LS problems
ok so i have ls swap in my hatch and i'm having some issues with it...I posted a thread in the eg forum but i'm not getting much response so i figure this will be a good place to post it too considering it's an integra engine and that's what i'm having problems with...I apologize in advance if i'm breaking any rules
OK i have a b18b1 with a gsr tranny in my 94 hatch and it seems to run/ pull pretty well for what it is, but i've been having some issues lately. It has quite a few problems, so please read and help if you can.
When i first finished the swap, about 2 months ago, my ignition timing was WAY off and every now and then when i would go to get on it, it would feel as if something was holding it back or i had a ton of weight in the car and other times it would not.
Well we messed with the timing numorous times and got it decent, then i got off my lazy *** and bought a timing gun. i like to think it's set right now, because it has felt alot better.
Well now it started to do it again (where it feels like it's holding back/lot o'extra weight). I have yet to check my timing with the gun, but i'd assume it would still be within specs. A friend said it could possibly be clogged injectors, so i bought some injector cleaner (can't remember the name off the top of my head) but that didn't help. This hesitation, or whatever you want to call it, only occurs from 1.5 to about 3.5k rpm. Yesterday i seafoamed it, changed my oil/filter, and spark plugs and it still has the hesitiatioin/idle issue. When i pulled out my plugs however, they were covered in oil so i obviously need a new vc gasket.
Maybe the little bit of oil getting on them is causing this stuff?
Is there any way to test the injectors if this is a possible problem?
Also on good days it idles right but on a bad one it will cold idle at 2k and drop to around 1.5to 1.6k, when warmed up. Not only that, but when in neutral and I give it a blip it will rev up and drop down to 1k then raise back up to 1.5ish k.
The check engine light used to be on, but it was for a bad 02 sensor so i replaced that and i still get a cel on occasion. The cel and the lacking of power do not seem to be correlated, and I never did reset my ecu and the install of the o2 sensor...idk if that could be that issue.
Also when i first start up my car the temp. guage will not work. It takes around 10 minutes for it to show any reading.
When i checked my cel today the codes are 1,17,and 41. 1 is for oxygen sensor...mine is brand new so idk what the problem problem would be there. 17 is for the vss or the vss circuit...my speedo seems to work right, as does my tach so idk what that prob could be. and 41 is for the heated oxygen sensor or heater circuit...could that be why my temp guage doesn't work right away?
I believe that is all, sorry for the book but i need help!
Does anyone have any idea what this problem could be? Is it all connected or do i have multiple problems? Any help will be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Modified by CivicVX94 at 3:24 PM 11/8/2005
OK i have a b18b1 with a gsr tranny in my 94 hatch and it seems to run/ pull pretty well for what it is, but i've been having some issues lately. It has quite a few problems, so please read and help if you can.
When i first finished the swap, about 2 months ago, my ignition timing was WAY off and every now and then when i would go to get on it, it would feel as if something was holding it back or i had a ton of weight in the car and other times it would not.
Well we messed with the timing numorous times and got it decent, then i got off my lazy *** and bought a timing gun. i like to think it's set right now, because it has felt alot better.
Well now it started to do it again (where it feels like it's holding back/lot o'extra weight). I have yet to check my timing with the gun, but i'd assume it would still be within specs. A friend said it could possibly be clogged injectors, so i bought some injector cleaner (can't remember the name off the top of my head) but that didn't help. This hesitation, or whatever you want to call it, only occurs from 1.5 to about 3.5k rpm. Yesterday i seafoamed it, changed my oil/filter, and spark plugs and it still has the hesitiatioin/idle issue. When i pulled out my plugs however, they were covered in oil so i obviously need a new vc gasket.
Maybe the little bit of oil getting on them is causing this stuff?
Is there any way to test the injectors if this is a possible problem?
Also on good days it idles right but on a bad one it will cold idle at 2k and drop to around 1.5to 1.6k, when warmed up. Not only that, but when in neutral and I give it a blip it will rev up and drop down to 1k then raise back up to 1.5ish k.
The check engine light used to be on, but it was for a bad 02 sensor so i replaced that and i still get a cel on occasion. The cel and the lacking of power do not seem to be correlated, and I never did reset my ecu and the install of the o2 sensor...idk if that could be that issue.
Also when i first start up my car the temp. guage will not work. It takes around 10 minutes for it to show any reading.
When i checked my cel today the codes are 1,17,and 41. 1 is for oxygen sensor...mine is brand new so idk what the problem problem would be there. 17 is for the vss or the vss circuit...my speedo seems to work right, as does my tach so idk what that prob could be. and 41 is for the heated oxygen sensor or heater circuit...could that be why my temp guage doesn't work right away?
I believe that is all, sorry for the book but i need help!
Does anyone have any idea what this problem could be? Is it all connected or do i have multiple problems? Any help will be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Modified by CivicVX94 at 3:24 PM 11/8/2005
well if the idle is goin up and down thats timing, maybe even timing belt a little off. my friends ls hatch has his engine light on about o2 sensor so i would worry about that cuz his car is fine and fuel injector cleaner wont do it, is alright but if a fuel injector is cloged its time to change. you should try to take the injectors off and take them somewhere to be tested.
Dude, it sounds like your car is a little sick.
First check the timming again just to make sure. I think the timming should be 16 degrees +/- 2 degrees.
As far as the fuel injectors go, you might want to change the fuel filter and check the fuel pump. You can check the resistance on each fuel injector with a multimeter. I can't remember the specs for resistance but a Helms manual will have them.
The idle problem could be a number of things. It could be a vacuumm leak or one of the different valves such as an IAC, FIT, or PCV. You may even want to check the idle adustment screw just for kicks.
You said your plugs were covered in oil which doesn't sound good. Does the engine smoke at all?
As far as the codes go, I would address each one, one at a time. Also I would go over all the wiring you did when you installed the engine, and check for any missing or loose connections.
Modified by Formula94 at 4:40 PM 11/8/2005
First check the timming again just to make sure. I think the timming should be 16 degrees +/- 2 degrees.
As far as the fuel injectors go, you might want to change the fuel filter and check the fuel pump. You can check the resistance on each fuel injector with a multimeter. I can't remember the specs for resistance but a Helms manual will have them.
The idle problem could be a number of things. It could be a vacuumm leak or one of the different valves such as an IAC, FIT, or PCV. You may even want to check the idle adustment screw just for kicks.
You said your plugs were covered in oil which doesn't sound good. Does the engine smoke at all?
As far as the codes go, I would address each one, one at a time. Also I would go over all the wiring you did when you installed the engine, and check for any missing or loose connections.
Modified by Formula94 at 4:40 PM 11/8/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC-2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well if the idle is goin up and down thats timing, maybe even timing belt a little off. my friends ls hatch has his engine light on about o2 sensor so i would worry about that cuz his car is fine and fuel injector cleaner wont do it, is alright but if a fuel injector is cloged its time to change. you should try to take the injectors off and take them somewhere to be tested.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Formula94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude, it sounds like your car is a little sick.
First check the timming again just to make sure. I think the timming should be 16 degrees +/- 2 degrees.
As far as the fuel injectors go, you might want to change the fuel filter and check the fuel pump. You can check the resistance on each fuel injector with a multimeter. I can't remember the specs for resistance but a Helms manual will have them.
The idle problem could be a number of things. It could be a vacuumm leak or one of the different valves such as an IAC, FIT, or PCV. You may even want to check the idle adustment screw just for kicks.
You said your plugs were covered in oil which doesn't sound good. Does the engine smoke at all?
As far as the codes go, I would address each one, one at a time. Also I would go over all the wiring you did when you installed the engine, and check for any missing or loose connections.
Modified by Formula94 at 4:40 PM 11/8/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll check my timing tomorrow, along with the cost for a fuel filter and pump. If they are within my funds I'll get those.
I have a helms and multimeter so I'll try to check the injector resistance along with the timing.
I don't think the idle issue would be a vaccuum leak because it's not consistant, a vaccuum leak would make it consistantly high I would think. I'll try to check the other things you listed, but I know it's not the idle adjustment screw b/c I already turned it all the way down.
No it doesn't smoke at all, I was told the oil on the plugs was b/c of a bad vc gasket and that it's nothing to worry about...I hope....
I'll also check for loose conections, but the wiring was the easiest part of the whole swap... my engine came with a complete harness, all I had to do was plug it all together with the chassis harness.
Thanks for all your help
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Formula94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude, it sounds like your car is a little sick.
First check the timming again just to make sure. I think the timming should be 16 degrees +/- 2 degrees.
As far as the fuel injectors go, you might want to change the fuel filter and check the fuel pump. You can check the resistance on each fuel injector with a multimeter. I can't remember the specs for resistance but a Helms manual will have them.
The idle problem could be a number of things. It could be a vacuumm leak or one of the different valves such as an IAC, FIT, or PCV. You may even want to check the idle adustment screw just for kicks.
You said your plugs were covered in oil which doesn't sound good. Does the engine smoke at all?
As far as the codes go, I would address each one, one at a time. Also I would go over all the wiring you did when you installed the engine, and check for any missing or loose connections.
Modified by Formula94 at 4:40 PM 11/8/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll check my timing tomorrow, along with the cost for a fuel filter and pump. If they are within my funds I'll get those.
I have a helms and multimeter so I'll try to check the injector resistance along with the timing.
I don't think the idle issue would be a vaccuum leak because it's not consistant, a vaccuum leak would make it consistantly high I would think. I'll try to check the other things you listed, but I know it's not the idle adjustment screw b/c I already turned it all the way down.
No it doesn't smoke at all, I was told the oil on the plugs was b/c of a bad vc gasket and that it's nothing to worry about...I hope....
I'll also check for loose conections, but the wiring was the easiest part of the whole swap... my engine came with a complete harness, all I had to do was plug it all together with the chassis harness.
Thanks for all your help
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicVX94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'll check my timing tomorrow, along with the cost for a fuel filter and pump. If they are within my funds I'll get those.
I have a helms and multimeter so I'll try to check the injector resistance along with the timing.
I don't think the idle issue would be a vaccuum leak because it's not consistant, a vaccuum leak would make it consistantly high I would think. I'll try to check the other things you listed, but I know it's not the idle adjustment screw b/c I already turned it all the way down.
No it doesn't smoke at all, I was told the oil on the plugs was b/c of a bad vc gasket and that it's nothing to worry about...I hope....
I'll also check for loose conections, but the wiring was the easiest part of the whole swap... my engine came with a complete harness, all I had to do was plug it all together with the chassis harness.
Thanks for all your help
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is the distributor still good? It sounds like your not getting enough sparks that's why it won't pull after 3.5k
I would check the distributor rotor/cap and change a new Vavle cover gasket and clean or change new spark plugs.
try to fix and clear the Vss code cuz the ECU might need some informations from engine load and speed to out put fuel and spark. Don't worry about the O2 sensor it doesn't cause this problem, you can fix it later.
I'll check my timing tomorrow, along with the cost for a fuel filter and pump. If they are within my funds I'll get those.
I have a helms and multimeter so I'll try to check the injector resistance along with the timing.
I don't think the idle issue would be a vaccuum leak because it's not consistant, a vaccuum leak would make it consistantly high I would think. I'll try to check the other things you listed, but I know it's not the idle adjustment screw b/c I already turned it all the way down.
No it doesn't smoke at all, I was told the oil on the plugs was b/c of a bad vc gasket and that it's nothing to worry about...I hope....
I'll also check for loose conections, but the wiring was the easiest part of the whole swap... my engine came with a complete harness, all I had to do was plug it all together with the chassis harness.
Thanks for all your help
</TD></TR></TABLE>Is the distributor still good? It sounds like your not getting enough sparks that's why it won't pull after 3.5k
I would check the distributor rotor/cap and change a new Vavle cover gasket and clean or change new spark plugs.
try to fix and clear the Vss code cuz the ECU might need some informations from engine load and speed to out put fuel and spark. Don't worry about the O2 sensor it doesn't cause this problem, you can fix it later.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eg6B18C1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Is the distributor still good? It sounds like your not getting enough sparks that's why it won't pull after 3.5k
I would check the distributor rotor/cap and change a new Vavle cover gasket and clean or change new spark plugs.
try to fix and clear the Vss code cuz the ECU might need some informations from engine load and speed to out put fuel and spark. Don't worry about the O2 sensor it doesn't cause this problem, you can fix it later. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I think that the distributer is still good...how can I check and see if it is or not?
But it will pull after 4kish, it just feels like it's literally be held back or weighed down before that sometimes. I doesn't do it everytime, only occassionally.
Do you have any idea what could cause the VSS code or what I should do to fix it? like i said my speedo, odo, and tach all work fine...or seemingly fine
And the O2 sensor code just bothers me because the thing is brand new...maybe it is defective?
Thanks for your help
Is the distributor still good? It sounds like your not getting enough sparks that's why it won't pull after 3.5k
I would check the distributor rotor/cap and change a new Vavle cover gasket and clean or change new spark plugs.
try to fix and clear the Vss code cuz the ECU might need some informations from engine load and speed to out put fuel and spark. Don't worry about the O2 sensor it doesn't cause this problem, you can fix it later. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I think that the distributer is still good...how can I check and see if it is or not?
But it will pull after 4kish, it just feels like it's literally be held back or weighed down before that sometimes. I doesn't do it everytime, only occassionally.
Do you have any idea what could cause the VSS code or what I should do to fix it? like i said my speedo, odo, and tach all work fine...or seemingly fine
And the O2 sensor code just bothers me because the thing is brand new...maybe it is defective?
Thanks for your help
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