Im about to replace my rotors and pads but before I do Id like to see if anyone knows the right way to break them in. ie; first stop 30-0, 2nd 30-0, 3rd 40-0 or something like that. Ive heard how to do it before but I dont remember exactly

 

dont know what the procedure is, but what i have usually done was get the rotors/pads really warmed up, i've done 60-0 stops like 6 times and my rotors and pads still look okay... btw this was both on my 91 accord (brembo blanks/hawk hps) and for my 92 civic (autozone rotors/axxis ultimates)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D21X &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont know what the procedure is, but what i have usually done was get the rotors/pads really warmed up, i've done 60-0 stops like 6 times and my rotors and pads still look okay... btw this was both on my 91 accord (brembo blanks/hawk hps) and for my 92 civic (autozone rotors/axxis ultimates) </TD></TR></TABLE>

there's general rules but to be damn honest, theres no universal "the one" formula

 

Cool, thanks fellas

 

For the first hundred miles you should avoid clamping down the brake to a complete stop. Lots of people can't possibly do that in real-life traffic, so here's what to do. Find a time/place where the traffic won't get you in trouble.

Brake hard from 50 to 5. Repeat 10 or 20 times with a couple minutes between each for cooling. Don't stop all the way.

If you stop completely, clamping NEW brake pads down on a HOT rotor that isn't turning, the pad material imprints unevenly on the surface of the rotor. Then your brakes shudder & shake because of the uneven surface.

 

Where are you getting this 'beat the **** outta your new pads and rotors' idea??? This isin't like seating new rings on a freshly honed bore of a rebuilt motor! Dude... take it easy on your pads and rotors for a while. Don't go testing them out at every light. Drive 200-300 miles at a minimum, just cruising like you old man would. You will feel the brakes start to firm up after they have worked their way to their settling point. Once you've hit 400 miles, you should be home free. Do what ever tha hell you want to them. Try some brake stands for all I care. But just don't go standing on the brake pedal until they're settled in.

JimBlake has the right idea if you want to give them a little try, but be certain that you don't clamp them as he's stated.

 

Alright, I think I got everything now. Thanks

 

Not sure about the Stop hard method. The method I got when attending the "Mighty" Brake class was to not do any hard braking for at least 100 miles. Gentle and light giving yourself as much room as possible. Gently bed them in.

The "shudder" is cause by an uneven rotor but is is usually caused by excessive run out. Many times this is because of rust growth behind the rotor. Or when turned on the off car lathe you ended up with a couple of thou of run out and then mated it to an uneven hub and got another couple of thou of runout. combined its not much but after a few thousand miles its enough cause the pad to wear a spot in the rotor. When you have your rotor off you should sand the hub and inside of the rotor. This is why its better to turn you rotors on the car if you have the equipment avail.

 

I use Monroe Premium Brake Pads, man they rocks, I never had stopping power like this even with OEM brake pads.

Proper break-in is one of the most important factors in determining brake pad performance, as it seats the pads for optimum performance. MonroeŽ recommends 15 to 20 gentle stops from 20 mph. MonroeŽ Premium Brake Pads' positive molding technology does not require burnishing.


I got a good deal on them and now I know they are good
if you need more info on them here http://www.monroebrakes.com/support/faq.asp

btw I am not a Monroe sales men