couple of questions about removing b16 tranny will engine is still in
i have a b16 in my rex and need to remove the tranny. i have replace the clutch before but the engine was out when i did it. i know how to take the axels out and all of that stuff its just the process of how to remove the tranny itself.
should i should keep the rear bracket bolted to the mount and just take the two bolts out if the rear bracket that connect to the tranny and then take the passenger mount off and just sort or lower the tranny (while the motor tilts) and then unbolt the tranny from the engine? or how do you do it? i really don't want to take the whole motor out again.
should i should keep the rear bracket bolted to the mount and just take the two bolts out if the rear bracket that connect to the tranny and then take the passenger mount off and just sort or lower the tranny (while the motor tilts) and then unbolt the tranny from the engine? or how do you do it? i really don't want to take the whole motor out again.
Type of engine mounts used would matter was well.
Procedure for the most part
Since you have done it before, will not speak of axles or bolts between block/tranny since you know of them already.....
Remove half shaft and jack shaft
Loosen back bracket from mount on rear xmember.
Remove 2 bolts to tranny, 1 bolt to block.
Most of the time, for extra clearance, you should remove the radius rod (arm between lower suspension and front xmember (1 bolt in front, 2 bolts in rear -in that order is easiest)
Remove bolt to chassis from top tranny mount.
Normally went putting it back in. Have the starter off and that top mount off until you get the tranny up on the motor. Make sure not to smash up any wires as they tend to fall right down in your way (o2 sensor wire is normally the worst)
Procedure for the most part
Since you have done it before, will not speak of axles or bolts between block/tranny since you know of them already.....
Remove half shaft and jack shaft
Loosen back bracket from mount on rear xmember.
Remove 2 bolts to tranny, 1 bolt to block.
Most of the time, for extra clearance, you should remove the radius rod (arm between lower suspension and front xmember (1 bolt in front, 2 bolts in rear -in that order is easiest)
Remove bolt to chassis from top tranny mount.
Normally went putting it back in. Have the starter off and that top mount off until you get the tranny up on the motor. Make sure not to smash up any wires as they tend to fall right down in your way (o2 sensor wire is normally the worst)
hasport mounts
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmcars.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Loosen back bracket from mount on rear xmember.
Remove 2 bolts to tranny, 1 bolt to block.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
so keep the rear bracket bolted to the mount? only loosen it a few turns?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmcars.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Normally went putting it back in. Have the starter off and that top mount off until you get the tranny up on the motor. Make sure not to smash up any wires as they tend to fall right down in your way (o2 sensor wire is normally the worst)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
good tip
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmcars.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Loosen back bracket from mount on rear xmember.
Remove 2 bolts to tranny, 1 bolt to block.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
so keep the rear bracket bolted to the mount? only loosen it a few turns?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmcars.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Normally went putting it back in. Have the starter off and that top mount off until you get the tranny up on the motor. Make sure not to smash up any wires as they tend to fall right down in your way (o2 sensor wire is normally the worst)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
good tip
the way i did it was took the midshaft out, took the two bolts out from the rear mount goin to the tranny and left the bracket and mount on the rail, then i took the whole from support out (2 bolts on each side) wit the radius rods which is again 2 bolts on each side, which gives you a crap load of room to just let the motor sag and it comes right out, good luck gettin it back in make sure ya have a couple buddys that can help ya lift and keep it straight.. oh imo take the starter out from the beginning its only two bolts..
Call me stupid but if you have access to an engine hoist and a good set of tools then id suggest just pulling the motor. I have a gsr in an 89 hatch and I found that I could just pull the whole motor easier and twice as fast. Since the axels have to be taken out and the shift linkage removed then why not.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by puffsef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Call me stupid but if you have access to an engine hoist and a good set of tools then id suggest just pulling the motor. I have a gsr in an 89 hatch and I found that I could just pull the whole motor easier and twice as fast. Since the axels have to be taken out and the shift linkage removed then why not. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree. I find that its faster if you pull the motor and tranny together and split them on the floor. Most of the time it takes longer to to fight the tranny in and out than to just pull them both out.
I agree. I find that its faster if you pull the motor and tranny together and split them on the floor. Most of the time it takes longer to to fight the tranny in and out than to just pull them both out.
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