1997 Honda Accord LX manual tranny

When i turn my key on to start it, Starter clicks but dont start. I checked plugs and wires, checked battery and all terminals connected to and from starter. Tried banging on it a lil bit, and it still wouldnt start. Do i need a new starter?
I guess now i have 3 questions:
1) How can i make sure that it is a starter for sure
2) How much should a starter job run me approx in Maryland
3) How hard is it to replace yourself?

Please any input would be appreciated/ Thanks

 

I'm in MD also but I'm in SoMD. I just helped the lady downstairs from me with the exact same problem. Have somebody jumpstart your battery and then see if that helps. It could be a low battery or it could be the starter relay. Also make sure the connections on your battery are very tight to get you a good connection.

 

try jumping the car, if that dosent work then I would look at the starting system (starter, relays, wiring, etc)

 

how much is a relay? Cuz jump starting it didnt help.

 

sounds like a starter to me.

it's very easy to replace, 2 bolts and a couple of wires.

 

If you don't have a volt meter, you want to consider taking the battery down to an Autozone and getting it tested. If a battery has a shorted cell sometimes it will keep you from being able to jump. Another thing that will prevent a jump is corroded terminals or cables or cables that have 'Black Rot' . The copper will turn black sometimes for a foot or more inside the insulation and will not carry current. At least pull the starter and take it with you to have it tested before you buy one. It would be easier to get a voltmeter if you don't have one and learn to use it if you don't already know. It would take just a couple of minutes to figure out your problem.

 

I would not use a voltmeter to test the battery....all that will show is the voltage which is not enough info. You need to have it tested with a battery load tester, which the idiots at Auto-Zoo can do for you if you don't want to buy one. Have that done first before you jump to any conclusions about it being your starter.

 

Very simple test to determine starter / battery involvement.
Jump the vehicle from a known good vehicle (or use a booster battery) wired this way:
a) Positive cable (Red) +Battery terminal to +Battery Terminal.
b) Negative Cable connection (Black) -Battery terminal to any steel -ground connection in recipient vehicle

This effectively bypasses the recipient vehicles battery from the circuit; both cars are operating off the donor vehicle.

Try starting the recipient vehicle.
If it starts, the problem lies with <U>Battery/Cables/Connections or Ignition Switch</U>
If it doesn't, the problem lies with the <U>Starter</U>].

P

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RiceRocketDave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would not use a voltmeter to test the battery....all that will show is the voltage which is not enough info. You need to have it tested with a battery load tester, which the idiots at Auto-Zoo can do for you if you don't want to buy one. Have that done first before you jump to any conclusions about it being your starter.</TD></TR></TABLE>It's worked for me on dozens and dozens of cars for 25 years. You haven't even been alive that long. People like you DO need to go to autozone. By the way, a good volt meter will read DC amps as well as voltage. The fact is you don't know jack about electricity or how to troubleshoot with a meter and your just regurgitating what someone told you or what some kid on one of these forums wrote.

 

Without the editorial comments,
I have to agree. I've been forever surprised what I could diagnose with an ice pick, a multimeter, a test light, a ten amp circuit breaker and an inductive amp meter (oh, and a screwdriver)
Testing alternators with a screwdriver
Locating pinched wires with a circuit breaker and an inductive amp meter
Testing for shorted Battery cells with an ice pick and a multimeter

Those were the days !!!

P

 

Ah yes, and jumpstarting cars with a single coathanger between the positives......metal bumpers touching, of course.

 

Yeh, and the look on this kids face when I proved I could deform a steel engine block with no more than the clamping force between my thumb and my middle finger. (A discussion on the worth of torque/boring plates when boring out a block)

God! am I that old??

P

 

if you have a volt meter......hook it at the pos wire at the starter you should get battery voltage,,, if not battery or cables issues,, if you do, hook volt meter at solenoid wire, have someone try to start car, if you get voltage at starter solenoid wire you got a bad starter.........I have had bad starter that dont turn over even if you bang on them .and others, you got to bang on them a few extra times

 

What if my battery is down at 11.7 volts<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda-Master &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have a volt meter......hook it at the pos wire at the starter you should get battery voltage,,, if not battery or cables issues,, if you do, hook volt meter at solenoid wire, have someone try to start car, if you get voltage at starter solenoid wire you got a bad starter.........I have had bad starter that dont turn over even if you bang on them .and others, you got to bang on them a few extra times</TD></TR></TABLE>If you get ENOUGH voltage. Just any voltage won't do. Other than that, you are correct.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's worked for me on dozens and dozens of cars for 25 years. You haven't even been alive that long. People like you DO need to go to autozone. By the way, a good volt meter will read DC amps as well as voltage. The fact is you don't know jack about electricity or how to troubleshoot with a meter and your just regurgitating what someone told you or what some kid on one of these forums wrote.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good for you....I happen to be an electronics engineering major and know something about this stuff. This link should help you out a little

http://www.batteryuniversity.com/parttwo-41.htm

The reason a load tester is better to use is because it creates a LOAD on the battery which measures the battery's internal resistance...I assumed that this kid does not know enough about electronics to use a meter, judging by the original post, and that is why I recommended using a load tester which is much more user friendly.
Instead of having to run multiple tests with a meter you can run one simple test on a load tester. So you need to stop talking **** to people when you yourself really have no idea what you are talking **** about

 

Your link does nothing but support my position. 12 volt lead acid batteries do not like fluctuations in there state of charge. If I put a meter on a battery and it reads 11.7 to 11.9 it ain't going to crank a car. I don't have to put a load on it to know that. Maybe you aught to change your major or get some real world experience before you act like you know what your talking about. Like I said, your repeating something you've read. I don't work as a mechanic, by the way, I fix laboratory instruments. Slightly more complicated than a 12 volt circuit. I think I know what I'm talking about.

 

Yup, and I hold a Bachelors Degree in Computer Sciences; but that's not the point.
I see merit in EVERYTHING that's been suggested here, and I don't think we would be addressing this guys problem by getting into a "Who's got more Testosterone?" contest.

I have to assume the worst. If he had a Snap On Battery load tester, he won't be asking questions here. I assume he would have access to basic hand tools, a more than casual interest in this stuff and the smarts to ask questions to things he's not sure about.

That's why I offer 'either/or' diagnostic procedures to guide towards a determination. Case in point:
*Jump start procedure: Eliminates / Points to Starter depending on response
*Multimeter at battery posts: 13.8 to 14.4 volts w/engine running eliminates Alternator as problem.
*Multimeter at battery posts: 11.8 to 12.5 volts w/engine running condemns Alternator as problem.
*Multimeter at battery posts: 10.0 volts w/engine off condemns Battery - shorted cell.

It's when these tests are evaluated together that a person with rudimentary tools can determine what's going on. "if it's not this, it must be that"

Now, if he should live right next to a DeathZoze Auto Parts Store, all this discussion is mute

P

All responses are valuable