Here is the steps:

1. Start the engine.
2. Start to move the car till 1/4 water temp.
3. After 20m, stop at exit. (the idle very rough, nearly engine off)
4. Normal drive for a while. ( no problem at all, whatever at traffic )
5. Switch on the Air-cond. (the idle very rough again)
6. Switch off the Air-cond. ( no problem at all )

Don't know how to solve the problem. Anyone can help me?

 

Have you added any modifications or is it stock?

 

I think he recently added the Ultra MDI 9680 ignition, maybe it's not installed properly?

You should probably look at this thread, I believe Ben Leung explains the correct way to hook it up:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=872449

 

I installed it correctly. I think that is not related to MDI. Should be any senor or any stuff got problem? Anyone can help??

That's the pics i intalled the MDI.

 

ELD-Electrical Load detector. Had the same problem before in a friends car.

 

what is ELD-Electrical load detector and where is the location?

Thanks a lot!!

 

Does it have an aftermarket pulley?

 

I don't have aftermarket pully.

 

whats wrong with stock ignition? i make twice hp than you do and on stock ign.
you could raise the idle by playing w/ throttle flat screw, the one facing towards passenger side.. but sounds pretty normal to me.. how low does the idle drop? could be worn spark plugs, overall timing, don't know if your car has fuel evap system, but that could cause rough idle at times. and.. by covering valve cover breather w/ filter you're going to block ventilation at some point, it will get soaked with oil and cause more problems.

 

when's your last time u changed fule filter?

 

could be the fuel filter

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Edward &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think that is not related to MDI.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why are you so sure? Have you gone back to the stock ignition to see if the problem is gone... then you'll know if it is the MDI.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and.. by covering valve cover breather w/ filter you're going to block ventilation at some point, it will get soaked with oil and cause more problems.</TD></TR></TABLE> This definitely needs to be checked.

 

I would try and put it back to stock and check if the problem still consist.

 

100% sure not fuel filter problem. I just changed today and tested it. Still got the problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CW-ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> This definitely needs to be checked.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bull *****!

There are plenty of forced induction cars running around with a filter on the breather. All-be-it, there is a proper way to hoop up a kick *** EVAP system and the filter is not the way to do it, but I've never seen any problems.

If the engine is force fed then it will more than likely fill with oil faster than an N/A car.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by r573 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would try and put it back to stock and check if the problem still consist.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Also keep in mind that people are making 500+whp on the stock ITR ignition system.

 

I went back to stock ignition system. Still got the idle problem. I think it should be the electrical problem. Don't know which electrical parts got problem.

Anyone have suggestions?

 

Check your alternator, It could be the regulator.... or the brush on the alternator not touching correctly.... check your output at idle..... or some ground is loose....

 

Where is " Electrical Load Detector" ? Any pics?

 

i had a similar problem not too long ago, pulled out a recently installed ignition upgrade but to no avail, the problem went on for months,trips to the rollers, compression test(they blew my distributor) had my alternator taken out & checked,changed plugs & leads,tried my mates ecu when i checked the cel i got single long flash, anyway to make a long story boring it turned out a band expander had come out of the back of the jap radio fitted to my car & was sitting in the back of the ashtray
found the problem by accident, good luck with it mate, think arsenal may be on to something with his ELD advice

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KISS ME LUCKY CHARMS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
good luck with it mate, think arsenal may be on to something with his ELD advice </TD></TR></TABLE>
Its quite a common problem.

I would check with a manual or @ the dealership, ask the parts or service people, they should be able to help you if you don't get it answered on here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Edward &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where is " Electrical Load Detector" ? Any pics? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I do not have any pictures but it is located on the bottom side of your under hood fuse box. You will have to remove the fuse box to gain access. Best I can recall Acura/Honda only sells the ELD with a complete fuse box. They do not sell it separate. I would suggest sourcing it from a salvage yard...

Here is the best pic i can come up with.. it is on bottom of main fuse box #9 in pic not under ABS fuse box...

 

If your ELD is bad, your gonna have to change out the main fuse box... its located in the main fuse box and its and integral part of that fuse box..... I don't think it's your Electric load detector man cause you will be getting a code of P1297 or P1298..

 

I don't have any cpu light flash. Anyone have suggestions?

 

Is there a CEL on? and did you check your alternator? it could be going bad.......