To start with, I did do a little research before starting this post.
(My Car is a 92 GS-R, and I'm looking to do mainly HPDE's and maybe some Auto X. Also this car is not a daily driver, but it will be driven to the track though. I will be changing my rotors and pads at the track also.)

Pro's of keeping ABS,
~A newb like me won't get flat spots on my tires.
~Dare I say shorter stopping distance.
~It will also make it less likely for you to use too much trailbraking and spin on corner entry.

Con's of keeping ABS,
~To bleed it you need to buy or have access to the $110 special honda tool unless you want to use other tedious methods to bleed the system.
~It's extra weight
~Extra problems to deal with as some times the system does not work flawlessly.(At least on my car that is)

I know this topic has been brought up before and I'm not looking to start a debate on if ABS is better or if it's worse!

All I want is your opinion on what you think would be the best thing for me to do with the specific duties of this car.

I need to figure this out in time for my first track day in February....

Thanks for your insight




Modified by SwedBoy2999 at 9:27 PM 12/6/2005

 

My 2 cents

Keep it and bleed it.
Its not that hard, the weight is minimal and the fact it could save you from flatspotting tires is much greater than your entie brakefluid cost for 4 seasons! 1 tire flatspotted and you will wish you kept it!

 

I never did any special bleeding methods on my ITR, and never had a problem with the ABS.

 

But how did you get <U>all</U> the old brake fluid out? Besides turkey baster and over and over driving the car (get the abs pressurized) then bleeding, again and again.?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SwedBoy2999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But how did you get <U>all</U> the old brake fluid out? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not certain I did.... but I never had any problem. Just flushed the system normally, once at the beginning of the year, halfway through, and at the end of the year. Lots of track time (15 weekends, 4,000+ track miles), so the ABS was cycled "a few times"

 

On my 94 I found that if I open the bleeder on the ABS unit while the engine is running, it will pump fluid out of it. Top it off and do that a few times and that is most of it. As RJ said, cycle the ABS a few times after that and it seems fine. In addition to keeping you from flatspotting the tires, it will also make it less likely for you to use too much trailbraking and spin on corner entry.

 

The ABS system in second generation Integra GSR's, 92-93 is very different in function and construction from third generation integra's. The system was marginal at best when new and after 13 years it is not worth maintaining any longer especially for a dedicated track car. It will continue to be a constant source of headaches far beyound bleeding. Your best advice is to remove the system and use the non-ABS proportioning valve, brake lines and custom lines between the proportioning valve and rear line connections.

 

One can't just swap to all RS lines?


Here is the link for the LS, RS brake lines.
http://www.acuraparts247.com/p...ch=no

Here is the link for the GS, GS-R brake lines.
http://www.acuraparts247.com/p...ch=no

I may take the ABS away if for some reason it starts to fail big time. For the time being I'm going to run it and try to not make squares out of my tires.

When I'm ready, I'll convert.

 

I never needed to do anything special to bleed it either in my 96 GS-R, but the unit stopped working and I decided to delete it instead of trying to fix it. At the same time as deleting it I did the ITR front brake upgrade, but nonetheless, the brakes felt great at the track afterwards.

 

You can swap the second-generation ABS lines to the non-ABS lines* from the master to the proportioning valve, including the proportioning valve and lines from the proportioning valve to the front wheel caliper flex line junction. But you need to make custom jumper lines or patch lines from the proportioning valve to the rear brake line manifold on an originally equipped ABS car. The rear lines are shorter on an ABS equipped car and will not reach the proportioning valve unless you build and install jumpers or patch lines.

* You will need to change one fitting or use an adapter on one of the non ABS lines running from the master to proportioning valve if you want to continue to use the ABS master cylinder. The ABS master cylinder uses a larger fitting for one outlet line to the proportioning valve.

 

so what happens when your abs fails? it just stops functioning but has no adverse effects on overall braking correct?

 

Not correct. Different results dependent on what goes bad and which unit, year ABS you are asking about. Consequences varry from total lose of braking too lose of ABS function with no adverse effects on non-ABS braking.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DB2-R81 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not correct. Different results dependent on what goes bad and which unit, year ABS you are asking about. Every consequence from total lose of braking function too lose of ABS function with no adverse effects on non-ABS braking function.</TD></TR></TABLE>Quoted for JDM-ness.

 

check with the group you are going to HPDE with. COM up this way has you disable ABS if you have it. in a spin, if you lock your tires the car will stop spinning and go one direction instead of spinning and then hooking at some random point. they feel it is safer. for autocross, check the class you want to race in. you might be required to have the abs.

nate

 

Quoted for JDM-ness.

What, please expand?

 

I dismantled all of the ABS on my car when I got it except for the unit under the hood. I never had any problems bleeding it. Just did it the same as if it had no ABS. Didnt decide to rip it out until I had to remove the lines to paint anyway.