BASICALLY i went to hook this thing up to my hatch, and my buddy that i got it from had cut the wires, i but connected them thinking they would be fine until i get to my solder gun. Well the afr's stay at like 14.0 part throttle and wide and when it goes lean for letting off the gas pedel it's delayed like hell
Does anyone think this is just from using butt connectors and the sensor goes by resistance or sound like something else is wrong, the car has a real nice tune on it so thats really odd.
thanx in advance!!!!
by the way it has a chasis ground with 12v ignition source so thats all good

 

You should definitely solder those wires, that's most likely your problem.

Also, where do you have the o2 sensor positioned and is it a new sensor or an old one? I think the o2 sensor typically has a life span of ~25,000 miles and even less if you're running extremely rich or burn a lot of oil. If it's an older sensor, it might need replaced.

 

Try a different ground, like ECU ground or battery ground.

 

Only ground the Wideband to battery terminal. These sensors are very dependant on a solid stable ground. Chassis ground will not cut it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by msmotorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Only ground the Wideband to battery terminal. These sensors are very dependant on a solid stable ground. Chassis ground will not cut it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought you were supposed to get the lead and ground from the ECU lead/ground. Or is the ECU ground considered a battery ground?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Everyones Hero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I thought you were supposed to get the lead and ground from the ECU lead/ground. Or is the ECU ground considered a battery ground?</TD></TR></TABLE>

AEM directions specially say to ground it to the - of the battery.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 11psiTurboSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">AEM directions specially say to ground it to the - of the battery.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, I guess you can't go wrong with the manufacturer's directions.

 

aight you guys are gonna love this one!!!
soldered the connections and it seems to be working
the car has a 3in kteller exhaust and the wideband id say is maybe 25-30 in away from turbo
BUT
i just got the dyno sheet from the kid i got the car from and the afr's on the sheet look horrible from starting at 3500 rpms the afr's are basically 14.0 all the way to 6500 where it finally drops to 12.2 -12.0 at the 7500 redline
keep in mind this is a stock ls
so i guess the wideband is ok cuz it does redd 14.0 and the same numbers like the dyno sheet so i just compared the 2 and seems to be working.

i need somone to get another pump gas tune on this car asap for uberdata
the tune thats on it is aparently race gas so i am gonna try some tonight and hopefully that will drop these afr's i HOPE!!!!
go ahead everyone can flame and comments are more welcomed!!!
thanx jason

 

Race gas won't lower your AFRs, it'll prevent pre-detonation.

Right now your biggest issue with your AFR being 14:1 is that your EGTs are going to be very high.

 

RIGHT!!!
my question is can i put a fpr on it untill i get the new chip and bump it up maybe 5-10 psi until the afr's drop, or the egt's cuz i do have to put my probe on it anyway.
i didn't know if i could do that or not so i think i might try an fpr and bump it up a little
thanx for the reply man!!

 

If you have a FPR I'd go ahead and try. Raising the pressure a bit should drop the AFRs at least a little bit.

Do you have a chip burner for Uberdata?

If so you could add 10% to all of the boost cells on the current map to richen things up a bit.

What size turbo are you using? How much boost are you running?

 

t3/t4 57trim running 7psi-13psi
nothing serious yea i know nothing about uberdata i don't even know what i need to hook the laptop up or i would be buying it now, i understand that you have to burn the chip and all but i just don't get how you link in the laptop to do the acutal tuning with a usbport but where does it go on the ecu.
sorry for the noob q's but im new to standalone i have always done vafc with fmu.

 

If you took the cover off of your ECU you would should see a black chip sitting in a blue connector thing.

That'll be the chip for uberdata.

-What you do is go to moates.net and buy the BURN1. That plugs into your laptop. You install the drivers for the burn1 and it's all set to go.

-Next you download and install uberdata (I'm running v1.7). You make your map in uberdata and save the file.

-You'll load the map into the moates burner thing through the computer interface

-Put chip into burner and press the burn button. Your chip is burnt.

It's really an easy process. You can even load the map that is on your current chip and save it onto your computer. If you had a way to send me your map I'd richen up your boost portions for you.

If your only running 7psi I wouldn't worry too much about it. If you have a boost controller just set the thing to run at 7psi and enjoy the hell out of it until you can have it retuned.

 

yea thats what i was think for 7psi just playin round shouldn't hurt her like i said there are no signs of detonation i pulled the plugs at the redline in 3rd gear and she looks good. the guy that tuned her said he's too busy this week and has no chips if i could get him to send the pump gas tune to you, any way you think you could burn it for me and ill pay for the chip and a couple bucks for doin it for me??