We finally got around to taking some video clips of actual comparisons between the (in)famous Autometer A/F guage VERSUS a true wideband O2 unit.

You'll notice in the video clip that even at idle, how WAY FAR off the Autometer gauge shows your a/f being. You'll see that on the WB display, the A/F sits pretty rock steady at 14.7, whereas the Autometer sweeps back and forth like crazy.

Keep in mind that this is only at IDLE.. the difference is even more apparent while driving.

I'll see we can get another clip with the car in motion at a later date.

http://www.c-speedracing.com/temp/autometervswb02.mpg

Enjoy.

 

i was under the impression that to have an accurate A/F meter in-car, you need a lot of expensive equipment...

 

Not necessarily... you can pick up a Motec unit for around $1300 now. The one shown in the mpg is a custom built WB02 unit from the DIY community. We've compared its' accuracy and verified it on a dynojet dyno wideband and a motec plm unit.

 

there is also a company in AUSTRALIA that has a kit that will cost you around $200. there are several people that have bought it and are currently putting it together or gettign ready to test and compare.

 

What do you think the one in the video is?

 

so how can i get the aussie unit.

 

I've got a contact that can get it for you.

-Alan

 

i think the most ACCURATE A/F you can buy is the HALMETER unit with its W/B O2 sensor for $180.

ive heard alot of good stuff about them.

 

Already have one on order...should cost <$180 after you get all the pieces put together.

 

Entire kit (unassembled) shipped to calif=$151. Requires assembly and the following Oxygen sensor@$117.75: Partsbin Total kit-assembly time = $268.75. Not too shabby for a "True" wideband.

 

My unit and sensor are both in the mail to me

Now I just need to weld another bung to my downpipe

 

You might consider one of the cats that SMSP is developing or probably already has out. It has an extra bung built in it for an O2 sensor.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=144608


[Modified by SpecR_EK, 4:24 AM 3/20/2002]

 

I've been waiting for someone to post results so I can order one.
SMSP cat is perfect for this.
Time to break open my piggy bank.

 

dont trust it , i almost blew my motor becuase i was told they are reliable, well i found out on the dyno. i was running hella lean and the meter said i was hella rich , so it was nowhere even close.

 

I assume your referring to the Autometer...Not the DIY wideband.

 

I don't have one nor will I ever have one.
So I trust it just about NONE.

Will

 

i wouldn't.... my halmeter gave me a "ballpark" reading compared to the wideband at the dyno. the halmeter indicated 2 bars rich when i was at 15 to 1! ouch.... i guess it's just a colorful light.....

 

ding ding ding

We have a winner!

Will

 

Autometer is useful for tuning closed-loop stuff, because that is what the ECU sees. Helps a lot for tuning perfect idle, etc. Else it's just a light show.

 

yea it looks pretty at night and when people roll u on me think im a space shipor some **** . . . . . effectiveness for tuning . . . 0, none , nada.
and yes i have the autometer , i hear now its not the greatest , , go figure.

 

anyone know how accurate is the greddy a/f gauge?

 

not very accurate since it does not have a wideband O2 sensor.

 

I was under the impression that at idle the ECU was running in closed loop and therefore taking the O2 reading and adjusting the fueling to get the most economical mixture, this also happens at cruising. The standard O2 sensor has a lot of sensitivity around 14.7 A/F and that's why it flutuates so much when this is happening the ECU gets a big voltage difference to use to decide if the mixture need weakening or richening up.

What is probably happening is the ECU is doing a very good job of keeping the A/F at 14.7 so the wide band unit is getting a steady reading, the standard O2 sensor is so sesitive round the 14.7 mark that it is crazily flicking back and forth with slight variations in A/F

I would not worru too much at idle, if it was doing it on acceleration or WOT then I would be worried.


[Modified by HardHead42, 6:42 PM 3/21/2002]