I have this frustrating problem which I am trying to fix. I have a b18c 88CRX track car that runs a meziere pump and a full fluidyne radiator. Needless to say I have plenty of gpm flow and more than enough radiator to handle the temps my car sees at the track. Most of the time the car's temp (stock electrical) is rock solid about 1/3ish up the temp gauge. Going just straight down the road, no issues with it fluctuating. Left hand turns on track no fluctuation. Right hand turns I sometimes get this sudden rise in temp at least per the gauge that should not be approxiamating how quick the water temp could go up. Goes from 1/3 to near the read in say 4 to 5 seconds. Then it may go down just as fast. May not happen at all while I am out on track or may happen in five minutes. Sometimes I just pull into the pits, run for a minute sitting still and go back out and it may disappear.

I have checked the temp gauge. It is functioning correctly. I am going to put in the mechanicl temp gauge from Longacre as soon as I can get something like an adapter for the thread pitch where the sensor normally goes in (or fab somethign different). If I have a air bubble near the temp sensor that will make it go up in temp right? It woudl be steam vs. water. Correct? Somebody said it the other way but that does not make sense to me. Do I just need to fill it up, open the bleeder and squeeze the hoses a lot more or it this an issue sometimes? I know some PCA & NASA racers who have discussed air in the coolant passages of 944 being a problem.

I talked to meziere and it does not sound like pump cavitation to them and I now know where their bleeder hole is too in that the pump can get air in it and be a bitch as well.

I know my temp gauge works becuase the event before last I was headed home and for once the temp gauge went up near red while driving straight down the road (which had never happened). I pulled over immediately and yep it was running hot (not too fortunately) and I had it towed home. Turns out the original installer of the wiring for the pump did not do the best job and the power to the pump did go intermittent (which I thought might have been the problem originally). We chased that issue down which actually was not easy at first. It has since been rewired correctly on a "switched" electrical connection.

I hate being paranoid about the temp gauge during track sessions. Anyone have this problem? BTW anyone know of any adapters for the longacre temp probe to screw into where the honda temp sensor is or do I need to make a pipe the size of the water hoses, put in a bung and run the sensor in there? Thanks.

Barry H.

 

Possible that something is happening to the temp gauge wiring when you turn right?

Got any pics of the electric pump install, that sounds kind of neat!

 

i would check the mechanical guage first before jumping to conclusions, the stock honda guage is notorious for being inaccurate, there is a thread in this forum about guage moutning, the mechanical guages have BIG sensor they will not mount in the stock location, i went to the hardware store, 1 steel T fitting with 1/2 npt threads( or whatever your guage is), 2 barbed ends, sensor goes in one side then screw other fittings on- cut the hose that is a loop on back of block that goes from block to head, cut out a 90 degree bend out of the hose and clamp dohickey in, works great- install time 2 min.

 

The auge will read 0 degrees when it sees air bubbles because it can't read the temperature of a gas, it has to be liquid for the sensor to work, at least in my experience.

it' a stretch, but maybe you're gettign starvation at the pump, which is "stalling" the coolant in the motor, allowing the temperatur to rise...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Safir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The auge will read 0 degrees when it sees air bubbles because it can't read the temperature of a gas, it has to be liquid for the sensor to work, at least in my experience.

it' a stretch, but maybe you're gettign starvation at the pump, which is "stalling" the coolant in the motor, allowing the temperatur to rise...</TD></TR></TABLE>

If so it is a very fast rise but it is intermittent. I wish I was not getting conflicting ideas on the sensor. I am going to bleed the pump now that I know what the bleeding fitting is.

Barry H.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Safir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The auge will read 0 degrees when it sees air bubbles because it can't read the temperature of a gas, it has to be liquid for the sensor to work, at least in my experience.

it' a stretch, but maybe you're gettign starvation at the pump, which is "stalling" the coolant in the motor, allowing the temperatur to rise...</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont think that is accurate.

i may be wrong, but i have allways understood it to be that the guage can read air and thats why when you dont bleed the systme properly you can get a really high reading that isnt the true reading of the fluid

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.E.G. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i dont think that is accurate.

i may be wrong, but i have allways understood it to be that the guage can read air and thats why when you dont bleed the systme properly you can get a really high reading that isnt the true reading of the fluid</TD></TR></TABLE>

See that is what I am thinking too. The sensor does not discrminate. Why would it? Steam would be hotter too. Ah hell.

This would seem to indicate it so too.
http://autorepair.about.com/li...d.htm


Modified by apexinghonda at 10:16 PM 12/3/2005

 

RJ wanted some pump pics so here goes:

 

Neat... what did you do with the stock water pump and timing belt?

 

Less parasictic drag and more flow in gpm. You can use the stock timing belt. An idler pulley goes where the water pump was. I know several people with big V8 track cars (one with about 530rwhp) that uses a meziere and like them. I don't how much hp you gain but you do gain. When you stop the car all you have to do is leave the key in the accessory position and the pump still pump coolant through although with that full fluidyne I really don't seem to need it.

http://www.meziere.com/index.php?pgName=wpk500 (the whole kit)

the idler pulley: http://www.meziere.com/images/wpk500bzoom.jpg

Barry H.

 

or you can use an oem wp and just shave off the impeller

 

i don't think the factory gauge is accurate enough to detect air bubbles

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steady &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't think the factory gauge is accurate enough to detect air bubbles

</TD></TR></TABLE>

The gauge will only move up if there is a pretty big temp spike. If thats what the sensor is seing though, the temp gauge will move.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Neat... what did you do with the stock water pump and timing belt?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The Meziere kit includes a block off plate with idler gear to replace the stock water pump so you run the stock timing belt. It's available both with a 19 and a 22 tooth idler gear so fits all B-series engines.

http://www.meziere.com/index.php?pgName=wpk500

 

air bubbles sucks!!