I am cross drilling my rotors myself

i would just like to know if any body has done it and if u have any advise for certain patterns or just anything in general

 

Do not cross drill your rotors yourself, they will crack, and you will not gain anything by cross drilling them, trust me.

 

along w/ promoting cracking, you'll reduce performance by reducing the contact area between rotor and pad and reducing the cooling surface available to the rotor. leave it blank.

 

Well thanks guys then i'll probably just buy the front 2 cross drilled rotors

do u sugest any cross drilled rotors ( ie. aem...... )

 

..trust me, just stick w/ solid rotors! Cross drilled rotors are only used in applications where you want to maximize the diameter of the rotor while trying to reduce weight [i.e. on sportbikes], while attempting not to use exotic materials like carbon composities.


[Modified by bb6h22a, 5:05 PM 3/18/2002]

 

make sure u get high performance stainless steel crossdrilled brake lines too, significant changes to pedal travel length and 60-0 ft.

 

I really, really hope your kidding


Dude, DO NOT GET CROSSDRILLED, unless you are just some wanna be porsche rice boy.. BTW any porsche owners who do track events (hardest events on brakes) put solid, nondrilled, unslotted rotors on..

 

look at a cheese grater and then look at crossdriled rotors. Do you really want to put your brake pads through that?

 

Solid!

 

Cross drilling is done to increase cooling of the braking system. Yes, it will wear your pads a little faster...but to compare them to a cheese grater is a little out there. A cheese grater has protruding edges to cut the cheese (no pun intended). Cross drilled rotors have recessed edges so they don't cut the pad. If you need serious repeatable braking and you don't mind blowing through pads because you are seriously braking go for it. I think doing it yourself is a mistake though. If you are doing it for looks go buy some steel wheels and get wheel covers that have the "cross drill look" everyone together now R I C E!!!

 

lol i was kidding hondax381x, cross drilled brake lines, get it?

 

Dude, you really don't know... Actually, because of the less mass of x drilling, the rotors OVERHEAT quicker.. And if you get them that hot, they will just crack between the holes, really, they have NO, repeat, NO positive impact on braking..

 

Dude,
Be sure to paint your calipers too, any old paint will be fine, especially if it is red household paint.
Don;t forget the type R either

 

I am a little suprised to get this response from you 318dx...

Crossdrilling was specificly done to cool the rotors. Take a look at a F1 car...crossdrilled... LeMans...crossdrilled. If you drill your rotor into swiss cheese then yes you will have problems. If you go out and buy engineered crossdrilled rotors, you aren't going to crack them due to high temp. If you are generating that high of temp to crack a rotor then you probably are going to irreprebly warp a solid rotor. That is exactly why I wouldn't ever suggest someone do it themselves. To say "NO, repeat, NO impact" is ludicrus. On a street application yes there isn't the benifit. Specifically for the track, there is a benifit if done properly, and it has been proven at tracks around the world over and over again.

 

F1 cars use SOLID rotos, as do Le Mans Cars! Don't believe me; look below:
LMP 675 car in the pits at Laguna Seca during the ALMS Championship

Audi R8 [same race weekend]:

Peter Cunningham's Realtime NSX:


Also, to set the record straigh F1 cars use solid rotor:


The only "stylish" rotors teams were using were slotted rotors, period! No one was using cross-drilled rotors, anywhere.

Like I said, cross-drilling is used to remove weight from large diamter rotors in applications where unsprung weight and materials cost are factors. Also, cross drilling, if the rotors are CAST w/ the holes, then they will have comprable structural integrity as solid rotors, if they are drilled post manufacture, they will crack. Also, the brakes DO NOT stop the car, the tires do! All the brake system is responsible for is translating one type of energy into another, namely kinetic into thermal energy/heat.

For a elaborate review on braking components and operation, go here:
http://www.grassrootsmotorsports.com/
Look under "Tech Topics" and read the article about Brake Pads.

 

Ok. I will concede that the drivers you are displaying are not using crossdrilled rotors. I do not have time to find pics of those who do. But I did have the time to follow your link. I didn't find much info supporting either opinion but the pad information was quite good. I think that we can all see (and have experienced) that tires are usually the weak point in a braking system. But, in the issue of fade the #1 reason is temp. Agreed? Pads are designed to have maximum coefficient of friction in a specific temp range. I have a link for you to go to...
http://www.se-r.net/car_info/brake_performance.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow external">http://<a href="http://www.se-r.net/...mance.html</a>
Below is an interesting portion of it...

"
Drilled sport rotors
Rotors are drilled because the drilling lets vaporized pad material escape from under the pads, minimizing the hydroplaning effect under hard braking thus giving the pads better grip under these extreme conditions. Drilling also lets water escape in much the same manor in rainy weather. Test done by KVR show that drilled rotors can cool down up to 20 percent quicker than solid rotors.
Drilling also helps deglaze the rotors or keeps them from glazing up due to a cheese grater effect.

I myself think that drilled stock rotors or sport rotors may be somewhat questionable because since small stock brakes are run close to their thermal limit with high performance pads, the drilling can contribute to cracking. If you are buying drilled rotors check to see if the holes have be chamfered. Chamfering helps reduce the likelihood of cracking. Drilled solid rotors like the rear rotors on SE-R’s make a weird whirring noise when the brakes are applied. Some people have said that drilled rotors cause faster pad wear but I myself have not experienced it. Drilled real racing brakes with sufficient thermal capacity are functional and useful. Better than drilling but perhaps lacking some of the racy pizzazz are slotted rotors. Slotting does the same thing as drilling but without the cracking problem. I don’t think slotted rotors cool any faster but they are a lot less likely to crack. If you are running stock sized rotors , I’d go for slotted for this reason.

Overall, I feel that drilled sport rotors are mostly a cosmetic trick and have never tested drilled, slotted and solid back to back. They really look cool though and fall in to the disco/rice boy category as all of my personal cars have them!
"

I noticed that your NSX pic does have slotted rotors. The reason...temp not weight. I agree that weight may be a secondary consideration and if someone is talking about drilling their rotors for weight...I think they are nuts. I personally would not drill my rotors or buy drilled rotors for that matter. Not the point. The reason it is done is primarily for temp...and it works. There is no question that that drilling can cause a higher chance of cracking (yes I was WRONG in my earlier post on cracking). And I think bb6h22a is right that the sportbike guys are doing it to get some weight back. But, they have a little more (% wise) to gain than a 4-wheeler does. If there was NO advantage to crossdrilling, it wouldn't be out there for any application. That is all I am trying to say. Well that and don't do it yourself...

 

..ALL of the ALMS Protoype/GTS/GT teams used solid rotors [carbon composities where available], and slotted when cost considerations were concerned.

 

I agree with this =~)

Lude LC I kinda used to think the same thing, but its ALL MARKETING! Cross drilling wont' do ****, ask in the competition board, or do a search there, on honda's, it won't do anything....

Modern pads do NOT gass like older (80's) pads do, and don't need this release of gas, also, anyone who uses brakes a lot will realize that any water that gets to the rotors (very little) will evaporate within like .1 of a second, my rotors are over 700 degress when I get off the track, way over the 212 degress boiling point.. yes, slotted will cool down faster, but they will also heat up much faster as well...

Also, rear rotors don't do **** on FWD cars, mine only get to about 300 degress, so why change from solid?

 

reasons for x drilling
1. drag racing, where less rotation mass is good
2. less unsprung weight

Yeap, thats about it....

 

Cros drilling your own rotors? Hmmm, make sure that someone calls me to your funeral!!!! " Kids, do not try to cross drill your own rotors at home" I would definetly suggest you to get some after market crossdrilled rotors. There are group buys on them where you can get them cheap.

I just raced for almost a continuous 1600 miles goin to FL and back to MD with speeds ranging between 90 mph and 135 mph . Besides that my 2000 lude ate a total of 2 quarts of 5W synthetic, my stock rotors went totally messed up because of the high heat created by the high speed friction. I think that this drive was a good test for the lude and in some ways I am dissapointed. I am waitin on a pair of front drilled rotors rite now too. Just pls pls don't try to do it yourself......

Peace
Stefan

 

"""""""""""""""make sure u get high performance stainless steel crossdrilled brake lines too, significant changes to pedal travel length and 60-0 ft. """""""""""""""""""""

I just drilled into my friends car's brake lines. it helped him win the race for sure!!! and his parents are invitin you all to his party in order to celebrate the race... PS: Please wear black clothing....

 

[QUOTE]

Also, rear rotors don't do **** on FWD cars, mine only get to about 300 degress, so why change from solid? [/QUOTE

Don't missunderstand...I would not put them on mine. I completly agree on the earlier point that tires are the key. Untill I find the rotor limit on the stoppers I wouldn't change them. And you are absolutly correct about the rears .

If I personally needed to keep brakes cool the first thing I would do is duct them somehow. It would be pretty easy to do and would be highly economical and benificial. I know I learned some things researching this topic...I hope others did as well....