I've got a '97 Accord SE (basically a fancied-up LX).

For $500-$700, what sorts of suspension work should I do? Right now, I've got 205/40/17 summer rubber and KYB struts. Everything else suspension/grip-wise is bone stock.

 

For $680 you can pick up a Tein Basic Coilover setup... that should do you pretty good.

 

if you can find apexi coilovers for a good price, i say go for it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vt4cPwn35 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For $680 you can pick up a Tein Basic Coilover setup... that should do you pretty good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
for this setup

 

For 285.00 to 320.00 you can install a Front and Rear Anti-Sway Bar kit and get an even bigger hit for the buck. I use Suspension Techniques' with good success.

You should also entertain installing KYB AGX Adjustable Struts Front and Rear. These make for a great combination.

The only consession to coil-overs I'll make is if you're looking to lower your SE, so be it. But a set of heavy duty springs in the stock location work just the same.
In reality, if the roads in Washinton State are anything like the NorthEast, lowering your car may be the Last thing you want to do.

P

 

tein s. tech springs

 

i have AGX's and sportlines springs...hoping to get new bushings and an ST rear sway this spring/summer

id take damper adjustment over height adujstment any day of the week

 

What do you think labor is for the front/real installation of the sways? Will the ST bushings be squeaky like some urethanes?

Thanx! Just jumping in...

 

I used "moly" lube (molithium Disulphide)(cam assembly lube) and haven't heard a peep.

You remember this stuff; Jet black out of the Tube, and took 4 days to come off your fingers.

Labor?
Front: 1.0 to 1.5hr (have to drop exhaust @ front of converter, cuz can't get bar over exh otherwise.)
Rear: 0.75hr

P

 

Omnipower
K sport
D2

All are around the 700 range, maybe a little more

The only thing that will get you into the 5-600 slot are shocks/struts and springs.

 

Nother question, in the guide they said rear is recommended, but what's the ad/disadvantage for going both?

 

What guide, and what recommendation?

 

Sorry, the basic Accord guide, at the end of the first post, says recommend the rear sway only. Just wondered why...

 

That's primarily for those who like to drift (why I don't know) and those that can handle a car set up for oversteer.
It somewhat contradicts what Honda does with the EX. IE: Larger Front bar and the addition of a rear bar.
The ST set-ups go one step furthur than the EX bars; they are heavier in gauge, and are of a higher rate (stiffer)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P_Adams &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's primarily for those who like to drift (why I don't know) and those that can handle a car set up for oversteer.
It somewhat contradicts what Honda does with the EX. IE: Larger Front bar and the addition of a rear bar.
The ST set-ups go one step furthur than the EX bars; they are heavier in gauge, and are of a higher rate (stiffer)</TD></TR></TABLE>

They do the rear bar only to counteract the natural oversteer of a fwd car right?

So the ST bars are similar to the EX setup just heavier duty? Just making sure i understand what you are saying. Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dmurphy2k3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They do the rear bar only to counteract the natural oversteer of a fwd car right?

So the ST bars are similar to the EX setup just heavier duty? Just making sure i understand what you are saying. Thanks. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ST bar is thicker diameter to stock.

the point of a rear sway is to counteract a FWD car's natural tendancy to understeer. a "stronger" bar will help pull the inside rear wheel along, as well as keeping vertical picthing (rolling) of the chassis during turning.

 

"In reality, if the roads in Washinton State are anything like the NorthEast, lowering your car may be the Last thing you want to do."

No, Washington roads are actually pretty well kept up overall, at least in the Greater Seattle area where I am...

 

Actually, it has more to do with engine placement and weight bias, as opposed to which wheels' being driven. Traditionally, the bar (or the heavier of the two) is always mounted to the heavier end of the vehicle.
IE: Engine front / RWD have the heavy bar in the front (GM A Body thru '79) etc.
IE: Engine Rear / RWD had the heavy bar in the rear (Corvairs, VW's)
IE: Engine Front / FWD have the heavy bar in front

These configurations where for production vehicles which required a bias to under-steering (Plowing around curves) as opposed to over-steer because of the cars tendency to swap ends and predictability issues.

As an illustration.
Engine Front / FWD with bar in rear only.
The body would roll excessively due to front weight, rear bar would have tendency to unload inboard tire (lift) thru corner, loosing traction and directional control.
Generally, adding more bar in the rear (as compared to the front) will add over-steer.

It's all a matter of balanced forces front/rear torsional forces. That's why I always recommend The ST F&R Kits.

EX set-up? Yes. BUT; you can't mount the EX rear bar to any other than an EX. Although the trailing arms will accept them, the chassis crossmember isn't drilled for the inner mounts, and would require some modification.

P

 

Hmmm, interesting stuff. I know Accords (and other FWD/FE cars) are heavily bias in the front. I've been trying to figure out ways to transplant front-end weight to the rear. Any ideas? And how much is ST F&R kit?

 

Omnipower..there 649 shipped from some online store on here...check in the sponser marketplace...

 

Thanks fw and p_adams
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chiefyaccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I've been trying to figure out ways to transplant front-end weight to the rear. Any ideas? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Battery Relocation is one way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dmurphy2k3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks fw and p_adams

Battery Relocation is one way. </TD></TR></TABLE>

dump the a/c, radio, heater core, wiper, wiper motor, fuild, PS, etc and put a cf hood on it, but it's not everyone's taste.

Although i have a front and rear set, i only recommend a rear, for various reasons.

some omnipower struct are now tearing up in front, go search.

 

I've seen ST sets run from 285.00 + depending on vendor, sales going on.

As to biasing weight to the rear:
It's pretty much been covered: Battery in trunk, and put underhood on a diet.

P

 

koni yellows and ground control have a friend that had that set up on his accord said it handled better than is ek with jic's

 

I am newbie here, I hope I am posting in the right place. I am planning to use CB or CD accord rear sway bar to CA accord. I noticed that there are some variation in thier diameter. I manage to find out the one for CD are 15mm but not sure for the CB. I would appreciate if any of you know the actual diameter of any of them. Thanks