89 to 92 mm crank (Offset grinding)
Ok I have searched and keep coming up with nothing. Except for h22/h23 things. Can anyone lead me to old posts or any info. I was wondering if anyone does it? I have a crank grinding machine where I work and I just wanted some feedback from some one who has tried it.
what do you want to know. if its about offset grinding then your journal you start with should be bigger than the one you want to acheive. if not then there is some weld that is needed. that is just a bit of the jist of it. but alot more involved.
ive done an offset grind ls crank to a 92 mm.....
you shrink the rod journal down to a d15 sized rod end....and move it out 3mm
i highly recommend nitriding and using a crank that is great condition to start with...
the crank broke on me cuz i used a bunk *** crank to start with but that was my fault...
when inspected the other bearings and mains they were perfect
i have a rod and piston combo spec'd out if you want....
it maintains an ls r/s and and a stock sized rod pin
you shrink the rod journal down to a d15 sized rod end....and move it out 3mm
i highly recommend nitriding and using a crank that is great condition to start with...
the crank broke on me cuz i used a bunk *** crank to start with but that was my fault...
when inspected the other bearings and mains they were perfect
i have a rod and piston combo spec'd out if you want....
it maintains an ls r/s and and a stock sized rod pin
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SUPER(HYPHY)NATURAL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive done an offset grind ls crank to a 92 mm.....
you shrink the rod journal down to a d15 sized rod end....and move it out 3mm
i highly recommend nitriding and using a crank that is great condition to start with...
the crank broke on me cuz i used a bunk *** crank to start with but that was my fault...
when inspected the other bearings and mains they were perfect
i have a rod and piston combo spec'd out if you want....
it maintains an ls r/s and and a stock sized rod pin</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes please post all the info you have got on doing it... So your crank broke? I have a couple good LS cranks! I was hoping someone whould have info on it. Did you have your crank Nitraded? I don't even know anyone that does it anymore.... Doo you have someone who did it for you? Can you let me see all the info/pics you have?
Thanks!
you shrink the rod journal down to a d15 sized rod end....and move it out 3mm
i highly recommend nitriding and using a crank that is great condition to start with...
the crank broke on me cuz i used a bunk *** crank to start with but that was my fault...
when inspected the other bearings and mains they were perfect
i have a rod and piston combo spec'd out if you want....
it maintains an ls r/s and and a stock sized rod pin</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes please post all the info you have got on doing it... So your crank broke? I have a couple good LS cranks! I was hoping someone whould have info on it. Did you have your crank Nitraded? I don't even know anyone that does it anymore.... Doo you have someone who did it for you? Can you let me see all the info/pics you have?
Thanks!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SUPER(HYPHY)NATURAL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive done an offset grind ls crank to a 92 mm.....
you shrink the rod journal down to a d15 sized rod end....and move it out 3mm
i highly recommend nitriding and using a crank that is great condition to start with...
the crank broke on me cuz i used a bunk *** crank to start with but that was my fault...
when inspected the other bearings and mains they were perfect
i have a rod and piston combo spec'd out if you want....
it maintains an ls r/s and and a stock sized rod pin</TD></TR></TABLE>
I can vouch for his rod setup, I saw it in person when I was working out in Cali..
you shrink the rod journal down to a d15 sized rod end....and move it out 3mm
i highly recommend nitriding and using a crank that is great condition to start with...
the crank broke on me cuz i used a bunk *** crank to start with but that was my fault...
when inspected the other bearings and mains they were perfect
i have a rod and piston combo spec'd out if you want....
it maintains an ls r/s and and a stock sized rod pin</TD></TR></TABLE>
I can vouch for his rod setup, I saw it in person when I was working out in Cali..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5thgenallmotor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes please post all the info you have got on doing it... So your crank broke? I have a couple good LS cranks! I was hoping someone whould have info on it. Did you have your crank Nitraded? I don't even know anyone that does it anymore.... Doo you have someone who did it for you? Can you let me see all the info/pics you have?
Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>
i bought the crank second hand off of someone who started the project and never finished it . unfortunately the crank was damaged from spun bearings but i thot it would be okay since the damage was grinded away. it was not nitrided,
offset grinding and nitriding cost about 500 bucks
*the crank broke but when i inspected all the other bearings,they were perfect*
*with nitriding i am sure that the motor would have still been running strong*
it lasted 7k miles and lots of dyno time and plenty of 11 second runs in my streetcar
i had pauter make the rods and i bought a piston off the shelf from endyn.... let me find the spec sheets or ill call pauter for the rod specs....
unfortunately i dont have pictures of the rods and pistons outside the block but let me see what i can find
Modified by Supernatural at 11:02 PM 12/10/2005
Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>i bought the crank second hand off of someone who started the project and never finished it . unfortunately the crank was damaged from spun bearings but i thot it would be okay since the damage was grinded away. it was not nitrided,
offset grinding and nitriding cost about 500 bucks
*the crank broke but when i inspected all the other bearings,they were perfect*
*with nitriding i am sure that the motor would have still been running strong*
it lasted 7k miles and lots of dyno time and plenty of 11 second runs in my streetcar
i had pauter make the rods and i bought a piston off the shelf from endyn.... let me find the spec sheets or ill call pauter for the rod specs....
unfortunately i dont have pictures of the rods and pistons outside the block but let me see what i can find
Modified by Supernatural at 11:02 PM 12/10/2005

if your interesting, i can get u the parts have it reproduced and with a good head and the right part you can make over 250 easily
but not as good as tbone becuase he did it with 5mm of stroke less than that
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I work at a machine shop and we have a crank grinder so thats not the problem. I don't know of anyone locally who does Nitrading anymore...
If you could get the specs on the rods that would be great! How much did those rods cost you to have made?
Was your motor sleeved or a stock bore? You have any pics of the broken crank? How much power did it make?(Setup) If this works well, I have a few LS cranks and maybe I will try a couple... Who knows...
If you could get the specs on the rods that would be great! How much did those rods cost you to have made?
Was your motor sleeved or a stock bore? You have any pics of the broken crank? How much power did it make?(Setup) If this works well, I have a few LS cranks and maybe I will try a couple... Who knows...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5thgenallmotor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I work at a machine shop and we have a crank grinder so thats not the problem. I don't know of anyone locally who does Nitrading anymore...
If you could get the specs on the rods that would be great! How much did those rods cost you to have made?
Was your motor sleeved or a stock bore? You have any pics of the broken crank? How much power did it make?(Setup) If this works well, I have a few LS cranks and maybe I will try a couple... Who knows...</TD></TR></TABLE>
i made 240-245 , 85x92 (not so good head and no hondata)
ive got to call pauter this week
the rods were 700 bucks pistons were 550 (for sale if u want and cheap...pm me)
the crank had a crack at the oil hole
If you could get the specs on the rods that would be great! How much did those rods cost you to have made?
Was your motor sleeved or a stock bore? You have any pics of the broken crank? How much power did it make?(Setup) If this works well, I have a few LS cranks and maybe I will try a couple... Who knows...</TD></TR></TABLE>
i made 240-245 , 85x92 (not so good head and no hondata)
ive got to call pauter this week
the rods were 700 bucks pistons were 550 (for sale if u want and cheap...pm me)
the crank had a crack at the oil hole
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Supernatural »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i made 240-245 , 85x92 (not so good head and no hondata)
ive got to call pauter this week
the rods were 700 bucks pistons were 550 (for sale if u want and cheap...pm me)
the crank had a crack at the oil hole</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dam those are pretty good numbers... I dont have a block currently that can go to 85mm.
If you could get me the specs on the rods that would be great. I might think about buying the rods except it is a bad time of the year. Did the crank actually break or did you catch it before it did?
i made 240-245 , 85x92 (not so good head and no hondata)
ive got to call pauter this week
the rods were 700 bucks pistons were 550 (for sale if u want and cheap...pm me)
the crank had a crack at the oil hole</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dam those are pretty good numbers... I dont have a block currently that can go to 85mm.
If you could get me the specs on the rods that would be great. I might think about buying the rods except it is a bad time of the year. Did the crank actually break or did you catch it before it did?
im waiting on pauter to send me the fax becuase i lost the spec sheet that i keep for myself
it just had a small crack on the journal by the oil hole....i found it after an inspection before a race
the motor was still running and oil pressure was ok(ok meaning the stock oil pressure light wasnt on) ...the bearing was just begining to spin
it just had a small crack on the journal by the oil hole....i found it after an inspection before a race
the motor was still running and oil pressure was ok(ok meaning the stock oil pressure light wasnt on) ...the bearing was just begining to spin
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pondus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But why not just use a new Crower 92mm crank? They are not that expensive, I got mine for $700.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed, but then you can say you did it your self. In fact the shop I work at has a 92mm crower crank with crower billet rods that I could buy for a small fee. But I am a broke fool!
Agreed, but then you can say you did it your self. In fact the shop I work at has a 92mm crower crank with crower billet rods that I could buy for a small fee. But I am a broke fool!
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