN!!!</FONT>
Modified by 95greenlude at 11:50 AM 1/18/2006
Jared
<FONT SIZE="4">PICS 8 POSTS DOWN!!!</FONT>
Modified by 95greenlude at 11:50 AM 1/18/2006
Well take the block to a machine shop. And if you're lucky they could hone it, and use the same size bearings. But if not you'll have to get bearings that are a little oversized.
I would try to drive the car as little as possible as it sounds like your motor is savable. The problem is only going to get worse. I would just decide now whether you want to save that motor or swap in an h22, hybrid, ect...
the engine is in shambles as of now, thats how i know i spun 1, and am beginning to spin another. i will go into the shop tomorrow and take pictures
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> If you keep going, you risk losing your crank as well. Stop now. </TD></TR></TABLE>
the oil pan has been dropped....the car is not drivable. the bearing are sitting on a bench...
the oil pan has been dropped....the car is not drivable. the bearing are sitting on a bench...
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From: land of the sheep, home of the hypocrite
Depending how bad it is, you may be able to service the crank and put it back together with new bearings. You didn't say what the engine is, but if it's a H23 you can get a crank from a F22 at a junk yard to replace it.
engine is a H23 sorry.
**pics **
the car wasnt on the lift, so there was no way of taking pictures of the crank itself. the mechanic said the crank just looked a bit "shiney" and he is unsure of wear, or if any at all. ALL of the other bearings are PERFECT, no wear or signs of wear. on my last engine when the Bearings spun, they got thinner and thinner until they finally just spun. these just cracked and spun. WHAT CAUSES THAT? excessive heat? oil starvation?
Flakes in Oil Pan

the #1 Rod Bearing. Both sides.

Again
**pics **
the car wasnt on the lift, so there was no way of taking pictures of the crank itself. the mechanic said the crank just looked a bit "shiney" and he is unsure of wear, or if any at all. ALL of the other bearings are PERFECT, no wear or signs of wear. on my last engine when the Bearings spun, they got thinner and thinner until they finally just spun. these just cracked and spun. WHAT CAUSES THAT? excessive heat? oil starvation?
Flakes in Oil Pan

the #1 Rod Bearing. Both sides.

Again
wow they all look pretty bad
you could get away with machining the crank and rods and mains but i would also do new rings and a hone while i was in there, 180 is ok but if i was there i would go ahead and do it...
you could get away with machining the crank and rods and mains but i would also do new rings and a hone while i was in there, 180 is ok but if i was there i would go ahead and do it...
well i told them to just buy oversized bearings and make sure the crank has minimal-no wear. and hopefully it will last until i can get my hands on a H22 or H23 longblock.
CHECK SIGvvv
CHECK SIGvvv
rod knock is caused by bearings being shot? cuz i think mine are, and im digging in this weekend. dont mean to hijack but do you have to take out crank to get to the rod bearings? or just the oil and pan?
If you really want the cheap route just to get you up and running agin get a used F22 block and swap the head over. I did my conversion for less than $400 on an almost new F23. It is cheap and easier than tearing the block apart to machine the crank.
IMO the most important thing that you can do is to flush out EVERY oil galley to get the spun bearing junk out of there and then machine the stock crank (or replacement) to make sure it is all in good order then put it back together. you should be good if you still have good compression.
Pirate
IMO the most important thing that you can do is to flush out EVERY oil galley to get the spun bearing junk out of there and then machine the stock crank (or replacement) to make sure it is all in good order then put it back together. you should be good if you still have good compression.
Pirate
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