WEll my car just rolled over 125k and the breaks and rotors are goin out..... i was wondering if i its really nessary for me to upgrade my breaks... i dont have alot of money to spend....i was wondering what if i got the brembo sloted oem style roters with some green stuff break pads... willl that help me out any or will be like stock... does any body know where can i get the big break kit for a reasonable price???

 

you'll be surprise how many guys at scca running stock caliper and stock diameter rotor.

first thing first.

1)check the booster, panel height, cable, all brake line, abs motor for leaks or malfunction.

2)upgrade the rotor with Brembo blanks, they are lighter than oem and proven to work

3)upgrade the pad, i LOVE my axxis/pbd ultimate, they are just as quite as oem(they are kelvar +ceramic), very grippy and very high fade resistance.
you can get all four around the corner for 90 bucks.
some of my buddies had great experinece with hawks and ebc as well.

4)flush and bleed the entire system with dot4 syn. brake fluid.
valvoline synpower, ate superblue or motul 600 are great choice.

 

Without going into the twenty minute type-o-rama I'm known for, I'll just make this point:
Go-Fast is great, lots of fun, and you can often get your Ya-ya's off (apologies to Julian Anderson) driving aggressively.
But along with the Go-Fast, must be balanced the Stop-Fast; 'cuz if you don't, your career as a Road Rocket will be very brief.

Slotted Brembo rotors, premium ceramic or carbon kevlar brake pads and stainless steel brake hoses are the way I've gone, and I don't need the Big Brake route (Thank You)

P


Modified by P_Adams at 12:16 PM 12/15/2005

 

I know not too many poeple use them but when I redid my brake on my Accord I used Brembo blanks and carbon-metallic pads (lifetime warranty from AutoZone) at all four corners. I also drained, refilled and bleed the brake system with Valvoline SynPower DOT4 fluid.

That combination worked great for me. I never did any autox or anything with them though so I don't know how it would hold up under those conditions. But they never missed a beat on the street. They were quite, pads didn't chew up the rotor, solid feel, low dusting, never faded and great stopping. Like I said though, it was never tracked. And with the lifetime warranty on the pads, I only had to buy rotors from that point on.

So I would have to say, decide what your plans are for the car and what your going to be doing. Any autox? Just daily driving?

Also, in your sig you have listed a 94 Accord LX. If your looking to increase your braking performance, maybe you should look into a rear brake conversion to discs? You'll see a nice improvement from just doing that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Group A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wut options are out there for caliper upgrades? is there any OE calipers we can use off other honda/acura cars?</TD></TR></TABLE>

5th gen AV6, 5th gen wagon or Legend dual piston calipers.

Search and you'll find many threads relating to those.

Also check this out for some more info on rotor-over-hub conversion and brake upgrades. It has a list of rotors, calipers and caliper brackets as well as whats needed for the rotor-over-hub conversion.

 

Thats what i usually do, if im going to replace somthing, i get the better stuff

my car recently hit 150,000, and i did a brake up grade, I got brembo Drilled rotors, ceramic pads, and new brake lines

 

hopefully after christmas i get that ooh please santa clause.....I didnt know brembo made drilled roters i always thought that where just slotted. because on the tv show horse power they said that brembo never drilles their rotters from the factory that its all aftermarket... so idddno but i would like the the drilled and sloted

 

And drilled Brembo's do crack, so start saving now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Group A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OE replacement comes in either drilled or slotted only, not both</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you sure? Not saying your wrong just wondering because from everything I've heard and read, Brembo doesn't drill their OE rotors either. The quality of the drilled holes in the rotor deppends on the quality of the shop doing it and thats why people experience different results with Brembo drilled rotors. Not sure if they slot their OE rotors or not. If you have a site or something showing otherwise please let me know, I wouldn't want to misinform anyone.

 

Brembo does offer a cross-drilled version of their OEM sized rotors (refer "Tire Rack") but oddly won't warranty them.
Says something about their faith in cross drilled.

In fact, since the advent of semi metallic and ceramic pads; gassing from the pads at high heat applications isn't much of a consideration anymore.
Although not as much of a "Ooooo" factor, slotted rotors work as advertised.
I've had a set on my '97 SE for over two(2) years without problems.

P

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P_Adams &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brembo does offer a cross-drilled version of their OEM sized rotors (refer "Tire Rack") but oddly won't warranty them.
Says something about their faith in cross drilled..</TD></TR></TABLE>

hm... ok. I didn't know that. Thanks for the info.

Personally though, I'll just stick with Brembo blanks.

 

Slotted and drilled rotors are not better than blanks unless cast that way. When cast that way they round off the fine edges of the slots and holes so it does not shve off pad material causing metallic buildup in those areas in turn making the effort useless.


As far as upgrades I would replace the stock parts, maybe move up in pads and replace your brake lines. 9 times out of 10 brake uneasiness is caused by air/water in the lines caused by old lines and old fluid. Believe it or nto brake fluid actually will collect water over time, thinning it out and lowering it boiling point. This is especially true for high temp fluid used in racing applications.

As far as the caliper goes, we use a single caliper on our race car and it works fine. That is not to say I would not mind a dual piston setup, but it is not a neccesity for our RACE CAR right now. So I can safely say that you will not need an upgrade in that area.

My suggestion in a wrap. Get new rotors, go Brembo blank. With your pads look into what the local auto parts guy has and get a sufficent stock replacement. Check over your brake lines looking for cracking, small leaks, especially around fittings, and general wear. Replace these with stainless steel if you want an upgrade or just put rubber lines on because they will last you another 100,000 miles fine. Also, and most important, check your brake fluid. Is it dirty? Is it thined out? Does it have small bubbles in it? Even if it does nto and has never been changed in the time you have had the car go ahead and change it. Keeping fluid fresh can mean teh extended life of your cars whole braking system.

Going aftermarket for all these things is fine as well, just more exspensive. You also need to remember for all that exspense you will get better braking of which you will use only 5%. Doesn't sound very econmical.

 

Let me tell of my experiences and what I did to correct (upgrade) my '97 SE Coupe.
Because of my Job, I spent an inordinate amount of time driving west of Hartford Ct, primarily along Rt 44. As you approach Avon Ct., you have to traverse a section of 44 called Avon Mountain and it requires hanging on your brakes for at least 3/4 of a mile when heading west. I suffered such terrible brake fade problems from OEM semi-metallic pads that I effectively lost 1/2 of my braking power by the time I reached to bottom.
Fortunately, it was close to that time that the front brakes required servicing I started ordering the pieces I needed (after much Internet searching. I settled on:
1) Brembo Slotted / Cadmium plated Front Brake Rotors
2) Porterfield Carbon Kevlar Brake Pads PN# AP 465 R4-s
3) Earl's Hyper-firm brake lines TasPro PN# 570260

My brake pedal effort has been halved, it no longer fades and expect the front brakes to lock up (and have your seat belt on) if you decide to hit them hard.

P