1980 Accord Electrical Questions
Hi all - I've a couple questions to throw out to the forum regarding my '80 Accord HB:
1. turn signals sometimes don't flash but do stay 'on.' Already replace relay; no change. Also, the headlights/dashlights hesitate a bit before lighting up once turned on. The delay has gradually lengthened; while they always come on, they come on faster if you hit the high-beam switch.
I think this is just a bad switch - seems to be a combined high-beam, headlight on/off, and turn-signal switch. Could it possibly be anything else?
2. When driving along, heater fan speed and headlight brightness are "normal." When idling, they slow down and dim to an unusual degree. Why? Alternator belt's tight enough...do Honda alternators fail by slow degrees?
3. When slowing to idle, the engine races a few extra seconds before slowing down to about 850- 900 rpm. Just for a bit, it'll remain at driving rpm's, as though the throttle were stuck (doesn't seem to be) or my foot was on the gas (it's not). Is there some sort of electronic controller on this?
Thanks for any thoughts y'all might have. Car's all original, about 75k on it, until last year it belonged to my 83-year-old aunt who bought it new in 1980 and only drove it to symphony practice and church....no, really! Just has a few little odd things to fix and it'll be perfect.
1. turn signals sometimes don't flash but do stay 'on.' Already replace relay; no change. Also, the headlights/dashlights hesitate a bit before lighting up once turned on. The delay has gradually lengthened; while they always come on, they come on faster if you hit the high-beam switch.
I think this is just a bad switch - seems to be a combined high-beam, headlight on/off, and turn-signal switch. Could it possibly be anything else?
2. When driving along, heater fan speed and headlight brightness are "normal." When idling, they slow down and dim to an unusual degree. Why? Alternator belt's tight enough...do Honda alternators fail by slow degrees?
3. When slowing to idle, the engine races a few extra seconds before slowing down to about 850- 900 rpm. Just for a bit, it'll remain at driving rpm's, as though the throttle were stuck (doesn't seem to be) or my foot was on the gas (it's not). Is there some sort of electronic controller on this?
Thanks for any thoughts y'all might have. Car's all original, about 75k on it, until last year it belonged to my 83-year-old aunt who bought it new in 1980 and only drove it to symphony practice and church....no, really! Just has a few little odd things to fix and it'll be perfect.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdaxford »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi all - I've a couple questions to throw out to the forum regarding my '80 Accord HB:
1. turn signals sometimes don't flash but do stay 'on.' Already replace relay; no change.
* You've got a bulb socket in the system (probably corroded) which intermittantly opens the circuit, and acts like a bulb's out (won't flash)
Also, the headlights/dashlights hesitate a bit before lighting up once turned on. The delay has gradually lengthened; while they always come on, they come on faster if you hit the high-beam switch.
* The assembly grease used in the headlamp switch has congealed over time and acts like wax, keeping the contacts from touching until it warms up. Replace the Switch
2. When driving along, heater fan speed and headlight brightness are "normal." When idling, they slow down and dim to an unusual degree. Why? Alternator belt's tight enough...do Honda alternators fail by slow degrees?
* No, but drive belts can slip dispite feeling tight. The voltage regulator may have gone 'lazy", or the Battery charge may be low. Most Honda Alternators hang on so long that they often require having the brushes replaced. It may be worth it to have it checked.
3. When slowing to idle, the engine races a few extra seconds before slowing down to about 850- 900 rpm. Just for a bit, it'll remain at driving rpm's, as though the throttle were stuck (doesn't seem to be) or my foot was on the gas (it's not). Is there some sort of electronic controller on this?
* I'll have to beg off on this one, I assume there's an idle down dashpot in the system, but more than likely you'll have to wait for one of one "More Senior" contributors for this answer, sorry
Thanks for any thoughts y'all might have. Car's all original, about 75k on it, until last year it belonged to my 83-year-old aunt who bought it new in 1980 and only drove it to symphony practice and church....no, really! Just has a few little odd things to fix and it'll be perfect.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hopes this helps
P
1. turn signals sometimes don't flash but do stay 'on.' Already replace relay; no change.
* You've got a bulb socket in the system (probably corroded) which intermittantly opens the circuit, and acts like a bulb's out (won't flash)
Also, the headlights/dashlights hesitate a bit before lighting up once turned on. The delay has gradually lengthened; while they always come on, they come on faster if you hit the high-beam switch.
* The assembly grease used in the headlamp switch has congealed over time and acts like wax, keeping the contacts from touching until it warms up. Replace the Switch
2. When driving along, heater fan speed and headlight brightness are "normal." When idling, they slow down and dim to an unusual degree. Why? Alternator belt's tight enough...do Honda alternators fail by slow degrees?
* No, but drive belts can slip dispite feeling tight. The voltage regulator may have gone 'lazy", or the Battery charge may be low. Most Honda Alternators hang on so long that they often require having the brushes replaced. It may be worth it to have it checked.
3. When slowing to idle, the engine races a few extra seconds before slowing down to about 850- 900 rpm. Just for a bit, it'll remain at driving rpm's, as though the throttle were stuck (doesn't seem to be) or my foot was on the gas (it's not). Is there some sort of electronic controller on this?
* I'll have to beg off on this one, I assume there's an idle down dashpot in the system, but more than likely you'll have to wait for one of one "More Senior" contributors for this answer, sorry
Thanks for any thoughts y'all might have. Car's all original, about 75k on it, until last year it belonged to my 83-year-old aunt who bought it new in 1980 and only drove it to symphony practice and church....no, really! Just has a few little odd things to fix and it'll be perfect.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hopes this helps
P
Sorry, I don't have any suggestions to your car's issues; but I was wondering if you'd mind posting some pictures of your Accord? 76-81 Accords are very rare to find these days, and I've been looking for some pictures (interior and exterior) on the internet for quite some time now. Best of luck in the full restoration of your car!
Greetings -
thanks for the good information. I'll follow up and see if things get better.
Sorry on the pictures - my camera drowned on a river trip. I'll send a few along once I get a camera again. It's silver with a burgundy interior; stripes and rubber trim on body make me think it's an LX. Has the manuals, original receipts, maintenance records, etctera. Inside's very very good, but the outside's rather dinged up - no wrecks, the 25 years of other people's shopping carts and such.
It's interesting repairing wee problems resulting from time rather than use - the idea of assembly lube turning to wax and blocking a connection is a new one on me!
thanks for the good information. I'll follow up and see if things get better.
Sorry on the pictures - my camera drowned on a river trip. I'll send a few along once I get a camera again. It's silver with a burgundy interior; stripes and rubber trim on body make me think it's an LX. Has the manuals, original receipts, maintenance records, etctera. Inside's very very good, but the outside's rather dinged up - no wrecks, the 25 years of other people's shopping carts and such.
It's interesting repairing wee problems resulting from time rather than use - the idea of assembly lube turning to wax and blocking a connection is a new one on me!
Yup, wouldn't have believed it myself if it hadn't happened to me.
My wifes '88 (still have the car) had this happen to the shift quadrant selector switch. This unit has the dubious distinction of not only letting the TCM know what Transmission range has been selected, but it also drives that nifty selector display in the dash cluster. If that was all it did, I could have lived with a little 'screw-up from time to time, but the little ^%&$* also controls the Key release interlock also.
and:: you guessed it, the "P" lamp would not light (b'cuz of no connection) and it would not release the key until it did. Talk about 'upset!'
All because of that Monkey Snot they call assembly lube.
P
So, you like "flippie" headlights, do you???
My wifes '88 (still have the car) had this happen to the shift quadrant selector switch. This unit has the dubious distinction of not only letting the TCM know what Transmission range has been selected, but it also drives that nifty selector display in the dash cluster. If that was all it did, I could have lived with a little 'screw-up from time to time, but the little ^%&$* also controls the Key release interlock also.
and:: you guessed it, the "P" lamp would not light (b'cuz of no connection) and it would not release the key until it did. Talk about 'upset!'
All because of that Monkey Snot they call assembly lube.
P

So, you like "flippie" headlights, do you???
You can remove the steering column shround then the steering wheel and get that "combo"switch off" it can be taken apart couple screws and case 'pops' apart and cleaned to fix those problems; add a little extra tension to the slider contacts by stretching the springs a little bit.
The next thing you might want to check is the connector going to the voltage regulator on the passenger side fender well, clean and tweak the connections a little bit,also clean the neg batt ground at the trans; that electrical system sounds normal though.
And yes there is a throttle plate hold open diaphraem that lets the idle come down slowly, part of the reason is anti back fire, and also intake vacum control.
If you are wanting to keep this car; change out the coolant and T-stat... one time of overheating and it's all overwith.
Wow This has been a great flashback
Feel like I'm 19 again
The next thing you might want to check is the connector going to the voltage regulator on the passenger side fender well, clean and tweak the connections a little bit,also clean the neg batt ground at the trans; that electrical system sounds normal though.
And yes there is a throttle plate hold open diaphraem that lets the idle come down slowly, part of the reason is anti back fire, and also intake vacum control.
If you are wanting to keep this car; change out the coolant and T-stat... one time of overheating and it's all overwith.
Wow This has been a great flashback
Feel like I'm 19 again
See? Ask, and you'll receive. A mass congregating of agreeing suggestions culminating in a successful Honda Repair!!
Ain't Life Grand??
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Ain't Life Grand??
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