Need some advice on a 700+ whp b-series setup
OK I looking to build 700+ whp b-series engine for my 92 EG hatch, want to get some ideas or opinons. Here is what I got so far.
BLOCK:
B18a or b block
AEBS Sleeves
acl bearings
84mm aries or JE pistons
Full-Race(Manley) TurboTuff rods
stock crank may have some work done to it but not sure
golden eagle electric waterpump kit with idler blockoff
HEAD:
Stock b16 head
Skunk 2 valve springs and retainers
CTR cams
JG Victor X intake manifold
STR 68mm TB
TURBO SETUP:
Full-Race Proam turbo kit
Garrett gt40r or gt42r
2.5" intercooler piping (thinking about upgrading to 3")
Precision 750hp intercooler
Tial 44mm wastegate
Tial 50mm BOV
4" downpipe and full exhaust
FUEL SETUP:
Aeromotive Eliminator fuel pump
Aeromotive FPR
-10 feed and -8 return SS fuel lines
STR Fuel Rail
Ford Motorsport 160 lbs/hr injectors (about 1750cc) may be too big
TRANNY:
b16 tranny with aftermaket lsd, or ITR trannt
Don't know on the clutch or axels yet
ALL THE EXTRAS NOT LISTED ABOVE :
Hondata s200 or 300
MSD digital 6
BLOCK:
B18a or b block
AEBS Sleeves
acl bearings
84mm aries or JE pistons
Full-Race(Manley) TurboTuff rods
stock crank may have some work done to it but not sure
golden eagle electric waterpump kit with idler blockoff
HEAD:
Stock b16 head
Skunk 2 valve springs and retainers
CTR cams
JG Victor X intake manifold
STR 68mm TB
TURBO SETUP:
Full-Race Proam turbo kit
Garrett gt40r or gt42r
2.5" intercooler piping (thinking about upgrading to 3")
Precision 750hp intercooler
Tial 44mm wastegate
Tial 50mm BOV
4" downpipe and full exhaust
FUEL SETUP:
Aeromotive Eliminator fuel pump
Aeromotive FPR
-10 feed and -8 return SS fuel lines
STR Fuel Rail
Ford Motorsport 160 lbs/hr injectors (about 1750cc) may be too big
TRANNY:
b16 tranny with aftermaket lsd, or ITR trannt
Don't know on the clutch or axels yet
ALL THE EXTRAS NOT LISTED ABOVE :
Hondata s200 or 300
MSD digital 6
All I have as of right now is 92 eg hatch and a complete ODO1 b16 swap that I picked up for $1500. I plan to start on this project in a month or so, looking to spend 10-15k maybe more.
well I guess nobody has any input on this set up, I've been looking at the crower 2.23l stroker kit for my car but isn't 87mm bore a little large, most setups I've seen have been running at most 84.5 to 85mm.
yep...he's been reading honda-tech for sure. got every bandwagon covered 
you might want to rethink the ford 160lber's...they came from the propane powered cars...and i've been told by many ppl that tey aren't the greatest gasoline injectors....now, it might just have been them (boosted mustang guys around me) but..i know that some of them bought them since they're so cheap..and ended up selling every set that got put in a car locally

you might want to rethink the ford 160lber's...they came from the propane powered cars...and i've been told by many ppl that tey aren't the greatest gasoline injectors....now, it might just have been them (boosted mustang guys around me) but..i know that some of them bought them since they're so cheap..and ended up selling every set that got put in a car locally
I'd recommend building maybe a turbo stock B-series motor car before you try anything like this. It's like trying to teach a kid to run before they can walk.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tokes1320 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd recommend building maybe a turbo stock B-series motor car before you try anything like this. It's like trying to teach a kid to run before they can walk.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am in complete agreement
I am in complete agreement
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I see you plan to run a stock b16 head. Have you thought about having any work done on it.
Modified by T.J. at 9:47 PM 1/4/2006
Modified by T.J. at 9:47 PM 1/4/2006
Well a stock turbo B-series motor car is not going to cut it for me and yes I have been reading a lot on honda-tech cause 9 times out of 10 when you ask a question some smartass tells you to "SEARCH" so I did before hand. Granted this is going to be the first honda I have built but I have built many other cars. I currently have a LS1/T56 swapped 93 Mazda RX7.
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I was going to put together a 575+ rwhp 402 cid N/A setup for my FD but I'm thinking about building my 93 HB instead. Trying not to go overboard on the FD so it will stay fun to drive all of the time unlike my 436cid 520 rwhp N/A mustang that I had before the FD. http://www.corral.net/forums/s...02146
So know that you know I can run, what do I need inorder to FLY!!!!!
I think a 700+ whp honda should do the trick !!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tokes1320 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd recommend building maybe a turbo stock B-series motor car before you try anything like this. It's like trying to teach a kid to run before they can walk.</TD></TR></TABLE>
.jpg)
I was going to put together a 575+ rwhp 402 cid N/A setup for my FD but I'm thinking about building my 93 HB instead. Trying not to go overboard on the FD so it will stay fun to drive all of the time unlike my 436cid 520 rwhp N/A mustang that I had before the FD. http://www.corral.net/forums/s...02146
So know that you know I can run, what do I need inorder to FLY!!!!!
I think a 700+ whp honda should do the trick !!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tokes1320 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd recommend building maybe a turbo stock B-series motor car before you try anything like this. It's like trying to teach a kid to run before they can walk.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well I'm kinda curious on how much power can be made on a stock b16 head, I may pull it back off later and have it ported to see how much power is it acually worth.
nice rx7 man. i have been trying to find info online about putting an ls7 into one, but i can't find much. good luck with the honda buildup. with traction, a 700whp honda will be a 2jzkiller!
opening up the ports I think will definately be worthwhile at such a high (700+) power goal. I don't know what the higher #'s people are making with unported heads, but imo if it's a "full-race" setup, might as well work the head.
build list looks sweet to me, good luck
build list looks sweet to me, good luck
1.dump the ACL bearings get stock ones
2. CP pistons
3. ITR water pump
4. Turbo - i say whatver gives you your goals with the fastest spool. gt40-67
5. FR back door cooler 3" piping
6. a1000 pump
7. i have 1600cc and my idle is 1500rpm but other than that its fine
8. gsr trans with a Quaife
9 DSS stage 5s
10.STAND ALONE EMS, FAST, DFI, ANYTHING!!
2. CP pistons
3. ITR water pump
4. Turbo - i say whatver gives you your goals with the fastest spool. gt40-67
5. FR back door cooler 3" piping
6. a1000 pump
7. i have 1600cc and my idle is 1500rpm but other than that its fine
8. gsr trans with a Quaife
9 DSS stage 5s
10.STAND ALONE EMS, FAST, DFI, ANYTHING!!
If that's really your FD, you are crazy to build a civic but I love hondas so I can't knock it that bad. This car is going to be purely drag then right cuz I had 400whp ls and it spun 3rd on a hot summer day so...............definitely go with some form of the gt40r. The electric pump is definitely not necessary I would look into a 84mm bore to help spool and definitely head work if you have the money. There are many people out there making 600whp on stock heads but think about it, air in and air out, the better you can do that the more power you will make and quicker that turbo will spool. This is obviously very general so take it how you will. If you've done a GOOD search you know what I mean. For instance, boostfeds b16 that made 714whp on 32psi definitely couldnt have made those numbers on stock head. I believe he picked up 60whp on high boost and 30whp on pump gas with his RLZ head over another pnp head!!! That speaks for itself! Good luck with the build and keep us updated.
Ryan
Ryan
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MooreBoost »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just build the FD.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I say to just save your money, because I would be DAMN happy with that thing.
I say to just save your money, because I would be DAMN happy with that thing.
I would not recomend the aero motive a1000 pump.. it only flowed 3,65liters per minit with 5 bar(~73psi) of fuelpressure on my setup anywhay.. thats what you got when you boostin 30psi of boost. With 4 1600cc injektors thats 1,6*4=6,4 liters per minit @ 100% duty cykel. I´m probobly changeing my Aeromotive out and I´m running 1000cc but my engine will see more than 30 psi of boost so I think the aeromotive pumps flow will decrese dramaticly with higher fuel pressure.. I´m considering 2 walbros anyway.. again.. I tested 2 paralell conected before and those flowed 7,22 liter per minit @ 5 bar fuel pressure.
I would also build some kind of warning system that tells me if one pump fails.
You are also getting closer to what 2,5" charge pipeing and what a stock head can flow. So I would step up to 3 " pipes and bigger valves and som port and polish.
With 1600cc you preferably would need a peak and hold driver that makes the injektors fast enaugh to open that short time to make it idle at stock rpm.
With a build like this I would have chosen a good EMS like autronik sm4 with 1 coil per cylinder. Autronic also have a built in peak and hold driver. with a map sensor bigger than 3 bar 30 psi is not the limmit ether and u can easaly step upp to 800whp and more
I would also build some kind of warning system that tells me if one pump fails.
You are also getting closer to what 2,5" charge pipeing and what a stock head can flow. So I would step up to 3 " pipes and bigger valves and som port and polish.
With 1600cc you preferably would need a peak and hold driver that makes the injektors fast enaugh to open that short time to make it idle at stock rpm.
With a build like this I would have chosen a good EMS like autronik sm4 with 1 coil per cylinder. Autronic also have a built in peak and hold driver. with a map sensor bigger than 3 bar 30 psi is not the limmit ether and u can easaly step upp to 800whp and more
Your proposed setup looks pretty good, but here's a few suggestions:
Pick up an Endyn/Moroso breather kit, you'll definitely need it.
Also, if you're buying a block, why mess around with the LS/VTEC conversion when you can get a B18C block for not much more? Its one less thing to worry about when you're shooting for such a huge power goal (I'm not saying you can't make power on an LS/VTEC or that its not reliable, I'm just saying that in my personal opinion I would keep things as simple as possible).
Definitely look into getting some good headwork done. There are plenty of people on this forum that can help you out with that, its just a matter of personal preference.
Ditch the Edelbrock intake manifold and go with the Full-Race or even try out Endyn's new intake manifold. Both are around the same price and both should yield similar results based upon initial testing and dyno graphs that have been posted. Both performed similarly to the AIR (which is no longer in production) and outperformed the Edelbrock unit across the entire powerband.
Forget the Hondata S200/S300. Call up Tony1 or st00pid, whichever is closer to you in Texas and have them set you up with Neptune. Both of them are great tuners with great reputations who have tuned everything from bolt-on street cars to full-out methanol powered race cars. Actually, I'd contact either of them ahead of time as well and discuss your plans with them, they have tons of experience and can offer many suggestions and point you in the right direction.
By the way, I love your RX7.
Pick up an Endyn/Moroso breather kit, you'll definitely need it.
Also, if you're buying a block, why mess around with the LS/VTEC conversion when you can get a B18C block for not much more? Its one less thing to worry about when you're shooting for such a huge power goal (I'm not saying you can't make power on an LS/VTEC or that its not reliable, I'm just saying that in my personal opinion I would keep things as simple as possible).
Definitely look into getting some good headwork done. There are plenty of people on this forum that can help you out with that, its just a matter of personal preference.
Ditch the Edelbrock intake manifold and go with the Full-Race or even try out Endyn's new intake manifold. Both are around the same price and both should yield similar results based upon initial testing and dyno graphs that have been posted. Both performed similarly to the AIR (which is no longer in production) and outperformed the Edelbrock unit across the entire powerband.
Forget the Hondata S200/S300. Call up Tony1 or st00pid, whichever is closer to you in Texas and have them set you up with Neptune. Both of them are great tuners with great reputations who have tuned everything from bolt-on street cars to full-out methanol powered race cars. Actually, I'd contact either of them ahead of time as well and discuss your plans with them, they have tons of experience and can offer many suggestions and point you in the right direction.
By the way, I love your RX7.
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