I have a friend who wants to turbo his car. He has the money and mechanical ability so hes not just daydreaming but we have a lot of research to do first.

Right now his car has a factory supercharged 2.0l 4cy making ~200hp/200tq.

My 1st question is lets say the S/C is boosting 10psi. The supercharger will ideally help the turbo build boost. So once the turbo hit 10psi does the supercharger stop "working" i.e. is it no longer boosting since the air coming in is already at the pressure it is set to make? And therefore does the pressure in the manifold remain ~10psi?

My 2nd question is lets say we set the turbo to exactly the same pressure as the s/c(~10psi), assuming the pressure does stay constant, or close to constant, will the car not throw a check engline light since the manifold pressure is the same? Even though its flowing much more air? Lets say we put big turbo like an sc61 on it. Obviously it will be making much more power and flowing much more air. But the manifold pressure should be the same as stock? Does this depend on what kind of sensor the car has(map vs maf)? Im pretty sure the car has a maf sensor. Is there a common way to get around maf sensors?

Ive turboed a few honda's but every manufacturer is different......i know this is a honda site but a lot of you guys have shops that work on all sorts of imports, and you really know your stuff

 

I think a standalone is the best way to get around a maf sensor?

Im not sure if the car will throw a code or not. Interesting idea....

 

is this an ecotec?

What I would do is replace the supercharger with a NA manifold from a different car(but the same family of engines) that would bolt up. Then run the turbo by itself w/o a supercharger in place. Put the MAF before the turbo so it's only seeing vacuum and run a return hose from the BOV to after the MAF so there are is no lost air thats already been measured. need to know what engine this is to give help on tuning, hope that helps

PS it would be alot cleaner and headache free to run ONLY the turbo and junk the SC. That would be the way to go since this engine is already overbuilt from the factory to deal with boost(no matter how it's made)

 

here's a link to some pretty useful info about dual chargers:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1293497

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by diet rite &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is this an ecotec?

What I would do is replace the supercharger with a NA manifold from a different car(but the same family of engines) that would bolt up. Then run the turbo by itself w/o a supercharger in place. Put the MAF before the turbo so it's only seeing vacuum and run a return hose from the BOV to after the MAF so there are is no lost air thats already been measured. need to know what engine this is to give help on tuning, hope that helps

PS it would be alot cleaner and headache free to run ONLY the turbo and junk the SC. That would be the way to go since this engine is already overbuilt from the factory to deal with boost(no matter how it's made)</TD></TR></TABLE>



I completely agree, ditch the charger and bolt on the turbo if your set on turboing it.

There's going to be no easy way to do this, but I would convert it to a stand alone at the same time, or like diet said, you could put the MAF before the turbo, I'd just feel better if you converted it to a speed density.

Edit : That guys twin charger system just looks like hell in a handbag. I would hate to work on that car. Plus, 130-160 degree intake temps? Holy ****! Mine never get above 110 even on a hot day!

 

edit: that's the post I was talking about haha