Keep B18C5 or sell it for a B20vtec?
hi guys,
I've bought a DC2 ITR which comes with the B18C5 engine. My plan was to sleeve the block, run 86 x 87.2 to net a 2ltr setup. But i have been giving it alittle thought lately about selling my entire engine and sleeve a b20 instead. It will probably be cheaper to do that.
Just want your opinions? I need to know if the positive attributes of the B18C5's block over the B20b would have been lost since i plan to resleeve it anyways? And yes ofcourse, the b20b will be using a 89mm stroke, but are there any other important facts that i've missed out? Thanks guys.
I've bought a DC2 ITR which comes with the B18C5 engine. My plan was to sleeve the block, run 86 x 87.2 to net a 2ltr setup. But i have been giving it alittle thought lately about selling my entire engine and sleeve a b20 instead. It will probably be cheaper to do that.
Just want your opinions? I need to know if the positive attributes of the B18C5's block over the B20b would have been lost since i plan to resleeve it anyways? And yes ofcourse, the b20b will be using a 89mm stroke, but are there any other important facts that i've missed out? Thanks guys.
I say sleeve the b18c5 for 2 reasons. 1.) You save money because you don't have to buy another block. 2.) You don't have to buy a vtec conversion kit. Of course this is assuming you'd keep your b18c5 block instead of selling it. So you'd be spending a couple hundred or more on a b20 and then another 200 on a GE vtec conversion kit (highly recommended for vtec conversions because of quality and ease). Plus sleeving a b20 completely defeats the purpose of buying one. People buy them because they come from the factory 84mm. I also wouldn't recommend 86mm for a daily driver because the sleeves will be so skinny that if something were to happen to them you might not be able to bore them out anymore.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b.d.racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I also wouldn't recommend 86mm for a daily driver because the sleeves will be so skinny that if something were to happen to them you might not be able to bore them out anymore.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree. 86mm is a little on the big side for a daily-driven car.
Try 84mm. That way, if (God-forbid) anything happens, you can always over-bore.
Keep your C5 block, and resleeve to 84mm.
I agree. 86mm is a little on the big side for a daily-driven car.
Try 84mm. That way, if (God-forbid) anything happens, you can always over-bore.
Keep your C5 block, and resleeve to 84mm.
thanks for your views. I thought it would be cheaper to just build a crvtec since i already have a spare b16a2 head lying around. I only need to buy a b20b block which is not that expensive. I can sell the b18c5 complete engine and will have spare for building up the crvtec.
I have set myself a target for the output on the engine and just need opinions on the performance side of the B18c5 sleeved block vs b20b sleeved block.
I have set myself a target for the output on the engine and just need opinions on the performance side of the B18c5 sleeved block vs b20b sleeved block.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suzukii »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for your views. I thought it would be cheaper to just build a crvtec since i already have a spare b16a2 head lying around. I only need to buy a b20b block which is not that expensive. I can sell the b18c5 complete engine and will have spare for building up the crvtec.
I have set myself a target for the output on the engine and just need opinions on the performance side of the B18c5 sleeved block vs b20b sleeved block.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If u gonna sleeve something just sleeve an ls block, prolly can get one for less thatn 100, I paid i think like 75 bucks.
It would all depend on how much u can get for the r swap.
I have set myself a target for the output on the engine and just need opinions on the performance side of the B18c5 sleeved block vs b20b sleeved block.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If u gonna sleeve something just sleeve an ls block, prolly can get one for less thatn 100, I paid i think like 75 bucks.
It would all depend on how much u can get for the r swap.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GUILOTINE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the ITR motor can put out greta power to with a little love. Oh and dont forget about the better rofd ratio a B18c provides over a B20
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Im a fan of the 89mm stroke, and would call the b18c crank a disadvantage. BUT... They each have their pros and cons, and power can be made with the 87.2 aswell.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Im a fan of the 89mm stroke, and would call the b18c crank a disadvantage. BUT... They each have their pros and cons, and power can be made with the 87.2 aswell.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GUILOTINE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the ITR motor can put out greta power to with a little love. Oh and dont forget about the better rofd ratio a B18c provides over a B20
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I personally think the r/s ratio difference is insignificant.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I personally think the r/s ratio difference is insignificant.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 210-all-motor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">keep the b-series man cant go wrong with them</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you can, please point out to me where someone said to ditch the "b-series" motor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EdBoon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I personally think the r/s ratio difference is insignificant.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is something that allot of people have arguments about. To me, chances are that if you're sleeving, running big cams, and allot of compression...this isn't a motor that you really expect to last 30 plus thousand miles. If you're gonna build a motor, build a damn motor and drive it like it's meant to. If you're worried about engine longevity, then don't rev the 89 crank past 7.5. Be realsitic, your 12.5 compression pushin, big cam huffin breather isn't gonna get 100k plus miles.
If you can, please point out to me where someone said to ditch the "b-series" motor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EdBoon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I personally think the r/s ratio difference is insignificant.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is something that allot of people have arguments about. To me, chances are that if you're sleeving, running big cams, and allot of compression...this isn't a motor that you really expect to last 30 plus thousand miles. If you're gonna build a motor, build a damn motor and drive it like it's meant to. If you're worried about engine longevity, then don't rev the 89 crank past 7.5. Be realsitic, your 12.5 compression pushin, big cam huffin breather isn't gonna get 100k plus miles.
i would keep the B18C5 because its alredy Vtec and you dont have to spend money and time findin/buying/building a new block
spend your time and money on the b18c5 and upgrade the headwork and tuning
spend your time and money on the b18c5 and upgrade the headwork and tuning
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This is something that allot of people have arguments about. To me, chances are that if you're sleeving, running big cams, and allot of compression...this isn't a motor that you really expect to last 30 plus thousand miles. If you're gonna build a motor, build a damn motor and drive it like it's meant to. If you're worried about engine longevity, then don't rev the 89 crank past 7.5. Be realsitic, your 12.5 compression pushin, big cam huffin breather isn't gonna get 100k plus miles.
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I agree
This is something that allot of people have arguments about. To me, chances are that if you're sleeving, running big cams, and allot of compression...this isn't a motor that you really expect to last 30 plus thousand miles. If you're gonna build a motor, build a damn motor and drive it like it's meant to. If you're worried about engine longevity, then don't rev the 89 crank past 7.5. Be realsitic, your 12.5 compression pushin, big cam huffin breather isn't gonna get 100k plus miles.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I agree
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you can, please point out to me where someone said to ditch the "b-series" motor.
This is something that allot of people have arguments about. To me, chances are that if you're sleeving, running big cams, and allot of compression...this isn't a motor that you really expect to last 30 plus thousand miles. If you're gonna build a motor, build a damn motor and drive it like it's meant to. If you're worried about engine longevity, then don't rev the 89 crank past 7.5. Be realsitic, your 12.5 compression pushin, big cam huffin breather isn't gonna get 100k plus miles.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree aswell... cept for the part about not revvin the 89 past 7,500. Thats crazy talk!?! haha 9,500 is a better limit!!
If you can, please point out to me where someone said to ditch the "b-series" motor.
This is something that allot of people have arguments about. To me, chances are that if you're sleeving, running big cams, and allot of compression...this isn't a motor that you really expect to last 30 plus thousand miles. If you're gonna build a motor, build a damn motor and drive it like it's meant to. If you're worried about engine longevity, then don't rev the 89 crank past 7.5. Be realsitic, your 12.5 compression pushin, big cam huffin breather isn't gonna get 100k plus miles.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I agree aswell... cept for the part about not revvin the 89 past 7,500. Thats crazy talk!?! haha 9,500 is a better limit!!
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From: wEsT of WattS...NoRth oF CompTon, CA
keep the b18c. resleeve it to 84mm or 85mm. sell the b16a head that you have and go get an LS crank or trade your GSR crank for an LS crank and use that in your block. 84*89 or 85*89
Keep your current block so you don't have get a conversion kit like everyone else has said.
i would suggest to you that you run this motor only at the track. what compression are you thinking of going with? :
Keep your current block so you don't have get a conversion kit like everyone else has said.
i would suggest to you that you run this motor only at the track. what compression are you thinking of going with? :
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by f@sth@tch89 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">keep the b18c. resleeve it to 84mm or 85mm. sell the b16a head that you have and go get an LS crank or trade your GSR crank for an LS crank and use that in your block. 84*89 or 85*89
Keep your current block so you don't have get a conversion kit like everyone else has said.
i would suggest to you that you run this motor only at the track. what compression are you thinking of going with? :
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you just recommended the most expensive option for a man on a budget
Keep your current block so you don't have get a conversion kit like everyone else has said.
i would suggest to you that you run this motor only at the track. what compression are you thinking of going with? :
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you just recommended the most expensive option for a man on a budget
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From: wEsT of WattS...NoRth oF CompTon, CA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Used2beAb16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you just recommended the most expensive option for a man on a budget</TD></TR></TABLE>
he is going to resleeve anyways....
but if he doesn't want to spend a dime, them trade the gsr for crv and slap the b16 head on it. get the conversion kit and he's ready to go. 84*89=2.0 just over bore it to 84.5 or 85mm and aftermarket rods and pistons.
you just recommended the most expensive option for a man on a budget</TD></TR></TABLE>
he is going to resleeve anyways....
but if he doesn't want to spend a dime, them trade the gsr for crv and slap the b16 head on it. get the conversion kit and he's ready to go. 84*89=2.0 just over bore it to 84.5 or 85mm and aftermarket rods and pistons.
Yeah but IF he did go with the b20 he would get a sh*t load of torque in the end, I'm doin a b20 vtec in my dc2 right now.. I am using a gsr head and a resleeved b20z bottom end type r crank and eagle h beams. jun makes a badass piston kit also for this exact setup.. used for high reving circut racin.. reving beyond 8k... Yes it's alot of work, but in the end.. after proper tunning and a nice fmu few other things u can get some nice power and daily drive it.. or just bring her out on the weekends.. It's all up to you on what you want to do.. u could build a nice b20 setup with the money from sellin ur b18c5 block with the b16 head u have lyin round.. i would use the type r head on the b20 myself..
expletive K-SERIES
expletive K-SERIES
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