So I have an OBD1 B20 and I constantly get a code 41 which is heated O2 sensor code.

The code comes on at the same time every time I drive the car. It comes on like 4 minutes after I start the car.

I thougtht I had a broken O2 so I got a new one and low and behold the check engine light still came on at the same exact time it always came on.

So from that I know its not the O2 but what else can it be?
Why does it come on at the same time every time?

This started after I drove through a deep puddle. Leading me to believe that the O2 got submerged and damaged. Thats what I thought but since I got a new O2 and it still comes on I dont know what to believe. Could some water have gotten into the cat or something? I am at a loss.

I hope someone can help me out.

 

bump

 

Hhhmm.

Your car and engine are both obd1 right? Silly question, did you give your ecu enough time to clear the code before driving it?

 

i got an obd1 lsvtec setup in my 99 hatch and this **** happens to me too, but im pretty sure its because my o2 is bad when i shake it, it sounds like rocks are in it.

 

what kind of car is this in?

 

Code 41 is hard electrical fault. It's kind of interesting that it takes 4 minutes to come on though. Usually that or Code 65 (for the secondary) trip the CEL during the 2 sec window while the fuel pump primes.

So if he reset the ECU by pulling the negative battery cable, the code is gone. You have been resetting the ECU, right?

Since it's a new O2, bust out a multimeter and start checking for shorts, opens, continuity and voltages. You might need a Helms manual if you're unsure of exactly what to check.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's kind of interesting that it takes 4 minutes to come on though. Usually that or Code 65 (for the secondary) trip the CEL during the 2 sec window while the fuel pump primes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed.
I thought that was weird as-well. I've had that code for a few months now, and it comes on as-soon as I turn the key..... ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mwieczorek43 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...and it comes on as-soon as I turn the key..... ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like the heater section in your O2 burned out. Grab a multi-meter and measure the resistance between the two black wires on the O2 harness (disconnect from main engine harness first). Should read between 15-40 ohms.

 

mine takes like 2-4 minutes to come on havnt really timed it but its something like that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Code 41 is hard electrical fault. It's kind of interesting that it takes 4 minutes to come on though. Usually that or Code 65 (for the secondary) trip the CEL during the 2 sec window while the fuel pump primes.

So if he reset the ECU by pulling the negative battery cable, the code is gone. You have been resetting the ECU, right?

Since it's a new O2, bust out a multimeter and start checking for shorts, opens, continuity and voltages. You might need a Helms manual if you're unsure of exactly what to check.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I reset the ecu all the time. I either pull the battery cable, pull the ecu, or pull the ecu backup fuse.

I have a helms. I didnt think Id have to break it out since I thought I could just repace the part. Heh, now comes the fun part of tracking down the gremlins!


Modified by Rockinfunzone at 3:42 PM 11/17/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpoolinEK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of car is this in?</TD></TR></TABLE>

1992 hatch
2001 B20Z
using a P75 ecu

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mwieczorek43 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hhhmm.

Your car and engine are both obd1 right? Silly question, did you give your ecu enough time to clear the code before driving it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I unplug the ecu all the time but it still comes back

Here is my setup:

its a 92 civic hatch
2001 B20Z
using a P75 ecu
with a 95 integra harness

 

Does anyone know what color the wires are from the engine harness to the O2? The colors change so I dont know what they end up as when they get to the ECU

 

The ecu side should be org/wht Can't remember off hand what the o2 side is, but its definitly spot "4" if looking from the wire side of the female connector (bottom right).

I have a hard code 41 too. built LS with a chipped p75. Just put an o2 in it today and no dif... wtf

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gearhead313 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The ecu side should be org/wht Can't remember off hand what the o2 side is, but its definitly spot "4" if looking from the wire side of the female connector (bottom right).

I have a hard code 41 too. built LS with a chipped p75. Just put an o2 in it today and no dif... wtf</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like the same problem and practically the same motor since an LS and a B20 are similiar. What kinda miles per gallon are you getting?

 

ttt

 

Well... here's my setup:

.25mm over ctr pistons
light head port
crower 404's springs/retainers
hacked spoon program in p75 obdI
rc370's w/ SAFCII

Right now I get around 10 mpg. I had to stop driving it since I have to run it on at least sunoco 94 octane. I wish i could figure it out.

 

I thought obdI didn't use a O2 heater. I know Uberdata has a way to disable it. If you have a chipped ECU you should be able to disbale it.

 

uberdata here I come!

 

good call dana!!!

 

ttt

 

obd1 uses heater, listen to what everyones telling u, get aq multimeter and test the feed and ground. if u don't know how to use one, take it to the shop!

 

does crome have the o2 heater delete?

 

i didnt think there was an obd 1 b20....