I searched and searched and couldnt find a relevant post, sorry if this is a repeat.

I installed a new exhaust today and noticed the trailing arm bushings are toast in my 88 DX hatch. The only option I have found is a set of poly bushings from Prothane. I would rather have rubber, for the smoother ride, but have only found those in new arms, too $$ for me.

Are there any other options out there? Can anyone comment on the quality of product or ride quality of the Prothane bushings? Also, it looks like a bear to install. Can you leave the arm on the car, with brakes and so on or can you let it hang and I guess torch out the rubber one?

Any input is much appreciated!

Chris

 

yes you can use a torch to get the old one out, but how are you going to get the new one on with the arm still on the car. My advise would be to take the arm off the car and use a vise to put the new one in.

 

I did the Prothane rear trailing arm bushings on my '91 CRX. I'd recommend them if its in your budget, its a good quality part. Its a solid poly bushing that "floats" around a beefy metal rod. Not like the stock piece that is well... not solid, like the way the engine mounts look. I think the stock one wears out just because of the flex the design allows.

I didn't notice much difference either way in ride quality, but my car is pretty stiff and the old bushings were still in pretty good shape. Actually I would say that it shouldn't make that much of a difference, just because of where this part is. It is a subtle thing, nowhere near the effect of changing spring/strut qualities if that's what you're worried about.

But you really need a hydraulic press to get the old ones out/new ones in. I took the whole trailing arm/brake assembly off the car to the press. I imagine the torch works, but its a mess and then the metal shells still need to be pushed out and new parts need to be pushed in.

For alternatives, I believe Energy Suspension made replacements for just the stock rubber portion. So you reuse the original metal shells and the torch thing might work well here. This is the cheapest solution, I thought it was like ~$30 or so. (try http://www.suspension.com for a description)

Mugen made entire stock style replacements that used higher durometer rated rubber. (King Motorsports and OPM should have those) But these are about as much as the Prothanes.

And contrary to what some places say, you can get just the factory part without buying the whole trailing arm (try http://www.tpmpinc.com/) Didn't check the price, but probably in the middle.

-ac


[Modified by XrcR6, 10:14 AM 3/20/2002]


[Modified by XrcR6, 10:16 AM 3/20/2002]

 

Thanks a lot for your help. I suspected the arms needed to come off, guess I am just lazy. Anyway, it looks like for all the trouble it makes sense to get the prothane kit. I was/am leary of platic bushings in general. I had a set in my other car and they squeaked like crazy, rode hard and were noisy. Hopefully this wont be the same!

Thanks again

Chris

 

I got a brand new pair of trailing arm bushings in my closet....I think they're energy suspension...but they're the black, not the red (whatever material that is)...I can get more info on them tonight if you're interested. I'll let em go cheap since I've had em forever and dont have a use for em now...

 

Hmm....Jason I might be interested in them. My rear ones have been squeaking and are now shot. Let me know what they are made of and I might be interested.

 

Honda now provides just the rubber OEM bushings. Cost for a pair with shipping is about $75US from hparts.com. I got quotes of $180 to $250 labor only to replace them. I haven't done it yet, but should, and soon.

 

No prob. My Prothanes aren't squeaky (yet, crossed fingers). They give you grease and that metal tube has slight grooves in it to keep the grease there for a while. The bushing floats around the bar pretty well, before I put it in and without the grease the bushing spun freely about the bar. So I wouldn't expect them to bind and squeak unless you never greased them and something got inside to generate friction (very hard).

 

I also used the prothanes. You will need to remove the arms though. Disconnect the e-brake at the wheel if you can, they were a real bear on my crx, when you disconnect inside like I did, the brackets are quite difficult to get to. The metal shell on the bushings are tapered, like a cone. A couple of whacks with a hammer on the inboard side of the metal shell will remove it easily. The instructions explain this concerning installation. You will need a press though. Mine are about a year old and don't squeek yet.
HTH
chris

 

Thanks for the good info! As usual I cant decide what to do, but at least I know my options now.

Thanks again

Chris