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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 12:19 PM
  #1  
DarkBB4's Avatar
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From: San Diego CA
Default New Setup Questions

Alright well as Most of you know, (becuase my lame thread has been ttt recently).. My motor has lost compression in 1 cylinder (140)... and i did a wet compression test and it resulted good (no blown rings .. hopefully)...Anyways, I pickied upa new head and i will be doing a head swap (with abuilt one), change headgasket.. and POSSIBLY... cahnging the pistons (my buddy says u can do it when the motor is still in the car. and i have a few questions on the setup.

My motor has 134K on it. If i were to get new pistons (either OEM or TYPE S)... I should get brand new of course but is it worth it to get the type s's.. Where are places i can buy OEM pistons and OEM type s pistons and rods?

My setup (hopefully)
Type S pistons + new rods
JG engine dynamics head
Crower valvesprings + retainers
Upgraded Cams
adj cam gears
JUN flywheel
Exedy clutch
apexi intake
MR header with 2.25 collector
2.25 crush bent
2.36 rsr ex mag exhaust
NGK blues
Chipped P28 ( uberdata)


Hows that set up sound?

sohould i get a Higher compression headgasket? (Cometic?)

other things i should do when i do the headswap (besides timing belt, balance belt, water pump)
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 01:52 PM
  #2  
LudeyKrus's Avatar
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From: Flowery Branch, Ga
Default

You can, but unless you use OEM pistons and have a good cylinder wall left, I would pull the motor. I wouldn't feel bad about using OEM-style pistons and new rings w/o a hone, if the cylinder walls aren't scratched and they're spec'd out to get the right pistons.

To replace pistons w/ the motor still in the car: drop oil pan/windage tray/girld/mains, remove head. Unbolt rod caps from crank and rotate crank out of the way for each bore. Pull piston/rod out through top. Reinstall is the opposite.
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 01:56 PM
  #3  
SteveoBA8's Avatar
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From: Aspirating naturally, Kansas
Default Re: (LudeyKrus)

Balance shaft seal retainer.
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 03:25 PM
  #4  
BB4vTak's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2005
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From: Overland Park, Ks, usa
Default Re: (TheKingPin)

id imagine you would want the block to be honed at a machine shop.... where it would be fastened down. and done with a press... doing it by hand... i wouldnt try.. if you move slightly.. lean.. tip what ever.. the hone will be uneven and will most likely have sealing problems... not something i would try..
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 03:45 PM
  #5  
Niles's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Cleveland, OH, USA
Default Re: (TheKingPin)

Kingpin, if your cylinders are in good shape (bore roundness and taper) you can use a flex hone to touch up the cross hatching if you are just chaning to new pistons or rings. You shouldn't use a flex hone if your cylinders are out of round, need to be overbored even slightly, or are tapered and need to be re-machined.

For anyone thinking about it... I did the piston/rod swap with the engine still in the car on my first car, it was a major pain, if you're already pulling the pan, head, accessories etc, why not just rent or borrow lift for a couple days you'll have much more space, you'll work faster, and more accuratley, in the end its worth the 30 bucks. just a happy thought good luck!
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 04:10 PM
  #6  
The Weather Man's Avatar
 
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From: The Wizard Of Oz, State Rd 1505, Section 8
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.....yeah, I'll just go ahead and take the engine out. They're probably out of round anyway. Thanks for the info.

Edit: Ah ****, I'm sorry man. I didn't mean to thread jack. I'll delete my posts.
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 05:40 PM
  #7  
DarkBB4's Avatar
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From: San Diego CA
Default Re: (TheKingPin)

alright word.. ill just pull the whole engine.. get that **** hottanked
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