hey, i was wondering if i had to take out the oil jet off the a6 block if i had a y8 head??? and when i torue the head bolts, do i set the bolts as a y8 or the a6??

 

Yes, you need to take the oil jet out.

When you torque the head bolts, what do you mean by setting the bolts?

 

like when you are torqueing the bolts on the head. the long bolts that goes from your head to your block. you do have to torque it don't you???

 

Yes, you have to torque them to a certain ft/lb which I forget off the top of my head.

 

is all d series torqueing the same???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ef8sleepr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is all d series torqueing the same???</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not sure, never took the head off any D-series besides a z6 which is 52 ft/lbs i believe.

 

Yes, pull the oil jet from the block.

Some of the holes will require longer headbolts because the head has different hole heights as compared to the a6 head. beware

 

how about you have the y8 head bolts??? should there be a problem??? and i'm doing the rpm switch to activate my vtec... is it hard to install??

 

On my past mini-me's, I used the VTEC head bolts and torqued them to the spec required for the VTEC head. Never had any problems with them. I would advise against using an rpm activated switch as it will not provide the correct fueling and ignition as would a VTEC ecu would.

 

use arp's z6 headstuds , a couple of the y8 studs aren't long enough
as far as the vtec switch goes....I am using an Msd switch.
I am not fond of the switch, I agree with redline.
Find a better method.

 

was it hard to install the msd switch??? and how does it work??? do you just hook it on and set it on a certain rpm or something? or is it like a switch or button you have to push?? and what's arp's? sorta new to this...

 

not all d series head torgue numbers are the same, not sure off the top of my head but a manual is key, or do a search here. gl

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ef8sleepr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">was it hard to install the msd switch??? and how does it work??? do you just hook it on and set it on a certain rpm or something? or is it like a switch or button you have to push?? and what's arp's? sorta new to this...</TD></TR></TABLE>




here are some old pics of my swap
its been a while but the rpm switch isn't that hard to do, if you can swap a head then a couple wires aren't that hard.
You can goto the MSD forums to help you install them
I took pics of the arp head studs

 

so on a a6 block and y8 i would get arp z6 bolts???just want to clear that up before i go buy them for my swap thanks...

 

yes, I do not know why this is because I called ARP before I ordered them in order to get the correct part number. I gave them all of the parameters i.e. head, block, gasket thickness, ect & they assured me y8 studs were correct. NOPE!!! I bought y8 head studs and all I know is they didn't work. It was like 2-4 holes where the studs were too short.

I called round to a few local shops & found out that z6 studs were needed for the swap. I had a guy (mark?) @ 1.6 Motorsports tell me that the y8 studs were too short . He had done a few swaps and came to the same conclusion. Also thanks to MikeySpec (H-T member) on this one as well, he sent me to Mark.

Afterward, I called ARP Technical Assistance before I went and bought another non-functional set, they had no clue. They never heard of someone using z6 studs for that application. In fact ,they said they never designed the studs for 'hybrid' applications.

SO, I took the chance. It worked.

In the end, I spent $200 when all I needed was 1 set