zc tuning ??s
allright got the zc running great but there two things i don`t like one is the high idle when its cooled it has no high idle don`t no why... the other thing is the idle it self some times it`s right on 900 rpms then it`s up to 1300rpms and then next stop its 500 .. and i can`t find a screw to set the idle i`ve been useing the throdle cable to set it. oh ya and holly sh-t it`s hard on the clutch. pulls way harder than the dx
thats odd...my zc does almost the same thing at idle...when i start the car, it idles at 1700...after warming up, it varies from 750-900...but after driving in stop and go traffic, the idle is really erratic and goes anywhere from 750-2000...this problem drives me nuts!...can anyone help us out?...thanks!
If you look at the throttle body from the passenger fender with the air intake tube off. and about the 10 or 11 oclock position you will see a large brass screw About 3/8-1/2". Thats your Idle screw. Your throttle plate should shut fully so leave a little slack in the cable. The Idle speed it set using that, It is actually a air bypass around the throttle plate. The dashpot helps regulate the cold and hot idle. Hope that helps.
[Modified by virginia_dude, 8:56 AM 3/20/2002]
[Modified by virginia_dude, 8:56 AM 3/20/2002]
I had the same problem. Here is what I found, Keep in mind there is a LOT that can cause that. And the problem CAN be something else.
1: Replace your PCV valve if you don't remember when it was new. Depending on how it sticks can cause a huge vacume leak. or allow pressue to build up causing oil leaks
2: Make sure your idle screw is not out too far. Computer will try its best to compensate if its way out and cause this. (My screw almost fell out, that how I noticed it. And it was still running)
3: Clean your throttle body. You can have serious crud build up behind the plate and in some vacume ports. All cars need this done on occaision.
4: Clean the EACV. its in the back of the intake between the firewall and the motor. Clean the screen, use throttle body cleaner.
Check for any other vacume leaks. One or all of these may just solve your problem. They cured mine and it has more power now to boot.
[Modified by virginia_dude, 9:07 AM 3/20/2002]
[Modified by virginia_dude, 9:17 AM 3/20/2002]
1: Replace your PCV valve if you don't remember when it was new. Depending on how it sticks can cause a huge vacume leak. or allow pressue to build up causing oil leaks
2: Make sure your idle screw is not out too far. Computer will try its best to compensate if its way out and cause this. (My screw almost fell out, that how I noticed it. And it was still running)
3: Clean your throttle body. You can have serious crud build up behind the plate and in some vacume ports. All cars need this done on occaision.
4: Clean the EACV. its in the back of the intake between the firewall and the motor. Clean the screen, use throttle body cleaner.
Check for any other vacume leaks. One or all of these may just solve your problem. They cured mine and it has more power now to boot.
[Modified by virginia_dude, 9:07 AM 3/20/2002]
[Modified by virginia_dude, 9:17 AM 3/20/2002]
i`m useing a si ecu right now ... but mine is not as bad it don`t go up to 1700 about 1300 rpm it tops but it falls to 500 sometimes. i will check everthing out ...thanx guys now i should be able to set the idle instead of useing the cable..
I have a JDM ZC ECU. So it was the one used with this specific motor and not just a simular one. Si are the worst workable option from what I hear and the TEG unit is best unless you can get the ZC ecu which is the best as the mapping is dead on for the motor, BUT they aren't easy to find AND they have a 112 mph speed limiter programmed into it. Teg motors have different cams and are in heavier cars, optimum fuel mapping is not the same as the ZC ECU as the TEG ECU will have the motor running rich. Si works but the Si was a single cam motor and has different optimum carachteristics which is why it and the TEG ECU aren;'t the best options but will work. JDM ZC ECU's are scarce and you always have the option to have the Si or TEG ECU rechipped with the ZC fuel mapping, which is a good option as it gives you the same as the JDM ECU (after Chipping) but without the 112 MPH limiter.
[Modified by virginia_dude, 3:59 PM 3/21/2002]
[Modified by virginia_dude, 3:59 PM 3/21/2002]
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o.k . what about if i got a a/t zc ecu . wiil this work better than the si ecu i have both and never tried the zc because ita a auto ecu give a code 19
Unless you are running an auto stay away from the auto ECU's. You can get your Si rechipped for about $225 which gives you the ZC fuel mapping but will not have the 112 MPH cutoff all the JDM ECU's have. I believe you can do this with both the TEG and the Si ECU's. the whole problem with those are that the fuel mapping is different than the ZC but they are all 3 close enough they will actually work. Just not perfectly. Thats my personal opinion.
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