Just Cranks and won't start no spark
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quad-Damage »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes i am, my fuel pump is hella loud walbro 255hp and i hear it when i prime the car, i also smell the gas so i know its getting that</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you getting fuel pressure at the rail THOUGH?
Do you have an MSD ignition box on the car too? If so then bypass that then check back. Run the wires from inside the distributor to the Blaster coil now
Are you getting fuel pressure at the rail THOUGH?
Do you have an MSD ignition box on the car too? If so then bypass that then check back. Run the wires from inside the distributor to the Blaster coil now
Pump is one thing, actual injector pulse is another. Sounds like you have injector pulse if you smell fuel. I diagnose you as having wierd misc ignition fuckage.
Disconnect the MSD from the system to test, since coil and ignitor have been replaced. It directly handles ignition signal from ECU --> ignitor --> MSD --> coil, and something along that path is broken. If the MSD unit is bad, feel free to not replace it, they are worthless anyway.
FYI, ECU monitors the dist sensors (primarily TDC to determine base ignition/injector timing event) and outputs IGO signal on the white (or yel/blu wire depending on OBD) to the ignitor. Ignitor fires coil, synthesizes tach output on the blu wire.
It is possible to directly manipulate ignition system by applying power/gnd to the wht or yel/blu ignitor wire. ground tells the ignitor to charge the coil, 12v power to stop charging. Hooking up a switch and cycling power --> ground --> power will cause the coil to fire (if everything is good) but can kill the ignitor.
Disconnect the MSD from the system to test, since coil and ignitor have been replaced. It directly handles ignition signal from ECU --> ignitor --> MSD --> coil, and something along that path is broken. If the MSD unit is bad, feel free to not replace it, they are worthless anyway.
FYI, ECU monitors the dist sensors (primarily TDC to determine base ignition/injector timing event) and outputs IGO signal on the white (or yel/blu wire depending on OBD) to the ignitor. Ignitor fires coil, synthesizes tach output on the blu wire.
It is possible to directly manipulate ignition system by applying power/gnd to the wht or yel/blu ignitor wire. ground tells the ignitor to charge the coil, 12v power to stop charging. Hooking up a switch and cycling power --> ground --> power will cause the coil to fire (if everything is good) but can kill the ignitor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostfed.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are you getting fuel pressure at the rail THOUGH?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hrm, good Q.
Are you getting fuel pressure at the rail THOUGH?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hrm, good Q.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pump is one thing, actual injector pulse is another. Sounds like you have injector pulse if you smell fuel. I diagnose you as having wierd misc ignition fuckage.
Disconnect the MSD from the system to test, since coil and ignitor have been replaced. It directly handles ignition signal from ECU --> ignitor --> MSD --> coil, and something along that path is broken. If the MSD unit is bad, feel free to not replace it, they are worthless anyway.
FYI, ECU monitors the dist sensors (primarily TDC to determine base ignition/injector timing event) and outputs IGO signal on the white (or yel/blu wire depending on OBD) to the ignitor. Ignitor fires coil, synthesizes tach output on the blu wire.
It is possible to directly manipulate ignition system by applying power/gnd to the wht or yel/blu ignitor wire. ground tells the ignitor to charge the coil, 12v power to stop charging. Hooking up a switch and cycling power --> ground --> power will cause the coil to fire (if everything is good) but can kill the ignitor.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha you and I are on the same page here. Read my thread that I edited WHILE you were postin this also J
Disconnect the MSD from the system to test, since coil and ignitor have been replaced. It directly handles ignition signal from ECU --> ignitor --> MSD --> coil, and something along that path is broken. If the MSD unit is bad, feel free to not replace it, they are worthless anyway.
FYI, ECU monitors the dist sensors (primarily TDC to determine base ignition/injector timing event) and outputs IGO signal on the white (or yel/blu wire depending on OBD) to the ignitor. Ignitor fires coil, synthesizes tach output on the blu wire.
It is possible to directly manipulate ignition system by applying power/gnd to the wht or yel/blu ignitor wire. ground tells the ignitor to charge the coil, 12v power to stop charging. Hooking up a switch and cycling power --> ground --> power will cause the coil to fire (if everything is good) but can kill the ignitor.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha you and I are on the same page here. Read my thread that I edited WHILE you were postin this also J
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nos51 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did your ecu get wet? can you see any corrosion?</TD></TR></TABLE>
my ecu is dry as a bone, it' a p28 with a crome base map that runs great, when it starts
and i just opened my fuel rail a bit, it was leaking fuel, so i know im getting fuel.
think my SCI unit could be bad, it'ss mounted inside my heater core to keep it hidden and dry, i kinda want to run the MSD it was working flawlessly before, for like 4 months
my ecu is dry as a bone, it' a p28 with a crome base map that runs great, when it starts
and i just opened my fuel rail a bit, it was leaking fuel, so i know im getting fuel.
think my SCI unit could be bad, it'ss mounted inside my heater core to keep it hidden and dry, i kinda want to run the MSD it was working flawlessly before, for like 4 months
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quad-Damage »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
think my SCI unit could be bad, it's mounted inside my heater core to keep it hidden and dry</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bypass it and check back, read mine and JDavis' posts, that is what we are inclined to think right now
think my SCI unit could be bad, it's mounted inside my heater core to keep it hidden and dry</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bypass it and check back, read mine and JDavis' posts, that is what we are inclined to think right now
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quad-Damage »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will do, **** me off, im set to dyno at 17 psi tommarow as well, and my car won't start 
ill update, becuase i need to get this running today</TD></TR></TABLE>
Easiest way to do it SINCE I have done it several times is cut the red and white wires going into the Dizzy put Quick Connects on them and then cut the black and orange coming off the coil now and do the same, Red to orange Positives together and Black and White negatives together, keep in mind this is from teh Distributor to coil not the box to box wires DOH
And don't worry about dynoing at 17psi, I know Tony1 has had lots of probs with MSD ignitions and he has disconnected them and had no misfires issues on pretty high horsepower set ups
Modified by Boostfed.com at 4:12 PM 1/1/2006

ill update, becuase i need to get this running today</TD></TR></TABLE>
Easiest way to do it SINCE I have done it several times is cut the red and white wires going into the Dizzy put Quick Connects on them and then cut the black and orange coming off the coil now and do the same, Red to orange Positives together and Black and White negatives together, keep in mind this is from teh Distributor to coil not the box to box wires DOH
And don't worry about dynoing at 17psi, I know Tony1 has had lots of probs with MSD ignitions and he has disconnected them and had no misfires issues on pretty high horsepower set ups
Modified by Boostfed.com at 4:12 PM 1/1/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quad-Damage »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">going outside to do that now thanks man this won't blow up my ingitor like the one guy said tho right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No you can run a Blaster SS coil with your car without an MSD or other ignition box
MSD Instructions BTW:
http://www.msdignition.com/pdf...1.pdf
Also somewhere in troubleshooting I THINK they explain how to bypass the ignition box also
No you can run a Blaster SS coil with your car without an MSD or other ignition box
MSD Instructions BTW:
http://www.msdignition.com/pdf...1.pdf
Also somewhere in troubleshooting I THINK they explain how to bypass the ignition box also
pull the wire off the coil have someone crank see if their is any spark at all coming off that wire if their isnt you need a crank sensor the crank sensor cuts off sprk completly and wont allow the car to run
we did that
i have no spark from my plugs and no spark for the coil
"
pull the wire off the coil have someone crank see if their is any spark at all coming off that wire if their isnt you need a crank sensor the crank sensor cuts off sprk completly and wont allow the car to run "
i have no spark from my plugs and no spark for the coil
"
pull the wire off the coil have someone crank see if their is any spark at all coming off that wire if their isnt you need a crank sensor the crank sensor cuts off sprk completly and wont allow the car to run "
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostfed.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Easiest way to do it SINCE I have done it several times is cut the red and white wires going into the Dizzy put Quick Connects on them and then cut the black and orange coming off the coil now and do the same, Red to orange Positives together and Black and White negatives together, keep in mind this is from teh Distributor to coil not the box to box wires DOH
Modified by Boostfed.com at 4:12 PM 1/1/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
did this and same thing
Modified by Boostfed.com at 4:12 PM 1/1/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
did this and same thing
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quad-Damage »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
did this and same thing</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe you have a bad ignitor then
How did you have teh MSD hooked up? This happened to me once I bypassed the MSD and all and still same thing, what it ended up being is the Black/Yellow wire on teh harness was tapped into for the MSD and it came disconnected. Make sure to check all yoru connections for the MSD and IF possible change out your Ignitor. Good luck
did this and same thing</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe you have a bad ignitor then
How did you have teh MSD hooked up? This happened to me once I bypassed the MSD and all and still same thing, what it ended up being is the Black/Yellow wire on teh harness was tapped into for the MSD and it came disconnected. Make sure to check all yoru connections for the MSD and IF possible change out your Ignitor. Good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quad-Damage »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"
pull the wire off the coil have someone crank see if their is any spark at all coming off that wire if their isnt you need a crank sensor the crank sensor cuts off sprk completly and wont allow the car to run "</TD></TR></TABLE>
Huh?
Crank sensor means expletive all when it comes to making the car idle. You, bottom line, need TDC sensor and nothing else to sit there and chug in limp mode.
pull the wire off the coil have someone crank see if their is any spark at all coming off that wire if their isnt you need a crank sensor the crank sensor cuts off sprk completly and wont allow the car to run "</TD></TR></TABLE>
Huh?
Crank sensor means expletive all when it comes to making the car idle. You, bottom line, need TDC sensor and nothing else to sit there and chug in limp mode.


