Well I recently had a little problem with my OEM ITR engine here -> https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1442398

I had a few questions on rebuilding it. I'm planning to build it back to OEM specs with just i/h/e.

1. Reuse old or buy ARP head/rod bolts?
2. Threadlocker?
3. How should I clean the head?
4. I've heard the Honda hone is the best hone and I shouldn't rehone unless there is major damage.....

Any other suggestions?

 

1. arp head/rod bolts are not a bad idea even if you are not going all out
2. not a necessity
3. have it hot tanked and milled then when you get it back put a thick towel under it and tape it to the sides so you dont have to worry about messing up the bottom
4. no matter what you do you must rehone the motor unless you do not want the new rings to seat right

 

well it seems like yyou want to do a cheap put back together "rebuild". I would reccomend against so as it wouldnt be too much more to do some things better.

First off, judging by the mileage and pictures of the last motor, it looks like you have abit of ear on the cylinder walls. I would be extremely reluctant to just put new rings in the bottom and be done with it. I would wager to say you NEED to put new oversize pistons in there. i know its probably not what you want to hear, but its going to last more than 10k miles (which i would say is on the generous side) if you just stick new rings in the current setup. I know you can get a set of topline (who have made OE honda pistons in the past) ITR pistons (.010", .020" and .030") with rings for less than $300. I would reccomend going .020" over so that you have a nice new cylinder to use. New rings which will seal undoubtedly, and a motor which will last you possibly another 98k miles.

While your head is off, and being in the condition it appears to be, I would get a nice competition valve job and rebuild done so you have a carbon free motor rather than a fresh bottom with a trashed head.

I would get head studs, but i personally like AEBS better. (seem to be able to re-use them more than the ARPs). if you have OEM ITR rods, i dont think ARP rod bolts are necessary as the ITR rods have upgraded rod bolts from the factory.
Threadlocker is not needed, nor do i reccomend it on the studs.

I definately feel that just putting in parts that need to be replaced is not the way to go on your motor. I would get the parts I talked about above and maybe some valvetrain for future upgrading.

feel free to ask me anything i havent made clear or any other questions you have

-Francisco

 

I appreciate the input very much

I do not and have not gone cheap when it comes to this car. I really don't have any plans to make any significant upgrades to it, so I don't think aftermarket valvetrain is needed.

If I take it to a machine shop, they'll tell me whether or not I need just a hone or if I need it over-bored correct?

My main goal is to rebuild the engine to last me another 98k

 

well good. I am glad to see other R owners care about their car to not half *** stuff. A machine shop will tell you whether or not you should overbore, but any good one, will tell you that something like what you have (and any over 75k) will need to go bigger.

good luck