so i get to work today and my car is running fine, i noticed a leak in one of my spark plug tubes yesterday right before i went to lunch i took the valve cover off and replaced all the seals and gaskets etc. car fired right up, i even revved it a little bit to make sure everything works. i go to lunch, coming back, im about to turn left to my workplace, and my car dies on me and wont start anymore. it turns like it wants to start but just doesnt fire just keeps turning. i get towed over to my workplace and i call my friend tell him whats up. he says charge your battery and make sure u got fuel then try it. did that still wont start. so i got under the hood and check all my fuel systems first, make sure i got fuel running thru the filter and to the fuel rail, everything is good. so i call my GF's dad who happens to be a honda mechanic. he says take out you spark plug wire, drive a screwdriver into it, hold it near a ground and see if it sparks. i wont spark. so i went and got a brand new distro cap and rotor from the store. i havent put them on yet cus i havent been back to my car since i got picked up. so now im trying to work forward. my car is about 20 miles away from my house and i hate asking for rides lol so i wanna be able to diagnose if it doesnt work instead of get a ride back to my house, post on teh forum, get an answer, and drive back lol. anyways my friend said that if it still wont spark after i put the new rotor and cap on, it might be the ignition coil. so here are my questions, if it IS teh ignition coil, how do i check if it is? (if it still doesnt spark with a new cap and rotor, how do i check the coil?) and the coil is still good, what is my next step from there?

thanks alot
Carlos

PS: my car is a 1993 Del Sol S, D15B7 engine in it

 

you need to space this out, seeing makes people not want to read that **** house of words

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tuck’d98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need to space this out, seeing makes people not want to read that **** house of words</TD></TR></TABLE>
BWAHAHAHAHA!! He's right. Your words resemble a shitty house.

Find someone with the same engine and try their distributor maybe. It would suck to replace all those parts and find out they weren't the problem to begin with. It may be as simple as trying a different set of wires. You mentioned there was oil coming up around the plugs, right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tuck’d98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need to space this out, seeing makes people not want to read that **** house of words</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, now that is just great technical advice, now i see how u got 1800 posts. thanks alot *******

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by transpar_nt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You mentioned there was oil coming up around the plugs, right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, looking at the engine from the front of the car, the all right spark plug tube had oil coming in it, then i replaced the seals and i havent had the chance to check since, had little more important issues at hand lol

 

get dvm and check the resistance of the coil and see if it at the spec.
these 2 wire should be remover before testing.
the blk/yel wire (-) the wht/blu (+).
the primnary should read at 0.6-0.8 ohm
the seondary should read 12.8 -19.2 ohms

 

alright, thanks 2lua. now which whire is the primary and which wire is teh secondary? and what if its not where its supposed to be? is my coil bad and a need a new one? and then what if it IS where its supposed to be? where do i go from there?

 

those 2 location is the primary. (if you look hard it should have plus and minus sign)
the + terminal and the post with a little spring stick out is the secondary.

 

oh ok, so there are 2 terminal sorta thingies on the coil that are the secondary testing place?

 

yeah! you could said that.
remember to remove those wires before testing.
the coild should cost about 70-85 bucks.

 

alright, tahnks man! do i also have to have the primary wires removed when i test the secondary terminals? and then something i forgot to ask, to test the wires, all i have to do is put the tester on it and try starting the car right?

 

no, nooo! you do not start the car to test the coil.....
those 2 wire are the only wires needed to be remove to test for the primary and secondary.
you are testing the coil not the wire remember that.

 

ok, so its gonna have power going to it wether is turn the ignition or not? so i just have to have the key in the on position that the lights in the cluster are on, and not mess with it while im testing it?

 

put the key in your pocket while you testing the coil.
ps.
have you done anything close to this kind of task?
just be careful ok!

 

ok, keys in the pocket will work. and no, i have not done anything close to this kind of task, thats why im so questiony i just started really getting into cars so im learning as i go along but thanks for your help man!

 

if you up for the task then go for it! it's not that hard to do. now do you know how to use the dvm?
glads to help.

 

yeah i know how to use it, and my dad works on printers and he uses it for that all the time so yeah ill know how to do it

 

well go fix your car! gl
while you at it check the resistance on all the plugs wire too. spec. are 25k max.

 

ok little update on what happened. i couldnt pull my rotor off cus i couldnt get to the screw. so i called my good friend tim, who i trust with this stuff, and he said, u need to turn your rotor by cranking the engine. so i said 'ok' cranked it, rotor doesnt turn. so in the end we found out, my timing belt is busted. :-(

called tuffy, they are charging me 500 bux for the repair and a tow over there, so hopefully, if the car gets there on time, it will be fixed today with a brand new belt, waterpump, and seals YAY