I just needed a basic keyless entry system. So I bought one by Audiovox. Anyway, I didn't want to pay them to put it in, and wanted to do it myself. Just wondering if what I wired up is all I need *just to get it working*. I will worry about the parking light relay, trunk release, etc later. I am just looking to get the actual thing working.

Sorry about the big picture, but just wanted people to clearly see the page. What I circled in red is what I wired up. For some reason though, it's not working...

 

Does your car have power door locks or are you adding aftermarket actuators? Just circling it in red doesn't tell us how you wired it up.

Assuming your car has power door locks, simply connect the - lock output to your - lock wire on your car, and the - unlock output to the - unlock output on your car. Ignore the + remarks. You wont be using the 2nd unlock output for now.

Where did you connect the constant 12v?

 

Sorry, didn't make my original post clear. My car does have power door locks. I have it wired to how you have discribed. The constant 12V is connected to the trunk light (which I tested). However, it still isn't working. When I press the keyfob button, the keyless unit itself does recognise it (it makes one click for lock and two for unlock), but nothing happens. Also, probably an important info-- this is in my 1990 BMW 325is. I posted in the BMW forums, but I think you guys are a little more savy.

I drew up a diagram. How should I connect it? As I said before, I have it connected like you said above.

 

Ok, update - I hooked up the Red wire from the keyless entry to the Green/black wire from the trunk. I unhooked the Green wire from the keyless entry system. The car now locks. So I hooked up the Green wire again, but nothing happens. Then I unhooked the Red wire, leaving the Green wire on the car unlock wire (Green/purple), and it unlocks!

So to sum it up, it only locks and unlocks only if both wires aren't connected at the same time. What's going on???

 

1st of all you need to know the wires and where there at. So print this diagram out:
http://www.directwholesale.net...LLDOG

2nd this is how your lock/unlock works:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ONE WILL REST (-) AND THE OTHER WILL REST(+).REVERSING THE STATE OF THE LOCKS FLIP-FLOPS THE POLARITY OF THESE TWO WIRES. PUTTING A LOW CURRENT (-)TO THE (+)WIRE WILL OPERATE THE LOCKS</TD></TR></TABLE>

so splice into the YELLOW/BLUE wire with the red one and splice into the GREEN/BLUE wire with the green one. Because when you got (-) on the unlock then you have a (+) on the lock. So the door will lock.


parking light relay:
http://64.85.6.129/extrainfo/d...M.pdf

sorry i know its confusing.

 

Romo,

Thanks for the advice. But I think I did have the wires hooked up like what you are saying. The colors of the wires are just different than what that diagram is saying. The lock is Green/Black and unlock is Green/Purple, and I had the corresponding wired hooked up to each. I even tried switching them just to be sure, but still no go... Well, I'll try to spitball it more tomorrow. Thanks again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P Nut &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Romo,

Thanks for the advice. But I think I did have the wires hooked up like what you are saying. The colors of the wires are just different than what that diagram is saying. The lock is Green/Black and unlock is Green/Purple, and I had the corresponding wired hooked up to each. I even tried switching them just to be sure, but still no go... Well, I'll try to spitball it more tomorrow. Thanks again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry man, If you dont get it by monday then ill get you the wiring. I had a program at the old shop i worked at and it was a bunch of wiring for that alarm and diff. car so if i can find one that has the flip floping locks then ill post it.

 

Thanks, bro. I might have it figured out. I think all I need is a couple of relays. But if that doesn't work, I'll let you know. Thanks again.

 

Romo,

Some guy in another forum said that I needed relays. So below is how I wired it up.



Did I do something wrong? It's still not working.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P Nut &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Romo,

Some guy in another forum said that I needed relays. So below is how I wired it up.



Did I do something wrong? It's still not working.</TD></TR></TABLE> No, and it can't... the, yellow/blue, [lock] and green/blue, [unlock] need a neg. (-) pulse, what you may want to try is install a diode on the red, [(-) lock] and green, [(-) unlock output wires form the Audiovox unit, so the wire that is not being pulsed does not see the pos. (+) pulse, seems to work if you disconnect one of the leads

This is the proper way to do it.... http://www.directwholesale.net...LLDOG it is the one I use when doing door locks on a 90 3 series BMW, don't forget to read warning 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> No, and it can't... the, yellow/blue, [lock] and green/blue, [unlock] need a neg. (-) pulse, what you may want to try is install a diode on the red, [(-) lock] and green, [(-) unlock output wires form the Audiovox unit, so the wire that is not being pulsed does not see the pos. (+) pulse, seems to work if you disconnect one of the leads

This is the proper way to do it.... http://www.directwholesale.net...LLDOG it is the one I use when doing door locks on a 90 3 series BMW, don't forget to read warning 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

dang you beat me 2 it. j/k, I did a install on a car today and it had the same thing took me a while to find out how to do it untill i saw the box with the diodes in it. Like stated above use the little black things.

Fcm back to the rescue!!

 

Holy crap, this is getting more and more complicated!!!

Thanks for the replies. I'll try that out tomorrow.

One more question. In the last diagram, I have the 12V going into 86. But on the box the relay came in, it says to use 87. Which is right? Or does it matter?

 

The way you have the relays wired, should work to isolate the pos. (+) output from the Audiovox, [as relay would not trigger with a pos. (+) pulse] from the BMWs door lock relays, the relays you added should work like diodes, [keeping 12V+ from getting to other wire when the low current neg. (-) is being supplied to the wire you want to trigger].
Not sure why it's not working, unless the relays add too much load or you are out of sequence.

Remember you can't be out of sequence, thats why there is a warning, not to use the key less if you have used the key in the door to lock the door, the Audiovox must be supplying the low current neg. (-) lock signal to the BMWs lock wire, [yellow/blue ] only if the doors are unlocked, if it supplies that neg. (-) when the doors are already locked, you can damage the BMWs door lock system, the same would be true for unlocking. 94

 

Thanks, fcm.

I also posted this on another site and a guy named "StereoInstaller" said this:

"Close, but not quite right. Your relays are laid out wrong: Coil is 85 and 86, common is 30, NC is 87a, NO is 87.

Here is what you want:
+12V on 85
-12V trigger (from keyless brain) on 86
-12V on 30
Output (to car's L/UL wires) is 87
87A is unused

This will give you adequate amperage on the lock and unlock wires. Remember to NOT have the door open while testing, or trick the door into thinking it is open by latching the door latch. "

Seems like I'm getting different answers. What do you think about what this guy's saying?

 

He is correct about the layout, but only as it relates to how and where you placed the pins, and where you get your ground, it makes no diff. if 30 or 87 are used for input or output, all that is happening when relay is "triggered" is 30 and 87 get connected.
The other thing he is doing differently is he is getting the ground the goes to the BMWs door lock relays from chassis ground, [high current 25/30 amp depending on relays rating] you are getting yours from the Audiovox's door lock and unlock neg. (-) output triggers. [low current 250mA]

The BMWs relays only need a low current ground, but because you are already driving one relay and going through that relay with your ground, there may not be "enough" ground left over.
I would still just use diodes instead of relays, or just change your 87, disconnect the trigger from the Audiovox and run 87 to chassis ground, that will make it the same as what he told you. 94

 

I think that drawing your constant 12V from the trunk light may be a problem. I'm not sure on BMWs but on some Hondas this wire has a 3AMP fuse on it.

 

Holy %$#! I give up. I tried wiring them up every which way, but no go. I really appreciate you guys' time and inputs, but I am fed up trying to hook this up in the 20 degree weather. I guess I will take it to a shop or something...

Anyway, thanks to all, again.

 

One quick question for you guru's.

Can I tack on some extra wire and extend the antenna on the alarm system for better reception?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P Nut &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One quick question for you guru's.

Can I tack on some extra wire and extend the antenna on the alarm system for better reception?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Never tried it but its pretty much free. So give it a try.

Btw where are you getting your power from?

 

I was getting it from the trunk light, which is a 12V, but I also tried directly from the battery.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P Nut &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was getting it from the trunk light, which is a 12V, but I also tried directly from the battery.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I see. To tell you the truth take it to a shop and get it done. Maybe the place you bought it from might even give you a discount because you bought it from them.

 

Yeah, that's what I'll do. Thanks for the help, though.