Looking into building my B16 to 2 liters (want to do it right)
Time for more advice... I am thinking about mailing my B16 to either Golden Eagle or IPP and having it bored, stroked, and sleeved to 2 liters. My B16 head will get the full titanium ferrera kit....
If you had the choice, who would you trust to both supply the parts and complete the labor? I am wanting to stay all motor for now, so I am thinking of around a 11.5:1 compression that will still rev to 9-10K. I want to entrust this project to a company that will be able to produce the real HP numbers while also understanding that this car is going to be my daily driver too.
Also, cams are a question... thought about Type R cams, but with strong sleeves and high comp pistons, I might need to go more aggressive than that... but yet again, I dont want to do anything too drastic with the knowledge that I will be driving this car on a regular basis.
Give me your thoughts... maybe I am just plain out of my mind. If you think so, lemme know where I am going wrong and a better direction (in your minds).
If you had the choice, who would you trust to both supply the parts and complete the labor? I am wanting to stay all motor for now, so I am thinking of around a 11.5:1 compression that will still rev to 9-10K. I want to entrust this project to a company that will be able to produce the real HP numbers while also understanding that this car is going to be my daily driver too.
Also, cams are a question... thought about Type R cams, but with strong sleeves and high comp pistons, I might need to go more aggressive than that... but yet again, I dont want to do anything too drastic with the knowledge that I will be driving this car on a regular basis.
Give me your thoughts... maybe I am just plain out of my mind. If you think so, lemme know where I am going wrong and a better direction (in your minds).
in my mind, i wouldn't sleeve a B16...You dont really want to rev an engine to the sky...
I would rather sleeve a GsR block to 84MM with a shelf piston to produce that 11.5:1 compression you want....As far as cams you could go with some RM M22x or equal..they are great cams that make alot of power...
Many people dont know the basis of DOHC VTEC it gives you the best of both worlds, low cam profile's for best fuel economy with the swirl effect for daily driving.. Then you have a mid lobe for high rpm HP for neck breaking torque...So when you say:<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R1_Owner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, cams are a question... thought about Type R cams, but with strong sleeves and high comp pistons, I might need to go more aggressive than that... but yet again, I dont want to do anything too drastic with the knowledge that I will be driving this car on a regular basis.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
it really doesnt make sense...keep that in mind when building your engine...
I would rather sleeve a GsR block to 84MM with a shelf piston to produce that 11.5:1 compression you want....As far as cams you could go with some RM M22x or equal..they are great cams that make alot of power...
Many people dont know the basis of DOHC VTEC it gives you the best of both worlds, low cam profile's for best fuel economy with the swirl effect for daily driving.. Then you have a mid lobe for high rpm HP for neck breaking torque...So when you say:<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R1_Owner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, cams are a question... thought about Type R cams, but with strong sleeves and high comp pistons, I might need to go more aggressive than that... but yet again, I dont want to do anything too drastic with the knowledge that I will be driving this car on a regular basis.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
it really doesnt make sense...keep that in mind when building your engine...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R1_Owner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Time for more advice... I am thinking about mailing my B16 to either Golden Eagle or IPP and having it bored, stroked, and sleeved to 2 liters. My B16 head will get the full titanium ferrera kit....
If you had the choice, who would you trust to both supply the parts and complete the labor? I am wanting to stay all motor for now, so I am thinking of around a 11.5:1 compression that will still rev to 9-10K. I want to entrust this project to a company that will be able to produce the real HP numbers while also understanding that this car is going to be my daily driver too.
Also, cams are a question... thought about Type R cams, but with strong sleeves and high comp pistons, I might need to go more aggressive than that... but yet again, I dont want to do anything too drastic with the knowledge that I will be driving this car on a regular basis.
Give me your thoughts... maybe I am just plain out of my mind. If you think so, lemme know where I am going wrong and a better direction (in your minds).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't think the B16A block is a good starting point for a 2.0 liter motor. I think it would be best to resleeve a B18A/B or B18C block to 84-85mm OR just build a B20 block. All of these blocks feature a taller deck for a better rod ratio. They also have a longer stroke crank (compared to the B16A). So you avoid the expense of a stroker kit. Overall, this approach is going to be both cheaper AND better.
If you had the choice, who would you trust to both supply the parts and complete the labor? I am wanting to stay all motor for now, so I am thinking of around a 11.5:1 compression that will still rev to 9-10K. I want to entrust this project to a company that will be able to produce the real HP numbers while also understanding that this car is going to be my daily driver too.
Also, cams are a question... thought about Type R cams, but with strong sleeves and high comp pistons, I might need to go more aggressive than that... but yet again, I dont want to do anything too drastic with the knowledge that I will be driving this car on a regular basis.
Give me your thoughts... maybe I am just plain out of my mind. If you think so, lemme know where I am going wrong and a better direction (in your minds).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't think the B16A block is a good starting point for a 2.0 liter motor. I think it would be best to resleeve a B18A/B or B18C block to 84-85mm OR just build a B20 block. All of these blocks feature a taller deck for a better rod ratio. They also have a longer stroke crank (compared to the B16A). So you avoid the expense of a stroker kit. Overall, this approach is going to be both cheaper AND better.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALLMOTOR18 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is exactly what you should look at...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1441629</TD></TR></TABLE>
i wouldnt reccomend this build...been there done that...not for a daily driven vehicle..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't think the B16A block is a good starting point for a 2.0 liter motor. I think it would be best to resleeve a B18A/B or B18C block to 84-85mm OR just build a B20 block. All of these blocks feature a taller deck for a better rod ratio. They also have a longer stroke crank (compared to the B16A). So you avoid the expense of a stroker kit. Overall, this approach is going to be both cheaper AND better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i totally agree!
hey storminmatt, I remember when i use to post in resourcecrx.org back in the day...you use to know alot back then....I cant imagine how much knowledge you have now
I've always looked up to your post's and have taken down some good information from them, ever since resource
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1441629</TD></TR></TABLE>
i wouldnt reccomend this build...been there done that...not for a daily driven vehicle..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't think the B16A block is a good starting point for a 2.0 liter motor. I think it would be best to resleeve a B18A/B or B18C block to 84-85mm OR just build a B20 block. All of these blocks feature a taller deck for a better rod ratio. They also have a longer stroke crank (compared to the B16A). So you avoid the expense of a stroker kit. Overall, this approach is going to be both cheaper AND better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i totally agree!
hey storminmatt, I remember when i use to post in resourcecrx.org back in the day...you use to know alot back then....I cant imagine how much knowledge you have now
I've always looked up to your post's and have taken down some good information from them, ever since resource
why isn't that build not suitable for a daily driver? His car is DD AFAIK, its all about having a good break in and a good tune. There is also a thread with All motors ranging from 170whp - 220whp+ which are DD with no reliability problems.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mohsin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why isn't that build not suitable for a daily driver? His car is DD AFAIK, its all about having a good break in and a good tune. There is also a thread with All motors ranging from 170whp - 220whp+ which are DD with no reliability problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>
to each their own, its just my opinion..
there has been alot of debate about this, search a bit.
the piston design is prone to consume more oil than a regular forged piston build, being that of the wirst pin location and skirt size etc....
"Sheepey"'s build is pretty impressive
so do what you please...
to each their own, its just my opinion..
there has been alot of debate about this, search a bit.
the piston design is prone to consume more oil than a regular forged piston build, being that of the wirst pin location and skirt size etc....
"Sheepey"'s build is pretty impressive
so do what you please...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onepoint6i »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
to each their own, its just my opinion..
there has been alot of debate about this, search a bit.
the piston design is prone to consume more oil than a regular forged piston build, being that of the wirst pin location and skirt size etc....
"Sheepey"'s build is pretty impressive
so do what you please...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
He is right. If you are going to be drivin this build more than 100 miles a week. Do not do my type of build. It will eat more oil, and life of the piston isnt near as long as a non button type piston. Yet I did take my time with the build and made sure it was done right. Till this day no smoke, no eatin oil, but it will. And I know that. Dont get my wrong, the piston makes power, but if you want somethin u can beat up on everyday, dont go this route. My car is a weekend car only, built for one thing, the street scene. That is why I did this build. Good luck with your build.
to each their own, its just my opinion..
there has been alot of debate about this, search a bit.
the piston design is prone to consume more oil than a regular forged piston build, being that of the wirst pin location and skirt size etc....
"Sheepey"'s build is pretty impressive
so do what you please...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
He is right. If you are going to be drivin this build more than 100 miles a week. Do not do my type of build. It will eat more oil, and life of the piston isnt near as long as a non button type piston. Yet I did take my time with the build and made sure it was done right. Till this day no smoke, no eatin oil, but it will. And I know that. Dont get my wrong, the piston makes power, but if you want somethin u can beat up on everyday, dont go this route. My car is a weekend car only, built for one thing, the street scene. That is why I did this build. Good luck with your build.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onepoint6i »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I cant imagine how much knowledge you have now
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not nearly enough!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Not nearly enough!
So, what if I went to 1.8L with sleeving and around 12:1 compression???
Would that be a safer route that would still deliver wicked power and remain docile enough to be a daily driver??
I am even debating getting it to 1.8L with sleeves and a titanium vavle train and run a Garrett GT25 turbo setup... my only problem with that is being located in GA and still wanting to be able to have full interior, sterio and A/C.
Give me more thoughts... you guys are always more than helpful!
- mkh -
oh yeah... talked to a guy at Golden Eagle who is getting a price together for me. He is saying that he could build me an engine that would still be reliable, not burn oil, remain streetable, and still rev to nearly 11K. That sound possible to you gurus out there?
Modified by R1_Owner at 2:32 AM 12/5/2005
Would that be a safer route that would still deliver wicked power and remain docile enough to be a daily driver??
I am even debating getting it to 1.8L with sleeves and a titanium vavle train and run a Garrett GT25 turbo setup... my only problem with that is being located in GA and still wanting to be able to have full interior, sterio and A/C.
Give me more thoughts... you guys are always more than helpful!
- mkh -
oh yeah... talked to a guy at Golden Eagle who is getting a price together for me. He is saying that he could build me an engine that would still be reliable, not burn oil, remain streetable, and still rev to nearly 11K. That sound possible to you gurus out there?
Modified by R1_Owner at 2:32 AM 12/5/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R1_Owner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
oh yeah... talked to a guy at Golden Eagle who is getting a price together for me. He is saying that he could build me an engine that would still be reliable, not burn oil, remain streetable, and still rev to nearly 11K. That sound possible to you gurus out there?
Modified by R1_Owner at 2:32 AM 12/5/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>
-Cheap
-Fast
-Reliable
*you can only pick two
oh yeah... talked to a guy at Golden Eagle who is getting a price together for me. He is saying that he could build me an engine that would still be reliable, not burn oil, remain streetable, and still rev to nearly 11K. That sound possible to you gurus out there?
Modified by R1_Owner at 2:32 AM 12/5/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>
-Cheap
-Fast
-Reliable
*you can only pick two
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R1_Owner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, what if I went to 1.8L with sleeving and around 12:1 compression???
Would that be a safer route that would still deliver wicked power and remain docile enough to be a daily driver??
I am even debating getting it to 1.8L with sleeves and a titanium vavle train and run a Garrett GT25 turbo setup... my only problem with that is being located in GA and still wanting to be able to have full interior, sterio and A/C.
Give me more thoughts... you guys are always more than helpful!
- mkh -
oh yeah... talked to a guy at Golden Eagle who is getting a price together for me. He is saying that he could build me an engine that would still be reliable, not burn oil, remain streetable, and still rev to nearly 11K. That sound possible to you gurus out there?
Modified by R1_Owner at 2:32 AM 12/5/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>
What are your intentions with the vehicle?
If you want to have a fast street car with all the creature comforts, the look into turbo.....
Would that be a safer route that would still deliver wicked power and remain docile enough to be a daily driver??
I am even debating getting it to 1.8L with sleeves and a titanium vavle train and run a Garrett GT25 turbo setup... my only problem with that is being located in GA and still wanting to be able to have full interior, sterio and A/C.
Give me more thoughts... you guys are always more than helpful!
- mkh -
oh yeah... talked to a guy at Golden Eagle who is getting a price together for me. He is saying that he could build me an engine that would still be reliable, not burn oil, remain streetable, and still rev to nearly 11K. That sound possible to you gurus out there?
Modified by R1_Owner at 2:32 AM 12/5/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>
What are your intentions with the vehicle?
If you want to have a fast street car with all the creature comforts, the look into turbo.....
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