Gauges
I just bought some autometer gauges for my turbo civic. A air/fuel ratio gauge and oil pressure gauge. I was looking at the directions and it really has bad directions. Anyone know how to install these gauges? am i suppose to hook them up the black wire to the dash and the red wire to the power? I didnt think it was that simple cuz it came with other parts. the gauges only have a black and red wire coming out of them, so I dunno really. Any help would be much appreciated, thx.
Just two wires? Seems kind of weird. Normally you have the power, ground, and sender input. Usually a Red, Black, and White (the last one changes here and there).
Is the oil pressure guage electric (came with a sender) or does it have a fitting on the back for an actual oil line?
Is the oil pressure guage electric (came with a sender) or does it have a fitting on the back for an actual oil line?
I would ditch the A/F guage (useless)
Get an EGT gauge, Boost gauge(of course) and oil pressure gauge. I have a mechanical oil pressure (much more accurate then electronic).
DAN
Get an EGT gauge, Boost gauge(of course) and oil pressure gauge. I have a mechanical oil pressure (much more accurate then electronic).
DAN
first off get a boost gauge for your turbo car, pretty important to know how much boost you are putting into the motor. unless you have some other way of monitoring boost.
the air/fuel gauge should have a red (power), a black (ground) and a purple (o2 signal). as mentioned before they really dont do anything and wont eally help you monitor your A/F ratio with any accuracy. a wideband would be the way to go to monitor AFR accurately.
the oil pressure will have a red and black for power and ground. this is for the lighting. also it will with have a electric sender if its an electic gauge or it will have a spot to connect a hose to it (mechanical). if its electric you will need to run your own wire from the gauge to the sendor and then install the sender to the block. i would suggest remotely mounting the sender because its pretty big and you will risk it breaking and messing yup your block.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DannyDeuce »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I have a mechanical oil pressure (much more accurate then electronic).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
why do you say one is more accurate than the other? each have the chance of being miscalibated or something but i dont see how one would measure pressure better than the other. also i dont think its a good idea to run an oil line into the cabin, leaks could make a mess and be dangerous. i know for a fact that tracks will not pass you for tech inspection if you have any mechanical oil or fuel gauges, for that same reason.
the air/fuel gauge should have a red (power), a black (ground) and a purple (o2 signal). as mentioned before they really dont do anything and wont eally help you monitor your A/F ratio with any accuracy. a wideband would be the way to go to monitor AFR accurately.
the oil pressure will have a red and black for power and ground. this is for the lighting. also it will with have a electric sender if its an electic gauge or it will have a spot to connect a hose to it (mechanical). if its electric you will need to run your own wire from the gauge to the sendor and then install the sender to the block. i would suggest remotely mounting the sender because its pretty big and you will risk it breaking and messing yup your block.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DannyDeuce »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I have a mechanical oil pressure (much more accurate then electronic).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
why do you say one is more accurate than the other? each have the chance of being miscalibated or something but i dont see how one would measure pressure better than the other. also i dont think its a good idea to run an oil line into the cabin, leaks could make a mess and be dangerous. i know for a fact that tracks will not pass you for tech inspection if you have any mechanical oil or fuel gauges, for that same reason.
Re: mechanical gauge being more accurate.
- don't know, its just from what I have read and researched
Like i said earlier, A/F gauge is garbage......nice little light show though.
DAN
- don't know, its just from what I have read and researched
Like i said earlier, A/F gauge is garbage......nice little light show though.
DAN
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dpetro1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the oil pressure will have a red and black for power and ground. this is for the lighting. also it will with have a electric sender if its an electic gauge or it will have a spot to connect a hose to it (mechanical). if its electric you will need to run your own wire from the gauge to the sendor and then install the sender to the block. i would suggest remotely mounting the sender because its pretty big and you will risk it breaking and messing yup your block.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where exactly should you mount the sender? Im doin the same thing
the oil pressure will have a red and black for power and ground. this is for the lighting. also it will with have a electric sender if its an electic gauge or it will have a spot to connect a hose to it (mechanical). if its electric you will need to run your own wire from the gauge to the sendor and then install the sender to the block. i would suggest remotely mounting the sender because its pretty big and you will risk it breaking and messing yup your block.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where exactly should you mount the sender? Im doin the same thing
most people use a fitting in the block and then use a stainless line to go from the block to the sender. this takes the weight off the back of the block.
http://www.tunertoys.com has a fitting you could use or you could just mount a brass tee on the firewall and run everything that way.
for example https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=377208
flamenco-t (stan) also sells a kit that you could use for sender relocation.
http://www.tunertoys.com has a fitting you could use or you could just mount a brass tee on the firewall and run everything that way.
for example https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=377208
flamenco-t (stan) also sells a kit that you could use for sender relocation.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DannyDeuce »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
- don't know, its just from what I have read and researched
DAN</TD></TR></TABLE>
i mean ive heard this too but never really seen any real evidence. you just kinda made it sound like the electric gauges are no good and inaccurate. even if there is a difference it is probably so small that it really wouldnt matter.
- don't know, its just from what I have read and researched
DAN</TD></TR></TABLE>
i mean ive heard this too but never really seen any real evidence. you just kinda made it sound like the electric gauges are no good and inaccurate. even if there is a difference it is probably so small that it really wouldnt matter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dpetro1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i mean ive heard this too but never really seen any real evidence. you just kinda made it sound like the electric gauges are no good and inaccurate. even if there is a difference it is probably so small that it really wouldnt matter. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree.
I had no personal experiences with both of them.
DAN
i mean ive heard this too but never really seen any real evidence. you just kinda made it sound like the electric gauges are no good and inaccurate. even if there is a difference it is probably so small that it really wouldnt matter. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree.
I had no personal experiences with both of them.
DAN
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