b16a2 w/ 12:8:1 compression question
ok, i have a b16a2 built from the ground up.I also milled the head to get me from 11:8:1 to a little less than 12:8:1. I have to run premium fuel, which is 90 octane here, and octane boosters. I know with high compression like that and me racing I will build up carbon on my valves right? other places? Any methods ANYONE has for keeping your internal engine clean (without having to take apart my engine all the time) and running good will be GREATLY apreciated. I really need help on this one! Also, is there any specific REALLY GOOD oil i shoud run with my motor? it only has 500 miles on it rebuilt. Plz help!
Thats high compress man.. Sorry i dont have any help. What numbers you puttin down with the motor?
Edit: I work at sears and in the automotive department, they have this new engine system cleaner, it costs 70 bucks but they do a good job of cleaning it.
Edit: I work at sears and in the automotive department, they have this new engine system cleaner, it costs 70 bucks but they do a good job of cleaning it.
Yeah, seafoam is a great cleaning agent.
I don't know if it's meant for these applications, but Royal Purple oil is supposed to be very good, though extremely expensive ($6 or $7 a quart.)
I don't know if it's meant for these applications, but Royal Purple oil is supposed to be very good, though extremely expensive ($6 or $7 a quart.)
I have a 1994 honda civic hatch vx with the b16a2 full swap.I have skunk 2 intake manifold,dcsports 4:2:1 header,type r valve cover,type r cam gears and shafts, skunk 2 titanium springs,titanium retainers,titanim valves, JE 11:8:1 compression pistons and rods,i milled the head and brought it from 11:8:1 to really close to 12:8:1,new honda distributer,timing belt,tensioner,oilpump,water pump,alternator,temp. sensor,coolant temp. sensor,Vtec cyl., oil pressure sensor, head gasket, all new seals and gaskets. all that from honda brand new. (not from honda ----) ) block guard, lsd trasmission,stage 3 clutch, toda light weight flywheel,aem v2 cold air intake, chipped p28 ecu,750 cc injectors,aem fuel rail, aem fuel pressure regulator,aem fuel and oil filter, ngk iridium plugs, msd sci ignitior, msd blaster 3 coil, msd 8.5mm super conductor plug wires and new radiator with type r cap.
I've used it personally but not on a high comp engine or anything.
on a B16A. I did it some time during the early summer of 05. Engine still runs fine. I didn't really notice anything though
on a B16A. I did it some time during the early summer of 05. Engine still runs fine. I didn't really notice anything though
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From: University of Massachusetts, Amherst, Ma, US of A
Wish I knew man. What are you using for spark plugs and oil?
Modified by JayDiemB16aCivic at 3:07 PM 1/13/2006
im using ngk iridium and im using the oil that is meant for my engine strait from honda. I just got done puting on a new thicker head gasket to add back on what i milled from the head and my ecu is being redone right now becuz with the thicker head gasket it advanced the timing. so my ecu is being reprogrammed as we speek.
I call BS. here is a B18C with 12.5
Engine
AJR B18C-R
Displacement
1.8L
Compression Ratio
12.5:1
Balance & Blueprint Block
AJR
Piston
AJR Forged (81.5mm)
Connecting Rod
Spoon (balanced)
Crankshaft
AJR (balanced and knife edged)
Headbolt
Spoon
Oil Pump
Spoon
Oil Pan
Spoon
Oil Drain Bolt
Spoon Magnetic
Oil Cap
Spoon
Throttlebody
AJR 70mm - 64mm
Camshaft
Spoon
Cam Gear
Spoon
Sparkplug Wire
Spoon High Tension Plug Wire
Sparkplug
Spoon Iridium Racing Plugs
Port & Polish Head
AJR
Intake Manifold
AJR Ported B18C-R 98spec
Valvespring
B18C-R 98spec
Rocker Arm
B18C-R 98spec
Valve Spring
Spoon High Tension Valve Springs
Valve
AJR Polished Valve
Retainer
AJR Titanium Retainer
Crank Pulley
JDM Civic Type R N1
ECU
AJR SPL
Battery
T1R Lightweight Battery
Grounding Kit
T1R Power Earthing System
Intake
J's Racing Tsuchinoko
Header
Spoon 4-2-1
Test Pipe
T1R
Exhaust B-Pipe
T1R
Exhaust Muffler
T1R
Engine Mount
Spoon
Oil Catch Can
SRR
Valve Cover
B18C-R 98spec
Plug Cover
Spoon
Engine Oil
Motul 300V 5W-40
Engine
AJR B18C-R
Displacement
1.8L
Compression Ratio
12.5:1
Balance & Blueprint Block
AJR
Piston
AJR Forged (81.5mm)
Connecting Rod
Spoon (balanced)
Crankshaft
AJR (balanced and knife edged)
Headbolt
Spoon
Oil Pump
Spoon
Oil Pan
Spoon
Oil Drain Bolt
Spoon Magnetic
Oil Cap
Spoon
Throttlebody
AJR 70mm - 64mm
Camshaft
Spoon
Cam Gear
Spoon
Sparkplug Wire
Spoon High Tension Plug Wire
Sparkplug
Spoon Iridium Racing Plugs
Port & Polish Head
AJR
Intake Manifold
AJR Ported B18C-R 98spec
Valvespring
B18C-R 98spec
Rocker Arm
B18C-R 98spec
Valve Spring
Spoon High Tension Valve Springs
Valve
AJR Polished Valve
Retainer
AJR Titanium Retainer
Crank Pulley
JDM Civic Type R N1
ECU
AJR SPL
Battery
T1R Lightweight Battery
Grounding Kit
T1R Power Earthing System
Intake
J's Racing Tsuchinoko
Header
Spoon 4-2-1
Test Pipe
T1R
Exhaust B-Pipe
T1R
Exhaust Muffler
T1R
Engine Mount
Spoon
Oil Catch Can
SRR
Valve Cover
B18C-R 98spec
Plug Cover
Spoon
Engine Oil
Motul 300V 5W-40
Certain gas stations carry fuel that tends to have less carbon buildup (it was an article in a Super Street from last year). With that compression ratio the easiest way to clean it out is to run Cam2, Turbo Blue, or even race fuel. Even at almost 12 to 1 compression you should mix race fuel with the 90 octane so that your valves don't ping. I run a mix of Turbo Blue and 93 in my hatch on my street tune and straight racing gas on race tune. When I tore it apart to refresh it, my motor had no carbon buildup at all.
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