i did a search didn't find to much...i wanted to know if any one has done anything else besides the nsx, willwood, ...ect?

who like what, what works....

 

What exactly about your current brakes are you not satisfied with?

 

KVR Python 4-pot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What exactly about your current brakes are you not satisfied with?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, that. The stock ITR braking system is pretty durn good as is. A set of good pads and high temp fluid should cover almost all possible bases. Unless you need showkaa bling

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unless you need showkaa bling </TD></TR></TABLE>

Or better modulation and heat dispersal.

 

Well, thinking of how NECESSARY it is...for a street car for example, you SHOULDN'T need more than pads and fluid. If you're overheating that, I'd say you're pushing the car pretty goddamn hard, and consequently being hugely unsafe. The modulation thing, eh...could go either way. I've been in big-brake cars that have really crappy modulation feel, and my stock R with stainless-braided lines always felt pretty good, as does my hatch with the same setup. Not too hard, not too soft, nice and predictable, linear pedal movement for desired braking force.

 

With the addition of lines, fluid, and appropriate pads, the stock ITR system becomes very predictable, and modulation is as close to linear as you can get. If you dissable ABS, threshold braking becomes almost natural.

The only problem I've had with the OEM caliper/rotor setup is the uneven pad wear, which a two piston or four-pot caliper can fix. There are plenty of pads that support heat ranges greater than what 99% of us can inflict on these cars, but having the added heat capacity of a larger rotor would be beneficial.

I guess the point is you most likely do not NEED to upgrade the braking system, but there are benefits to larger rotors and calipers that warrant the option to install them. The only question is, what is the cost of these benefits? NSX setup is the only reasonable setup in terms of cost vs performance. If the TL/RL/DC5R Brembo setup becomes something a DIY'er can do, then that would be ideal as well.

My $.02

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only question is, what is the cost of these benefits? </TD></TR></TABLE>

See, that's how I look at it. You have to go through a good number of pads to reach an equivalent value for one of these aftermarket "big brake" setups.

 

i was thinking about ss lines, slotted roters and pads....
i just wanted to kow if anyone when much more than that?
just checking the water..

 

No need for the slotted rotors IMO. FWIW on my race caR I have the Cobalt Spec VR's, Goodyear SS lines and ATE super blue fluid. If your over doing that.....

 

Typrice, you need to tell us what you'll be doing with the car. If it's just being used on the street, that's perfectly fine. The brake pad applications differ for street and track use though. For example, the Spec VRs Dave listed aren't great on the street, while they are phenomenal on track. For a street pad, the GT-Sport would work much better, since it doesn't require the same warming up the VR does.

Other than that, I agree with Dave, slotted rotors are a waste of money. Get new Brembo blanks, or if they're cheaper, the generic blanks offered at Autozone or whatever.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mythias &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Or better modulation and heat dispersal. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you're on that search for the apocryphal hard brake pedal on a track car, you might as well hang it up right now. Spoon four pots, Willwoods and everything else start out feeling better, but you're going to end up with the same squishiness you've always had.

I've oversimplified that too much. Hope I don't get bashed and I hope you know what I mean.

Getting a firm brake pedal on a track car is just too difficult. It's not just the calipers you have to look at. You also have to look at the amount of boost, the master cylinder, the brake pads and the kind of fluid and how it's bled.

You can have the best brake bleed in the world and still have a squishy squishy pedal on the track in consequence of all these factors adding together. Your car's still going to haul itself down from 140 a lot better and a lot faster than cars costing quite a bit more.

Now, the heat dissipation issue is what will probably finally get this driver a big brake kit on the ITR. There's only so much you can do if you want to keep buying cheap Autozone and Advance Auto rotors for the front. You either need to resign yourself to frequent replacements (2x-3x/year) on a track car or just go to bigger rotors and a big brake kit.

There's only so much that can be done about heat dissipation with the OEM sized rotors, and that's fine...but sooner or later you're going to crack one all the way through on the track or on the ride home from the track, and this is very annoying.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you're on that search for the apocryphal hard brake pedal on a track car, you might as well hang it up right now. Spoon four pots, Willwoods and everything else start out feeling better, but you're going to end up with the same squishiness you've always had.

I've oversimplified that too much. Hope I don't get bashed and I hope you know what I mean.

Getting a firm brake pedal on a track car is just too difficult. It's not just the calipers you have to look at. You also have to look at the amount of boost, the master cylinder, the brake pads and the kind of fluid and how it's bled.

You can have the best brake bleed in the world and still have a squishy squishy pedal on the track in consequence of all these factors adding together. Your car's still going to haul itself down from 140 a lot better and a lot faster than cars costing quite a bit more.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I can attest to all of this, you're spot on. The combination of the Whole system contributes to the pedal feel and of course performance. But there are other cars out there with firmer pedal feel, the Bavarian offerings come to mind immediately.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now, the heat dissipation issue is what will probably finally get this driver a big brake kit on the ITR. There's only so much you can do if you want to keep buying cheap Autozone and Advance Auto rotors for the front. You either need to resign yourself to frequent replacements (2x-3x/year) on a track car or just go to bigger rotors and a big brake kit.

There's only so much that can be done about heat dissipation with the OEM sized rotors, and that's fine...but sooner or later you're going to crack one all the way through on the track or on the ride home from the track, and this is very annoying. </TD></TR></TABLE>

But I'd much rather spend $25. on a rotor and 20 minutes between sessions to swap it out than uber $$thousands$$. At least 3 out of 5 of us in groups always bring spare rotors, pads, fluid etc. So finding the OEM spec spare at the track is much more common than any more exotic setup.

Calipers for feel and modulation are one thing. We haven't mentioned actual air flow and ducting. Something that helps quite a bit and can be done cheaply Before resorting to a Big Brake Bill.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypRice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was thinking about ss lines, slotted roters and pads....
i just wanted to kow if anyone when much more than that?
just checking the water..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well the temperature and depth of the water totally depend on your goals and intended purpose. SS lines will provide better pedal "feel" as per modulation, NOT a firmer pedal and you should look at coated ones a la Stoptech and or get used to swapping out lines every year to few years or so otherwise. Slotted rotors are a waste for DD and will shorten your pads life. More aggressive pads are a nice upgrade when you actually have a need to use them but they tend to dust and squeal and depending on how aggressive and the brand and type of pad, may have a different operating temperature zone and may not heat up properly for cold stopping and can be harsh on rotor. Sure people have done more than that but it's not neccessary for 99% of us and money that could be better spent elsewhere.