D series OBD/oilpump discovery, might help u cali folks
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From: not riding any bandwagons in, massachusetts, usa
a customers gf has a 97 civic with a d16y8 that threw a rod and we came up with a cheap Z6 to put in it. problem was in massachusetts inspections are strict like california so it had to retain the obd2 ECU and incase you dont know, obd2 uses a crank trigger whereas obd1 does not.
you can use a d16z6 engine and take the Y8's oilpump, crank trigger, oilpan and rear seal cover to make the d16z6 obd2. the y8 or z6 oil pickup will work. the only thing is that the rear main seal cover has one bolt hole off a little. to remedy, i bolted the two covers to each other and used a 1/4 drill through the proper hole of the z6 and into the Y8, which worked perfectly with a washer on the bolt. the Y8 cover, pump and pan are all on the z6 now.
the Y8 pump is also rumoured to flow much less than the Z6 pump. i tore them both down for grinding/machining and the ONLY difference is that the Y8 pump has a larger plug at the 90 degree intersect for the blocks main feed and is bored larger for that first inch, otherwise everything identical. i dont know if that could cause the reduction in flow but i streamlined and slightly reduced the area with devcon epoxy to make the turn less turbulent and im sure its a huge improvement. i think the flow story may be a myth and that the Y8's spin more bearings because the crankshaft's oil feeds arent chamfered, which i do anyways and never spin bearings.
hope this helps someone.
you can use a d16z6 engine and take the Y8's oilpump, crank trigger, oilpan and rear seal cover to make the d16z6 obd2. the y8 or z6 oil pickup will work. the only thing is that the rear main seal cover has one bolt hole off a little. to remedy, i bolted the two covers to each other and used a 1/4 drill through the proper hole of the z6 and into the Y8, which worked perfectly with a washer on the bolt. the Y8 cover, pump and pan are all on the z6 now.
the Y8 pump is also rumoured to flow much less than the Z6 pump. i tore them both down for grinding/machining and the ONLY difference is that the Y8 pump has a larger plug at the 90 degree intersect for the blocks main feed and is bored larger for that first inch, otherwise everything identical. i dont know if that could cause the reduction in flow but i streamlined and slightly reduced the area with devcon epoxy to make the turn less turbulent and im sure its a huge improvement. i think the flow story may be a myth and that the Y8's spin more bearings because the crankshaft's oil feeds arent chamfered, which i do anyways and never spin bearings.
hope this helps someone.
Wow good info now this means D17 cranks can be swapped into A6, Z6 blocks without seriously sacrificing oiling... if one were so inclined for a drag engine or dyno queen... etc.
Anyway Mike long time no see, haven't read your wonderful posts since the endyn forum was closed... how did the pilgrimage to mecca (fort worth) go?
PS is that an A1 head in your avatar?
Anyway Mike long time no see, haven't read your wonderful posts since the endyn forum was closed... how did the pilgrimage to mecca (fort worth) go?
PS is that an A1 head in your avatar?
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From: not riding any bandwagons in, massachusetts, usa
no trip ever made and yes it is a d16a1 head i did a cam degree fixture for. not that the head matters, just thought the colors made for an eye catching image.
and i have no idea about d17 stuff, never saw one in my life.. all i can guarantee is the d16z6 can run a d16Y8 oilpump, pan and cover.
and thanks for the flattery, i do my best. check http://www.themacaddress.com for endyners, halfway down the forums page.
and i have no idea about d17 stuff, never saw one in my life.. all i can guarantee is the d16z6 can run a d16Y8 oilpump, pan and cover.
and thanks for the flattery, i do my best. check http://www.themacaddress.com for endyners, halfway down the forums page.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and i have no idea about d17 stuff, never saw one in my life.. all i can guarantee is the d16z6 can run a d16Y8 oilpump, pan and cover.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The D17 pumps bolt on as well. The D17 crank/rods/pistons drop into the D16 block if you notch the base of the bores to clearance it for rod swing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The D17 pumps bolt on as well. The D17 crank/rods/pistons drop into the D16 block if you notch the base of the bores to clearance it for rod swing.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">know the crank stroke and rod length on that d17 combo, or perhaps how far out of/below the deck the pistons would stick up on a 1.6?</TD></TR></TABLE>
94.4mm Stroke, 137mm Rod length (same as all 1.6 rods but a 3mm thinner big end), .040 below deck with a stock deck height.
I actually run this combo in my Z6 block and it's turboed. The low end torque is really impressive.
94.4mm Stroke, 137mm Rod length (same as all 1.6 rods but a 3mm thinner big end), .040 below deck with a stock deck height.
I actually run this combo in my Z6 block and it's turboed. The low end torque is really impressive.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jim Truett »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I actually run this combo in my Z6 block and it's turboed. The low end torque is really impressive.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No kidding! that thing must be a real stump puller by Honda standards. I considered hunting down a D17 crank for my Z6 but decided against it because of the oil pump thing...
What are the HP and torque numbers on your D17Z6?
I actually run this combo in my Z6 block and it's turboed. The low end torque is really impressive.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No kidding! that thing must be a real stump puller by Honda standards. I considered hunting down a D17 crank for my Z6 but decided against it because of the oil pump thing...
What are the HP and torque numbers on your D17Z6?
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From: not riding any bandwagons in, massachusetts, usa
d15 DX pistons have a .030" taller compression height and are perfectly flat if you ever do another one. may require some valve relief work on the exhaust side.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">d15 DX pistons have a .030" taller compression height and are perfectly flat if you ever do another one. may require some valve relief work on the exhaust side.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very true, but for this motor I went with the PLR (01+ EX) pistons for their uniform dish and very minimal valve reliefs on the intake side only. I'm already at 10.5:1 static CR, and it has been an effort to tune it on 91 octane CARB gas even at only 10 psi.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Justin Jones »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No kidding! that thing must be a real stump puller by Honda standards. I considered hunting down a D17 crank for my Z6 but decided against it because of the oil pump thing...
What are the HP and torque numbers on your D17Z6?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You also need to bore a Z6 crank pulley to 28mm if you want to retain AC and PS like I have. Otherwise you can get away with a B16 pulley.
I'm building a fresh T3 based kit with a new manifold right now, and I haven't dynoed my current setup. With the stroke I would expect somewhere in the range of 250whp and 230-240Tq in the near future.
Very true, but for this motor I went with the PLR (01+ EX) pistons for their uniform dish and very minimal valve reliefs on the intake side only. I'm already at 10.5:1 static CR, and it has been an effort to tune it on 91 octane CARB gas even at only 10 psi.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Justin Jones »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No kidding! that thing must be a real stump puller by Honda standards. I considered hunting down a D17 crank for my Z6 but decided against it because of the oil pump thing...
What are the HP and torque numbers on your D17Z6?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You also need to bore a Z6 crank pulley to 28mm if you want to retain AC and PS like I have. Otherwise you can get away with a B16 pulley.
I'm building a fresh T3 based kit with a new manifold right now, and I haven't dynoed my current setup. With the stroke I would expect somewhere in the range of 250whp and 230-240Tq in the near future.
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From: not riding any bandwagons in, massachusetts, usa
i looked a little closer at the stroke, thats .173" over d16 stroke, so im guessing that, since the rod length is unchanged, the D17 pistons have a much different compression height to be .040 below the deck. d15 or d16 pistons would be sticking out atleast .100" if im thinking straight. do you have any photos of the d17 piston crowns or pin height/ring package jim?
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